Husqvarna 181/281/288 Repair Thread.

[Frank bierce]

Love your builds!! Thanks for posting these!!

 

[Warped5]

Hey Joe -

(..... just because I notice STUFF)

In post #5, the bar mount area on the case is powder-coated. Do you plan to get this down to bare metal?

 

[Onan18]

Hey Joe -

(..... just because I notice STUFF)

In post #5, the bar mount area on the case is powder-coated. Do you plan to get this down to bare metal?

I had not planned on it, not sure it would make a difference?

 

[Onan18]

"You need a new clutch."


Old one...


New one.


Drum was pretty bad as well.


But we can fix that.

 

[Frank bierce]

That bad drum was groovy!!

 

[Onan18]

Spacer washer goes in first.


Then the worm gear, I like to put a little bit of grease in the bore of the gear. Worth noting is on this chassis the worm gear serves double duty as the dust shield, no separate part like on the 272.


Bearing in place...


Drum on, give the bearing a shot of grease.


And spin the clutch on.

 

[Onan18]

On this chassis the throttle stop mounts into the case.


Flywheel next, set the key in place.


Flywheel on, again I like to give it a good sharp tap with a persuador to seat it on the taper.


Washer and nut on.

 

[Onan18]

Carb was in surprisingly good shape.






Still getting a bath and a kit.


Here is what makes the 281/288 Carb special, there is a roller on the throttle shaft. No linkage or throttle cable, the trigger just has an arm on it that presses on the roller.

 

[Onan18]

The old cylinder was in pretty rough shape and since we were going this far he elected for a new top end.

 

[Onan18]

Lay the new base gasket down.

Oil up the piston pin and bearing, slide everything together.


Get the circlip seated.


More oil all over the piston and bore, drop the cylinder down.


Tighten the bolts in a cross pattern.

 

[Onan18]

Let's set the crankcase aside for now and work on the fuel tank.


Needs All new A/V mounts.


No problem.


Having the spanner makes this an easy job.


Done.

 

[Onan18]

The operator presence lever can be a little tricky.


New lever and spring.


Spring catches like so.


Slide the lever and spring in from the front.


Use an appropriate size punch or screwdriver to line up the holes, tap the pin back into place.


Done.

 

[rocketnorton]

Hey Joe -

(..... just because I notice STUFF)

In post #5, the bar mount area on the case is powder-coated. Do you plan to get this down to bare metal?

I was curious of same.

The operator presence lever can be a little tricky.

View attachment 97144
New lever and spring.

View attachment 97145
Spring catches like so.

View attachment 97146
Slide the lever and spring in from the front.

View attachment 97147
Use an appropriate size punch or screwdriver to line up the holes, tap the pin back into place.

View attachment 97148
Done.

that needs done on another 288 I recently acquired. curious on price on oe topend. runner pic'd earlier got raisman topend kit. blows bout 190.
new project has nice lookin ks top on it. no decomp. is '88 model. has metal cb paddle, too.

 

[Onan18]

I was curious of same.



that needs done on another 288 I recently acquired. curious on price on oe topend. runner pic'd earlier got raisman topend kit. blows bout 190.
new project has nice lookin ks top on it. no decomp. is '88 model. has metal cb paddle, too.

288 XP 54mm top end Husqvarna P/N: 544 22 31-02

Suggested Retail $202.99 as of 11/17/2017

 

[merc_man]

Let's set the crankcase aside for now and work on the fuel tank.

View attachment 97139
Needs All new A/V mounts.

View attachment 97141
No problem.

View attachment 97142
Having the spanner makes this an easy job.

View attachment 97143
Done.

Thats what the tool looks like for the av mounts. I made needle nose plyers work. Gonna have to invest in them. I got more to do.

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk

 

[merc_man]

You got a part number for that tool? I cant find anything on google for it.

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Stump Shot]

You're right Joe, the throttle arm is quite unique to this series of saw. One thing I do is check for full throttle operation after assembly. Seen a few that between wear and fatigue only about 3/4 throttle was being achieved. I corrected this by heating up the arm with a heat gun lightly and bending it downwards and let to cool. This seemed to do the trick for me and returned the saw to WOT operational.

 

[Stump Shot]

You got a part number for that tool? I cant find anything on google for it.

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk

502 50 66-02

 

[XP_Slinger]

You're right Joe, the throttle arm is quite unique to this series of saw. One thing I do is check for full throttle operation after assembly. Seen a few that between wear and fatigue only about 3/4 throttle was being achieved. I corrected this by heating up the arm with a heat gun lightly and bending it downwards and let to cool. This seemed to do the trick for me and returned the saw to WOT operational.

My 288 had that problem. Fixed as you described, works like a charm.

 

[TreeLife]

@rattler this makes me pant...