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Husky 350

tallgrass_coyote

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Can never have to many! the hard part is driving them all...
Truth. Sh!tdown and a warm fall has helped with that. Also allowed me to get rid of all those pesky CELs and a few gremlins. Average age is 2004 with a major outlier so that's saying something.
 

Shane¹

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To make sure I'm following, the jug is the cylinder, the sandwich is where the metal part of the crankcase meets the two plastic sides? I don't have specialty tools or even a compression tester. Was hoping to not tear down past the top end, but I get what your saying about air getting in. Might just throw a cheap Chinese top end and carb kit in it, increase my oil to fuel ratio, and see what happens. Best case scenario it runs. Worst case I paid $75 to learn a lot and am back in the same spot.

I worked that oem cylinder with some 150 and the plating is scored clean through. After reading a sampling the oil threads I'm convinced I should to go from 50:1 to 32:1, especially in this older saw. Wonder if that is what fried it.The last couple times Grandpa ran that saw was with my gas.
If you end up with an aftermarket top end go for the dukes 346 top end they are a pretty nice top end. You have to modify the riser for impulse and clearance the cooling fins on the case but definitely a way better option than other China junk. I have also used his seals before with no issues. If the riser has the coarse thread screws you may want to get the newer style with the fine thread screws but probably not necessary
 

Sloughfoot

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If you end up with an aftermarket top end go for the dukes 346 top end they are a pretty nice top end. You have to modify the riser for impulse and clearance the cooling fins on the case but definitely a way better option than other China junk. I have also used his seals before with no issues. If the riser has the coarse thread screws you may want to get the newer style with the fine thread screws but probably not necessary
This is what I'd get after figuring out what roasted it. Cheap and it should give it a lot more zip.
I would've built a 350 hybrid a long time ago if I'd known Duke's sold this.
 

Junk Meister

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When I joined, I was happy with my project 435, 271 and 261, then came along Homelites, McCullochs, Reed-Prentice, more Husqvarnas, a few Poulans...it happened all so fast!!
Won't take long and you'll be looking for places for the next hundred. Then the NEXT HUNDRED and you get the IDEAR.
 

hacskaroly

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Won't take long and you'll be looking for places for the next hundred. Then the NEXT HUNDRED and you get the IDEAR.
Space and $$ limit what I can horde, but I still get the occasional free saw people find in their garage and nobody wants.
 

cuinrearview

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To make sure I'm following, the jug is the cylinder, the sandwich is where the metal part of the crankcase meets the two plastic sides? I don't have specialty tools or even a compression tester. Was hoping to not tear down past the top end, but I get what your saying about air getting in. Might just throw a cheap Chinese top end and carb kit in it, increase my oil to fuel ratio, and see what happens. Best case scenario it runs. Worst case I paid $75 to learn a lot and am back in the same spot.

I worked that oem cylinder with some 150 and the plating is scored clean through. After reading a sampling the oil threads I'm convinced I should to go from 50:1 to 32:1, especially in this older saw. Wonder if that is what fried it.The last couple times Grandpa ran that saw was with my gas.
Jug is slang for cylinder.

The more I read, the more I think a Chinese top end is what you need. Good luck.
 
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