Husky 350 Question.......

[Mattyo]

My dads saw is doing the same exact thing right now....and its an air leak at the intake tract. I just haven't attempted to fix it yet. I dunno why an air leak would cause such an abberrant idle, but it does. I can't lean it out enough to get it to run right, it just loads up rich and wants to die.

try the carb cleaner thing when its running....spray right on the joint between the carb and the boot.

also, i've had 2 saws now that had 2 bad coils IN A ROW.... on the 3rd coil was the charm. VERY frustrating....and enough to want to throw the thing in the river for sure.

 

[JT78]

Been quite a few rounds with my 350 got it free a few years back and originally it had the wrong plug that fried the piston so put in an aftermarket one but since then bolts worked loose that hold the bearings and cyclinder base and the bearings were spinning in the case and melted the case. Had to replace the bearings, and case thought that would fix the issues but it didn't it still didn't want to idle right and would rev out correctly and was very sluggish with throttle response. Checked for air leaks there were none everything seemed to point to carb so I got a carb for the 359 type saw and it was like night and day but now wants to run lean could be the aftermarket Chinese carb I put on (first one was original carb) ended up having to adjust the metering lever on the Chinese aftermarket and now it runs much better it idles well revs well and tops out at 14 k but will not richen any more than that. Starting to think it's most 350 that have these problems. Mine is the 44 mm older version with the open port design. And yes it has the upgraded intake clamp and partition.

 

[JT78]

I never have changed the coil on mine tho.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I'll check into the intake area leak as mentioned.
I saw something suspicious there anyway.
Glad I painted the cylinder....like I always do.
The paint looked a tiny bit wet in one spot as if the intake was dribbling fuel.
If not painted, I would have never seen it.
But I discounted it as an airleak because of the fact that how rich it's running at such a leaner than normal L setting.
It's weird for sure

 

[paragonbuilder]

I'll check into the intake area leak as mentioned.
I saw something suspicious there anyway.
Glad I painted the cylinder....like I always do.
The paint looked a tiny bit wet in one spot as if the intake was dribbling fuel.
If not painted, I would have never seen it.
But I discounted it as an airleak because of the fact that how rich it's running at such a leaner than normal L setting.
It's weird for sure

The intakes in this series has been problematic for me too Jeremy. And tough to find [emoji35]


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[Adirondackstihl]

The intakes in this series has been problematic for me too Jeremy. And tough to find [emoji35]


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Well lucky for me, I have a spare intake boot set-up.
But the one that's on it checked out good.

Maybe I should put a thin film of Yamabond on the intake before installing the boot?
Anyway, this is gonna suck if that's the case.
Gotta remove the fackin cylinder to remove the boot.
Which means I'll have to clean the 518 off both surfaces now

 

[paragonbuilder]

Well lucky for me, I have a spare intake boot set-up.
But the one that's on it checked out good.

Maybe I should put a thin film of Yamabond on the intake before installing the boot?
Anyway, this is gonna suck if that's the case.
Gotta remove the fackin cylinder to remove the boot.
Which means I'll have to clean the 518 off both surfaces now

I started to do that, but I haven't seen it leak at the cylinder yet. The plastic intake to carb has been the issue. Seems it deforms a bit. I fixed a couple with a straight edge and file, but I'm using anaerobic on them now.


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[Adirondackstihl]

I started to do that, but I haven't seen it leak at the cylinder yet. The plastic intake to carb has been the issue. Seems it deforms a bit. I fixed a couple with a straight edge and file, but I'm using anaerobic on them now.


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Hmmmm
I'm cornfused
I'll need a pictorial please

 

[paragonbuilder]

My bad straight edge not needed. See the raised threads on the plastic flange.they are raised and keep the carb from seating. I think they pull into the screw hole on the carb, but then don't line up perfect when reassembled.


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[ABarrick]

I've found the sealing surface on the flanged portion of the boot, where it meets the carb body to be very troublesome on these. I've had several that look great but won't seal properly. I've had mixed results on honda bonding them too. Trimming away the plastic flange slightly has helped for me in the past if the boot is collapsed slightly. I like tinkering with this series saws but the impulse/intake boot setup is downright stupid. I've lost my cool many times on them.

Sidebar, do the magnets on the flywheel seem strong enough?

 

[Chainganger]

You also have to be careful when putting the boot onto the intake on the cylinder, if you push too hard onto the aluminum intake, and clamp it down, you deform the boot, you can see it when you look at it from the carb side of the boot, and, of course, that intake nipple has to be on just right. Now add in those fantastic boot clamps that give you a heart attack putting them on makes this challenging. (I have done 6 of these now, I am a glutton for punishment)

 

[Adirondackstihl]

You also have to be careful when putting the boot onto the intake on the cylinder, if you push too hard onto the aluminum intake, and clamp it down, you deform the boot, you can see it when you look at it from the carb side of the boot, and, of course, that intake nipple has to be on just right. Now add in those fantastic boot clamps that give you a heart attack putting them on makes this challenging. (I have done 6 of these now, I am a glutton for punishment)

I used an MS290/390 Intake clamp.
Worked very well.
Or so I think it did.

 

[blsnelling]

I used an MS290/390 Intake clamp.
Worked very well.
Or so I think it did.

I use a 390XP clamp.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Well.........
I press & vac tested it.
Held vacuum.
Had a VERY small leak down with pressure.
Soapy water revealed a small leak at the top of the intake horn.
Disassembled the saw. Cleaned up the 518.
And broke out the Yamabond.
Put a thin film around the intake horn and re-sealed the cylinder.
Re-assembled and now waiting for tomorrow.
Gonna mix up some RA (ditchin the bike oil) and try again.
Fingers crossed

 

[Dub11]

Well.........
I press & vac tested it.
Held vacuum.
Had a VERY small leak down with pressure.
Soapy water revealed a small leak at the top of the intake horn.
Disassembled the saw. Cleaned up the 518.
And broke out the Yamabond.
Put a thin film around the intake horn and re-sealed the cylinder.
Re-assembled and now waiting for tomorrow.
Gonna mix up some RA (ditchin the bike oil) and try again.
Fingers crossed

So would it be safe to say if rebuilding one of these saws to replace all plastic and rubber bits on the intake side?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

So would it be safe to say if rebuilding one of these saws to replace all plastic and rubber bits on the intake side?

Not always. Just inspect the pieces real well.
The holes in the plastic manifold for the carb bolts tend to strip out easily though.

I have been told by the owner of this saw that if it isn't running properly by Sunday, that I can sell it.
No questions asked.

I've got $140 in parts. If I can get that back + shipping, I'd be a happy guy.

 

[Dub11]

Not always. Just inspect the pieces real well.
The holes in the plastic manifold for the carb bolts tend to strip out easily though.

I have been told by the owner of this saw that if it isn't running properly by Sunday, that I can sell it.
No questions asked.

I've got $140 in parts. If I can get that back + shipping, I'd be a happy guy.

I imagine you can easily get that! And I was just bring up replacing those plastic parts think maybe heat has warped them

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I imagine you can easily get that! And I was just bring up replacing those plastic parts think maybe heat has warped them

The only thing that really warps is the plastic clamp.
There was a TSB issued back in 06' I believe.
They show a "fix" to the problem on existing units and upgraded the new production units.

 

[Dub11]

The only thing that really warps is the plastic clamp.
There was a TSB issued back in 06' I believe.
They show a "fix" to the problem on existing units and upgraded the new production units.

View attachment 80371

Thats how I picked up mone from another member here. He got it cheap them didn't want to fool with it then passed it along. Who ever had it stopped running it immediately cause the clamps cracked and still clean in side.

 

[Mattyo]

Leak at the air horn? On the filter side of the carb?

That wouldn't make a difference at all because it's the filter side of the carb.

But yes...let the anaerobic cure...if it's still doing it....hit it with carb cleaner while running.