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Husky 350 Question.......

Mattyo

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its very possible, BUT the seals are fine on one side... and both the seals reacted in the same exact way.... I think the side towards the riser was the side that reacted, but I don't know for sure.

its possible there was gap... and this is a heat issue... but I dunno. if the 1184 reacted with the rubber, then i'd be more likely to expect the reaction everywhere
 

jakethesnake

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I was going to try and fix my 345 up and make it into a 350, but I am having 2nd thoughts now. Maybe it just isn't worth it.
I gotta try and just fix that intake boot clamp. Saw runs fine otherwise. For a stock, OEM Clamshell.
Pretty confident you can put a 346xp top end on those 345s. If I'm correct a 346 will spank a 345.
 

paragonbuilder

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I should, but I just can't push myself to run it without fixing it. If it blows, I will be pissed at myself.

If it blows, it's the reason to upgrade to 346!
Run the hell out of it!!
Or drop it off and ill fix it for you.


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RI Chevy

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If it blows, it's the reason to upgrade to 346!
Run the hell out of it!!
Or drop it off and ill fix it for you.


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I may take you up on that offer. Just hate to do harm to a saw that I know needs just a little fix.

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RI Chevy

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346, Pro saw, 345, Homeowner saw. 346 magnesium, 345 plastic. Big differences there.


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paragonbuilder

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346, Pro saw, 345, Homeowner saw. 346 magnesium, 345 plastic. Big differences there.


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Nice thing about converting them is the plastic cases are lighter. They are more prone to heat damage, but a guy that pays attention to chain and tune should have no issues.


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RI Chevy

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Come on Jeremy. Let's get cracking!

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Tor R

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Tor R

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I was going to try and fix my 345 up and make it into a 350, but I am having 2nd thoughts now. Maybe it just isn't worth it.
I gotta try and just fix that intake boot clamp. Saw runs fine otherwise. For a stock, OEM Clamshell.
ummm, I'll take the 345 anyday, 2.2kw vs 2.3kw, they share the same issues anyway, 345 has also nice vibes, one of the best I've cut with from Husky
 

Tor R

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@Mattyo or anyone else.....

What is the proper procedure for changing bearing/seal on these things?
Installation is what I'm concerned about
i sand the bearing cup (try to make is with a flat surface), i sand the crankcase surface a tad also (to bring the friction up)
The sealant I use is Dow Corning 7091, # 503 26 72 01 if I remember correct. Other then the normal surface I also put sealant around in the corners of the bearing socket.
 

jakethesnake

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ummm, I'll take the 345 anyday, 2.2kw vs 2.3kw, they share the same issues anyway, 345 has also nice vibes, one of the best I've cut with from Husky
They are pretty good I use one for a day or two a year It's basically mine. The guy never uses it. Asks me to put a couple tank full through it just to keep everything limbered up.
 
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