How to get a chain razor sharp

[Thumper88]

So this is something I’ve always struggled with. I’m just not a good hand filer, and I struggle to find someone local who is and can help me take my sharpening to the next level. I do ok, and can make chips but I’ve always wanted to be able to sharpen a chain where it will take chunks, not chips. I’ve used the Pferd file guide for .404 on my .404 semi chisel and gotten decent results. Does anyone have any advice or wanna either post or link to a decent how to video? I can do monkey see monkey do if I can find a video that I know shows good technique. Thanks everyone


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Wilhelm]

For larger wood chips/chunks You may want to switch to full chisel, the nature of semi chisel limits the tooth from taking a big bite.
For me semi chisel chains are slow and unimpressive no matter how I sharpen them.

Then You may want to find a roller style filing guide to help You position the file.
I would like to suggest the Archer FastFiler filing jig, but it is not available in .404" pitch.
Maybe try the Husqvarna or Stihl ones.

You do not need to go square filed/ground to get a fast cutting chain.

Are You using any other chain pitches besides .404"?
If You do give the Archer FastFiler a try, it is easy to use and gets very good results.

 

[Thumper88]

For larger wood chips/chunks You may want to switch to full chisel, the nature of semi chisel limits the tooth from taking a big bite.
For me semi chisel chains are slow and unimpressive no matter how I sharpen them.

Then You may want to find a roller style filing guide to help You position the file.
I would like to suggest the Archer FastFiler filing jig, but it is not available in .404" pitch.
Maybe try the Husqvarna or Stihl ones.

You do not need to go square filed/ground to get a fast cutting chain.

Are You using any other chain pitches besides .404"?
If You do give the Archer FastFiler a try, it is easy to use and gets very good results.

I should have been more specific. I run 3/8 full chisel, Stihl 33RS on my 462 which is the saw that I do 90% of my cutting with. I run .404 semi on my 880 because most of my cutting with that saw is flushing off stumps. The Pferd guide for the .404 is identical to the Stihl guide. I’ll try the Archer fastfiler for my 3/8 chain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Wilhelm]

Give it a try, I love it and have all three pitches by now.

They aren't too expensive, 17-20$ depending where You get it from, package will include a round and a flat file.

I have a couple videos up on YouTube, saws running chisel chain filed with the FastFiler.

 

[Nutball]

So this is something I’ve always struggled with. I’m just not a good hand filer, and I struggle to find someone local who is and can help me take my sharpening to the next level. I do ok, and can make chips but I’ve always wanted to be able to sharpen a chain where it will take chunks, not chips. I’ve used the Pferd file guide for .404 on my .404 semi chisel and gotten decent results. Does anyone have any advice or wanna either post or link to a decent how to video? I can do monkey see monkey do if I can find a video that I know shows good technique. Thanks everyone


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can't say that I've seen a saw take chunks, but as for my saws, I prefer big chips over shavings (not dust). Just to make sure, you do know about depth gauge maintenance right? They need to be filed down just a little every few sharpenings, and if you are very experienced with handling kickback, and know well how to avoid and expect it, and rarely ever bore cut, most chains can afford to have the depth gauges filed a good bit when fresh out of the box especially on bigger saws. Just know such an aggressive chain is harder on the clutch/bearings.

The height of the depth gauge determines how thick of a chip of wood the tooth cuts. Relatively low depth gauges can help compensate for less than razor sharp chains, even dull chains, but that's just hard on everything cutting dull. I usually set mine once out of the box: 3 strokes of a flat file for depth gauges, just firm enough to cut the metal, and that lasts me a while.

As for getting the teeth razor sharp, saw teeth are kind of thick to be obviously "razor" sharp in my opinion. Just make sure no light reflects off of the edge radius (which should be non existent). You might have to clean a chrome burr off to check the edge. Just be extra careful when sharpening, try to keep all your angles precise. It is best to use some kind of file guide (I prefer the plate of metal that clamps onto the file) to keep the file from being too high or low.

 

[Wilhelm]

The 3/8" & .325" Archer FastFiler jigs position the file fairly low thus generating an aggressive beak, this makes for a decent bite of the chain.

Also, on a new chain the FastFiler sets the rakers fairly low additionally making the loop aggressive.

The FastFiler has roller guides to file the teeth and to set the rakers.

 

[Philbert]

The most important thing is understanding how a chain works: how changes in the top plate cutting edge, side plate cutting edge, depth gauge, gullet, etc., affect cutting. To get there, you have to file intentionally, to obtain specific angles, profiles, etc. That is different than just running the file across with some guide and taking what you get.

It takes some time, experience, and just a little bit of knowledge to gain skill at it. Sharp files really help (buy them by the dozen, and don't be afraid to 'retire' them when they stop cutting well).

I recommend using one of the clamp-on file guides, sold by Granberg, Oregon, STIHL, etc. These mount on your guide bar, and let you 'dial in' different angles, so that you know you are getting consistent, and accurate angles. Then you can compare which angles work best for you, by buying 3 chains, for example; sharpening each at a different set of angles; and comparing them side-by-side in the same wood to see what works best for you.

There are many versions, make sure that you get one that will also work with your larger pitch chains, e.g.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-MS...ar-Mount-replaces-Oregon-557849-/382933160756

Sometimes, the sharp, fine edges will dull faster too! Note that even 'razor sharp' chains will cut differently in different types of wood, dry versus green wood, and with different power saws. For example, you can lower the depth gauges more when cutting green spruce or pine, making bigger chunks, than you can cutting dry, aged, cherry or oak. (But no reason you can't have different chains for different cutting situations!).

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

Philbert

 

[angelo c]

The most important thing is understanding how a chain works: how changes in the top plate cutting edge, side plate cutting edge, depth gauge, gullet, etc., affect cutting. To get there, you have to file intentionally, to obtain specific angles, profiles, etc. That is different than just running the file across with some guide and taking what you get.

It takes some time, experience, and just a little bit of knowledge to gain skill at it. Sharp files really help (buy them by the dozen, and don't be afraid to 'retire' them when they stop cutting well).

I recommend using one of the clamp-on file guides, sold by Granberg, Oregon, STIHL, etc. These mount on your guide bar, and let you 'dial in' different angles, so that you know you are getting consistent, and accurate angles. Then you can compare which angles work best for you, by buying 3 chains, for example; sharpening each at a different set of angles; and comparing them side-by-side in the same wood to see what works best for you.

There are many versions, make sure that you get one that will also work with your larger pitch chains, e.g.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-MS...ar-Mount-replaces-Oregon-557849-/382933160756

Sometimes, the sharp, fine edges will dull faster too! Note that even 'razor sharp' chains will cut differently in different types of wood, dry versus green wood, and with different power saws. For example, you can lower the depth gauges more when cutting green spruce or pine, making bigger chunks, than you can cutting dry, aged, cherry or oak. (But no reason you can't have different chains for different cutting situations!).

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

Philbert

+ 2 on the "fresh file" comment... the best thing to learn is when a file is dull it dont really "sharpen" anything

 

[Lightning Performance]

Maybe a simple bar mount file guide will help your hand learn to move on a straight plain. It took me years to develop a true even stroke of the file... repeatable and consistent. I have many different file holders and handles. Just watching your arm does help. Eventually you feel what the file is doing. It's like mig welding with your eyes closed ;-)

 

[huskyboy]

A filing jig helped me learn proper angle and position when I was first starting out. Once you learn proper positioning from a filing jig... you’ll toss it in favor of freehand filing and get even better results. A progressive raker gauge is something I highly recommend to get, it will keep your chains cutting straight even when they get worn down. It sets the raker to each specific tooth.

 

[rogue60]

I don't think anyone is getting razer sharp anything with a grinder or file? Sharp yes but razer sharp? meh not really....
Myself I found a profiled finishing stone gets a chain's cutter close to razer sharp still experimenting with it but yeah tis sharp if razer sharp kind of stuff is what someone is looking for?
Pic just for reference I've not sharpened that chain in the pic just showing how the stone fits the profile of the tooth of round filed cutters.
You get a better edge with a square file if going for square than you do with a round file going for round filed IMHO..

 

[CR888]

Yeah you'll never get anything close to 'razor' sharp with a relatively coarse saw file lol. But you don't need that kind of sharpness to have a great performing chain. I've got ax's to razor sharpness where they'll shave the hair off your arm much better than a razor, but it takes work & grit sizes right down to 3-5000 to get there. Often when the term 'razor sharp' gets tossed around in regards to saw chain, it's done so as many don't appreciate how sharp a razor is.

 

[Wolverine]

I can produce razor sharp results with the Timberline jig. It leaves an almost stropped finish too. Square filing also produces shave sharp cutters.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Is anyone using rotary sharpening with diamond burrs?

 

[Lightning Performance]

Maybe a simple bar mount file guide will help your hand learn to move on a straight plain. It took me years to develop a true even stroke of the file... repeatable and consistent. I have many different file holders and handles. Just watching your arm does help. Eventually you feel what the file is doing. It's like mig welding with your eyes closed ;-)

Good answer lol

 

[Philbert]

There are 'coarse' and 'fine' chainsaw files. There are a range of grits for chainsaw grinding wheels.

As noted above, a mirror finish has limited practical value when each cutter is slamming into tree bark 20 times per second.

But you can still work on faster cutting chai, and getting larger chips (especially in soft wood), by following the other comments in this thread.

Philbert

 

[rogue60]

Is anyone using rotary sharpening with diamond burrs?

I think most of us are past the beginners class? rotary tool omg! Lol

 

[rogue60]

There are 'coarse' and 'fine' chainsaw files. There are a range of grits for chainsaw grinding wheels.

As noted above, a mirror finish has limited practical value when each cutter is slamming into tree bark 20 times per second.

But you can still work on faster cutting chai, and getting larger chips (especially in soft wood), by following the other comments in this thread.

Philbert

My case was for play chain few cuts that's it. Hopefully not taken out of context?

 

[Philbert]

My case was for play chain few cuts that's it. Hopefully not taken out of context?

Some folks don't realize they have options with files and grinding wheels, so I just wanted to bring that to the discussion. The 'standard' files and wheels are acceptable for most users, so that is what we see.

Philbert

 

[Nutball]

Oh and a pic of my Razer sharp chain..

View attachment 247554

You files both sides? I don't see the chrome top plate!