High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

how about a Oklahoma,AR,MO,KS,TX,+IA GTG thread?

Workshop

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What should be a simple brake job has got me stumped. Aggravating because I've done numerous brake jobs in the past with no problems. 1990 F250 4x4. The rear drum wont go over the new shoes unless forced. I knew better than to force it but did it anyway. Get it up to 20mph and put in neutral and the excessive drag from that one drum brings it to a halt in 50 feet or so. The parking brake cable isnt sticking, drum isnt out-of-round, the ratcheting adjuster is threaded as short as it will go. Am I missing something obvious or could the new pads be too thick? The new ratcheting adjuster matches the old one. Somehow, I think the answer has something to do with that adjuster....

I've seen this a fair number of times. The emergency brake strut bar that runs between the front and rear shoes is activated by the emergency brake lever bar that's hooked to the emergency brake cable.
Try this. Where the cable connects to the operating lever, leave the cable attached and smack the lever, where the cable attaches, with a hammer and punch. I know you said the emergency is releasing, but it not releasing all the way. You can verify this by looking where the top of the shoes rest against the pin. If one shoe or the other is even slightly away from the top pin you won't get the drum on.
 

Hinerman

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Hinerman

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I've seen this a fair number of times. The emergency brake strut bar that runs between the front and rear shoes is activated by the emergency brake lever bar that's hooked to the emergency brake cable.
Try this. Where the cable connects to the operating lever, leave the cable attached and smack the lever, where the cable attaches, with a hammer and punch. I know you said the emergency is releasing, but it not releasing all the way. You can verify this by looking where the top of the shoes rest against the pin. If one shoe or the other is even slightly away from the top pin you won't get the drum on.

I knew you would know...
 

sawnami

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Good morning!
Went to an auction yesterday that was like stepping back in time. A machine shop that did a lot of heavy work back in the day.
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sawnami

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Anything interesting there?
Everywhere that you looked there was something interesting.
4 large business buildings on the main street of the town full to the brim.
I'm headed there today for day two.
The only down point is a fair portion of the items would need a forklift and heavy trailer to move and transport them.
I couldn't count how many power generators that are there. A lot are military surplus and pretty large.
The auctioneer said that he was going to have a 4-5 day auction at the same person's residence in the spring!
 

Hinerman

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Wind howling again! At least the leaves are getting gone!

Yes, I know, they (your leaves) are now on my front porch and in my flower beds, under my car hood, filling my garage, piling up on the fence...Wisconsin gets snow drifts, we get leaf drifts, LOL. I saw 2 neighbors vacuuming leaves yesterday, and the worst is yet to come.
 

Louie B

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Yes, I know, they (your leaves) are now on my front porch and in my flower beds, under my car hood, filling my garage, piling up on the fence...Wisconsin gets snow drifts, we get leaf drifts, LOL. I saw 2 neighbors vacuuming leaves yesterday, and the worst is yet to come.

Ahh
The hardships of suburbia
 

BrettL

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I've seen this a fair number of times. The emergency brake strut bar that runs between the front and rear shoes is activated by the emergency brake lever bar that's hooked to the emergency brake cable.
Try this. Where the cable connects to the operating lever, leave the cable attached and smack the lever, where the cable attaches, with a hammer and punch. I know you said the emergency is releasing, but it not releasing all the way. You can verify this by looking where the top of the shoes rest against the pin. If one shoe or the other is even slightly away from the top pin you won't get the drum on.

Good afternoon y'all. Thank you for the input!

Both shoes are tight against that top pin. The big lever is loose. After taking the drum off, I can see that only the upper third of the shoes are making contact. I'm not sure what to make of that. It's really got me stumped. :BangHead:
 

Louie B

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I ran into that with a four-wheeler recently. I had to time the shoes correctly front and back inside and out to get them to be concentric to the hub and all of the holes to line up
 

JimBear

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Anything interesting there?
That great big cutter is pretty interesting, I thought it was a drill bit at first glance. I’m not sure the Bridgeport DX’s I used to run or the Bridgeport lays thru had would have snort to do much with that. We didn’t have a horizontal mill.
 

67L36Driver

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Good afternoon y'all. Thank you for the input!

Both shoes are tight against that top pin. The big lever is loose. After taking the drum off, I can see that only the upper third of the shoes are making contact. I'm not sure what to make of that. It's really got me stumped. :BangHead:

Upper third making contact?

The anchor pin at top of the backing plate needs adjusted down.

Loosen the big nut so the pin floats around. Adjust the shoes to make hard contact with the drum and then tighten the big nut. This centers the shoe assembly. Then back off the adjuster.

Just did this on a set of F100 brakes on my ‘40 Ford.
 
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