Jetmd
Here For The Long Haul!
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- Jan 20, 2016
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Nope
It appears to be a bolt through a bronze sleeve that can be lubed. Interesting.Ask and sometimes you receive Matt,
https://www.bustedknuckleoffroad.co...KIT-Ford-91-04-Super-Duty-Dana-60-9904BJE.htm
Looks like we’ll need 2!!
Although 203 seems high for those.
A historical event that happened in my yard? Hard to forget lolYou have a very good memory.
The AM that are greasable have been the best for us. We’ve never really had issues with them after putting them in as long as you grease them at service. Mine 99 has 250,000 on it and I’ve only put 1 set on it and 1 motorcraft stat. But the stat does need replaced now. We gave up on AM thermostats and glow plugs. Either goto Navistar or specify Mororcraft at your parts place, that goes for most of the electronic parts: ICP,IPR, and such. With having 4 7.3 E’s and 1 7.3 IDI yet we’ve pretty much figured out what’s good and what’s not. They all have quite a few miles on them and get used! No pavement queens here.What’s the fun in that?
I just been putting a feed bag between the brush guard and radiator.. lol
I do like Chet’s Idea of the “if ya gonna replace it, go with something better”. There are some real good aftermarket bells and whistles available for the 7.3’s.
Not sure if there are and aftermarket ball joints that are better than Ford OEM though. Surely someone has made a better mousetrap by now.
Have you ever had the radio not work and the windows not roll down when first started, only to come back on in a couple minutes?The AM that are greasable have been the best for us. We’ve never really had issues with them after putting them in as long as you grease them at service. Mine 99 has 250,000 on it and I’ve only put 1 set on it and 1 motorcraft stat. But the stat does need replaced now. We gave up on AM thermostats and glow plugs. Either goto Navistar or specify Mororcraft at your parts place, that goes for most of the electronic parts: ICP,IPR, and such. With having 4 7.3 E’s and 1 7.3 IDI yet we’ve pretty much figured out what’s good and what’s not. They all have quite a few miles on them and get used! No pavement queens here.
Have you ever had the radio not work and the windows not roll down when first started, only to come back on in a couple minutes?
And also, is there a superior alternator someone can get for those?
02What year is it Matt?
May be CAN bus. If so, it may be dropping comms due to voltage droops/spikes.
Bad grounds could sure mess with it as well.
I’ve even had the radio turn on and the volume cranks it’s self all the way up on its own... lolWhat year is it Matt?
May be CAN bus. If so, it may be dropping comms due to voltage droops/spikes.
Bad grounds could sure mess with it as well.
Several higher output Alternators are available online. My son's little Bronco came with a 70 or 75 amp factory. He found a 200 online in the same frame size. There's a place in Spfd that can rebuild them and boost the amp out put.Have you ever had the radio not work and the windows not roll down when first started, only to come back on in a couple minutes?
And also, is there a superior alternator someone can get for those?
Actually Tim’s 02 is doing that, haven’t investigated it yet. It’s not very constant or have any pattern of any sort either. My experience with alternator issues is either it’s too small or improper voltage to it: IE bad connections. I had mine turned into a 180 amp by the motor shop. I run a power inverter with going to tractor pulls to plug the tractor in going to the pulls. That’s going on 8 years now and is still working. I ran another 8 gauge battery power wire to along with the factory wireHave you ever had the radio not work and the windows not roll down when first started, only to come back on in a couple minutes?
And also, is there a superior alternator someone can get for those?