HOMELITE Homelite Thread

[edju1958]

If you ever need one I have a scored 254 and a 251 both that have good spark.

Funny,I was just thinking about my other 254 that may need a module.I'll have to dig it out,but I can't do much yet due to having a knuckle replacement & waiting for it to heal.

 

[fossil]

I have a Super XL on the bench with a blue coil, and naturally there is no spark.

View attachment 471303

View attachment 471304

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I will leave this coil in the oven overnight (185° F) and see what happens. Assuming that does not help, has anyone tried any of the aftermarket coils?

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Pardon Our Interruption...

Thanks for your input.

Mark

If it keeps failing you can use a Husky 154/ 254, 51, 55 and others coil. I used a coil that the cow gave me that was from amazon. Works well.

Definitely not a straight drop in. If you can get the Homelite armature into the Husky or Chinese Clone coil. you should be good to go. Works on Pioneer Farmsaws as well.

 

[heimannm]

XL12 went through the shop this week, customer said hard to start and would not hold a tune. It only had 120 PSI compression and while it passed pressure test, vacuum failed. I was able to replace the crank seals, rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the fuel line & fuel filter, cleaned and gapped the points (or so I thought), replace the resistor plug with the proper CJ8. I was excited to hear it run but alas, not even a solid pop.

I removed the carburetor to see if perhaps there was an issue with the reed valve, gave it a tiny sip of fuel and it acted like a timing issue.

I removed the flywheel (again) and rechecked the points with a more appropriate width feeler gauge and low and behold the gap was well in excess of .020" when it should be 0.015". Reset the gap correctly and the saw ran flawlessly.







Mark

 

[Partner]

Cool levers for sealants

 

[heimannm]

The Lisle tool is quite handy, but on a small seal like these I had to use the modified screwdriver first to create a little clearance for the hook on the puller.

58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller

Removes Cam Shaft and Crank Shaft Seals Without Damage to the Shaft.

www.lislecorp.com

They even offer replacement hooks for the ones that get bent, damaged, broken, or otherwise modified.

58500 Hook

Hook

www.lislecorp.com

Mark

 

[Partner]

It's worth buying a good hook and you can handle the rest

 

[Maintenance Chief]

XL12 went through the shop this week, customer said hard to start and would not hold a tune. It only had 120 PSI compression and while it passed pressure test, vacuum failed. I was able to replace the crank seals, rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the fuel line & fuel filter, cleaned and gapped the points (or so I thought), replace the resistor plug with the proper CJ8. I was excited to hear it run but alas, not even a solid pop.

I removed the carburetor to see if perhaps there was an issue with the reed valve, gave it a tiny sip of fuel and it acted like a timing issue.

I removed the flywheel (again) and rechecked the points with a more appropriate width feeler gauge and low and behold the gap was well in excess of .020" when it should be 0.015". Reset the gap correctly and the saw ran flawlessly.

View attachment 471538

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View attachment 471541

Mark

The paint on the old blue XL-12s seems to hold up pretty good. I've got one in similar condition and a first year Super without the thumb pumper.

 

[hacskaroly]

The paint on the old blue XL-12s seems to hold up pretty good. I've got one in similar condition and a first year Super without the thumb pumper.

Yeah, the blue paint on my Super XL is still in great shape!

 

[Al Smith]

I had a similar situation on an electronic ignition module (that's the proper term,not a coil) .

Coil.module ,everybody knows what it is what .Kind of like a Crescent wrench instead of adjustable open end wrench .-or Vise grips instead of adjustable locking pliers .

 

[JIMG]

An ez super from a recent haul of homelites. Nice little limber.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

An ez super from a recent haul of homelites. Nice little limber.View attachment 471731

Super e-z’s are a nice little saw and actually are fairly smooth for a non av saw

 

[They call me Mr. Kibbs]

Was 'gifted' a C-7 Convertible Drive by a retired sitework contractor down the road, in fairly good shape for age and use. Fully cleaned and rebuilt the Tilly HL141A carb, new fuel filter and fuel line thru the air box. Runs OK, idles fairly well and revs just fine (full disclosure, this after I swapped the high and lo needles back to their correct positions...Dumbarse got them mixed up at re-install after rebuild..boy they flood fast that way!).
Problem is the idle varies high to low after about a minute, and it'll stall when rotated side-to-side at idle. First I thought seals may be shot, but I would have thought the idle speed would increase with a lean air leak. Any ideas before I go thru the exercise of finding and replacing the seals? I do not have a lot of experience with the HL carbs...big dang things though!

Edited for typo, HL141A carb...fat fingers...

 

[LAWN BOY]

Was 'gifted' a C-7 Convertible Drive by a retired sitework contractor down the road, in fairly good shape for age and use. Fully cleaned and rebuilt the Tilly HL141A carb, new fuel filter and fuel line thru the air box. Runs OK, idles fairly well and revs just fine (full disclosure, this after I swapped the high and lo needles back to their correct positions...Dumbarse got them mixed up at re-install after rebuild..boy they flood fast that way!).
Problem is the idle varies high to low after about a minute, and it'll stall when rotated side-to-side at idle. First I thought seals may be shot, but I would have thought the idle speed would increase with a lean air leak. Any ideas before I go thru the exercise of finding and replacing the seals? I do not have a lot of experience with the HL carbs...big dang things though!

Edited for typo, HL141A carb...fat fingers...

I got my convertible drive c7 homelite from a retired man as well for free.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Was 'gifted' a C-7 Convertible Drive by a retired sitework contractor down the road, in fairly good shape for age and use. Fully cleaned and rebuilt the Tilly HL141A carb, new fuel filter and fuel line thru the air box. Runs OK, idles fairly well and revs just fine (full disclosure, this after I swapped the high and lo needles back to their correct positions...Dumbarse got them mixed up at re-install after rebuild..boy they flood fast that way!).
Problem is the idle varies high to low after about a minute, and it'll stall when rotated side-to-side at idle. First I thought seals may be shot, but I would have thought the idle speed would increase with a lean air leak. Any ideas before I go thru the exercise of finding and replacing the seals? I do not have a lot of experience with the HL carbs...big dang things though!

Edited for typo, HL141A carb...fat fingers...

Definitely can still be seals and I would replace them anyway, seals leak air then can seal up somewhat because of the oil from mix temporarily helps seal the gap on a stiff seal ect so idle will go high and low at times

 

[heimannm]

Some of the older saws had trouble with fuel "pooling" at idle, when enough collected they would eventually flood out and die. Running the idle mixture a bit leaner can help, but in many cases it is inherent to the design. I know that McCulloch added features on later models of the front tank saws in particular to help deal with those kinds of issues.

Mark

 

[They call me Mr. Kibbs]

Definitely can still be seals and I would replace them anyway, seals leak air then can seal up somewhat because of the oil from mix temporarily helps seal the gap on a stiff seal ect so idle will go high and low at times

Appreciate the info, and will start looking into sourcing the seals, thanks.

 

[They call me Mr. Kibbs]

Some of the older saws had trouble with fuel "pooling" at idle, when enough collected they would eventually flood out and die. Running the idle mixture a bit leaner can help, but in many cases it is inherent to the design. I know that McCulloch added features on later models of the front tank saws in particular to help deal with those kinds of issues.

Mark

Good to know Mark, thanks. If I can make some time this weekend may play around with the mixtures before ordering seals.

Also will let it idle for a bit longer on its own. I had the carb and reed valve block off it for a couple weeks in an unconditioned garage while waiting to rebuild the carb, and had squirted some oil into the bottom end to keep it from rusting in the mean time. Wiped out what I could before re-assembling but perhaps that needs a little more 'cooking off' (dunno?)

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Good to know Mark, thanks. If I can make some time this weekend may play around with the mixtures before ordering seals.

Also will let it idle for a bit longer on its own. I had the carb and reed valve block off it for a couple weeks in an unconditioned garage while waiting to rebuild the carb, and had squirted some oil into the bottom end to keep it from rusting in the mean time. Wiped out what I could before re-assembling but perhaps that needs a little more 'cooking off' (dunno?)

Here’s a kit with reed gaskets and everything

 

[They call me Mr. Kibbs]

Here’s a kit with reed gaskets and everything

Thanks again, I'd seen that LRB kit. Interestingly enough, the carb rebuild kit I bought off ebay (Marine Specialties or something similar) had the reed gaskets & carb gaskets in addition to ALL the carb parts. Even sent o-rings for the Hi/Lo needles in case the packings were too far gone, prob the best carb kit I've ever purchased!

I did find that LRB has a set of only the crank seals on ebay as well, might try to find x-refs to SKF.