HOMELITE Homelite Thread

[Al Smith]

From Homelite to Husqvarna to cherry trees now back to carbs .I looked up what I bought to fix that screwed up Tilly HS .It was listed as a Tillotson HS 228 clone for the 281 288 Husky . Like I said I had to swap the throttle shaft with the one from the original .It cost me $27.25 plus tax ,shipping free .

 

[They call me Mr. Kibbs]

From Homelite to Husqvarna to cherry trees now back to carbs .I looked up what I bought to fix that screwed up Tilly HS .It was listed as a Tillotson HS 228 clone for the 281 288 Husky . Like I said I had to swap the throttle shaft with the one from the original .It cost me $27.25 plus tax ,shipping free .

As long as we're back on carbs, I did take a minute last night to take pics of the HS that came out of the SXL 925. First pic shows the brass H insert as well as another orifice in the well for the H circuit. Wondering why there is no hole in the well for the L jet?
Second shows the brass governor. After the pic I was able to get it out (and also smooth file my previous slot damage). Is the ball in this thing supposed to move freely when it's out of the carb body? This one does not currently move freely. I think Al said it opened at a certain resonance, does that mean there is a spring in there as well?

 

[fossil]

As long as we're back on carbs, I did take a minute last night to take pics of the HS that came out of the SXL 925. First pic shows the brass H insert as well as another orifice in the well for the H circuit. Wondering why there is no hole in the well for the L jet?
Second shows the brass governor. After the pic I was able to get it out (and also smooth file my previous slot damage). Is the ball in this thing supposed to move freely when it's out of the carb body? This one does not currently move freely. I think Al said it opened at a certain resonance, does that mean there is a spring in there as well?
View attachment 434827View attachment 434828

There is a spring in the governor.

 

[RonaldT]

Picked up this 1956 time capsule a couple weeks ago. It was used but not much.

 

[RonaldT]

Picked up this 1956 time capsule a couple weeks ago. It was used but not much.

 

[Oletrapper]

Good morning all, first post here. I am working on a Homelite Super XL 925 and would like to know if anyone has successfully repaired a striped muffler bolt hole? If there is someone, how did you repair it? Of the three on the saw, the top one that I am working on is striped out. It's a 3" 1/4 20 bolt and there are 3 turns remaining before the bolt bottoms out in the saw body with the muffler off. Muffler on, the bolt will not catch those remaining threads. I don't believe there is enough material on the saw body to use a heli-coil. Any suggestions would be kindly appreciated. I'll try to post some pics later on. Thanks in advance, OT

 

[hacskaroly]

Any suggestions would be kindly appreciated. I'll try to post some pics later on.

Pics will definitely help out...because it's a chainsaw

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Good morning all, first post here. I am working on a Homelite Super XL 925 and would like to know if anyone has successfully repaired a striped muffler bolt hole? If there is someone, how did you repair it? Of the three on the saw, the top one that I am working on is striped out. It's a 3" 1/4 20 bolt and there are 3 turns remaining before the bolt bottoms out in the saw body with the muffler off. Muffler on, the bolt will not catch those remaining threads. I don't believe there is enough material on the saw body to use a heli-coil. Any suggestions would be kindly appreciated. I'll try to post some pics later on. Thanks in advance, OT

Heilicoils require very little extra material since it’s basically a wire, thread certs take more material but are preferred. Otherwise there’s always welding and redrill/tap.

 

[davidwyby]

Good morning all, first post here. I am working on a Homelite Super XL 925 and would like to know if anyone has successfully repaired a striped muffler bolt hole? If there is someone, how did you repair it? Of the three on the saw, the top one that I am working on is striped out. It's a 3" 1/4 20 bolt and there are 3 turns remaining before the bolt bottoms out in the saw body with the muffler off. Muffler on, the bolt will not catch those remaining threads. I don't believe there is enough material on the saw body to use a heli-coil. Any suggestions would be kindly appreciated. I'll try to post some pics later on. Thanks in advance, OT

Stuff steel wool in to the side of the hole and thread er in

 

[Oletrapper]

Heilicoils require very little extra material since it’s basically a wire, thread certs take more material but are preferred. Otherwise there’s always welding and redrill/tap.

The cylinder is aluminum and would have to be heliarc welded. Very little room, in my opinion, to do that. Thanks for the thought though. Presently, I am looking into the heli-coil option. Striped hole photo coming shortly. OT

 

[Oletrapper]

Stuff steel wool in to the side of the hole and thread er in

That would certainly be an option but I personally don't believe that would hold up very long. Steel wool oxidizes fairly quick and probably even quicker with the heat involved considering the location. Thanks for the idea though. OT

 

[Oletrapper]

Pics will definitely help out...because it's a chainsaw

Pic of the needed repair area. Upper hole is striped out. The bolt is a 1/4 20 3" long. I am looking into the heli-coil option and also drilling out and tapping to 5/16th. Still undecided at this point.

As I may have mentioned earlier, this a 1977 Homelite Super XL 925 in mint condition with very little use by the original owner.
The worst thing they did was use used motor oil for the chain lube. What a mess. It has cleaned up nicely though.

 

[mirage]

Can you tap it in metric. Maybe you could use the hole as it is.

 

[hacskaroly]

The worst thing they did was use used motor oil for the chain lube. What a mess.

Better than used transmission fluid, that stuff just reeks!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Pic of the needed repair area.

That looks like plenty of material for a helicoil. Get a 1/4-20 kit from EZ-Loc or whoever and be done with it. Just don't over size the drill bit for the tap if one isn't included with the kit.

Worst case would be JB-Weld, re-tap, hold your breath that it holds, though it can be aluminum welded and re-tapped by the right guy and method..

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Pic of the needed repair area. Upper hole is striped out. The bolt is a 1/4 20 3" long. I am looking into the heli-coil option and also drilling out and tapping to 5/16th. Still undecided at this point.
View attachment 438492
As I may have mentioned earlier, this a 1977 Homelite Super XL 925 in mint condition with very little use by the original owner.
The worst thing they did was use used motor oil for the chain lube. What a mess. It has cleaned up nicely though.

Looks like plenty for an actual thread cert even, drill and tap use red high temp loctite on it and it will last. If you do break through slightly on exhaust port side I thing a thread cert will still he fine

 

[Loony661]

Heli-coil all day long on that hole. Get the right kit (most auto parts stores have them) with the included drill bit and go to work.. A heli-coil is always stronger than the original thread, when done correctly.

 

[Oletrapper]

That looks like plenty of material for a helicoil. Get a 1/4-20 kit from EZ-Loc or whoever and be done with it. Just don't over size the drill bit for the tap if one isn't included with the kit.

Worst case would be JB-Weld, re-tap, hold your breath that it holds, though it can be aluminum welded and re-tapped by the right guy and method..

"the right guy" No disrespect to anyone but, you gotta remember where I live. lmao OT

 

[Oletrapper]

Heli-coil all day long on that hole. Get the right kit (most auto parts stores have them) with the included drill bit and go to work.. A heli-coil is always stronger than the original thread, when done correctly.

Loony661, The picture really doesn't give a true perspective of the small area being worked on. The distance from the bottom of the upper hole and the exhaust throat is only about 1/16". 1/8" max. That area is my main concern. The throat is tapered inward towards the cylinder and piston from that point so there is more metal the deeper the drill bit goes. Just trying to prevent creating a "HOT" spot from the exhaust gases. I have ordered a heli-coil kit that comes with everything needed and also a 5/16 24 tap with "I" bit and some 3" 5/16 24 bolts. Once everything arrives, I will determine which way I will go. I'll put up some pics as progress continues. Thanks for your reply. OT

 

[Oletrapper]

As long as we're back on carbs, I did take a minute last night to take pics of the HS that came out of the SXL 925. First pic shows the brass H insert as well as another orifice in the well for the H circuit. Wondering why there is no hole in the well for the L jet?
Second shows the brass governor. After the pic I was able to get it out (and also smooth file my previous slot damage). Is the ball in this thing supposed to move freely when it's out of the carb body? This one does not currently move freely. I think Al said it opened at a certain resonance, does that mean there is a spring in there as well?
View attachment 434827View attachment 434828

Not sure but I believe the hole for the L jet is under the welch plug. Mine had 3 holes in there. jmho OT