HOMELITE Homelite Thread

[Al Smith]

I would think if it was a points type ignition it should not make a difference but if it were a solid state trigger device it would .Because of the use of a thyrister type of trigger which would require the correct polarity .
With a points type the primary of the coil of the modual is pulsating DC or only one half of a sine wave .So it would not make a difference weather it were positive or negative relative to the ground potential .

 

[KYsawman]

Trying to revive a few little xl's, etc.

Are the early Super2 points flywheels compatible with a later electronic coil if I wanted to convert?

I have an early xl if you need parts, it is complete and looks in decent shape yours for the ride. Still has factory 10 or 12” bar on it.

 

[sawnami]

The points-style rotor lacks the trigger magnet for the electronic coil.

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[PogoInTheWoods]

Gotcha. Thank you.

 

[Dream]

Sometimes you gets lucky.
With me it was NOT getting lucky that got me back into this mess.
My dad gave me what I thought was a mag cased XL2 for a Christmas present in 2018.
He thought it ran fine.
I saw that it didn't idle right and the chain kept turning the whole time.
Found that the clutch bearing seized at some point and ruined the crank. Also found out after that that the engine had been upgraded at some point to a Super2.
So, long story short, I poured a lot of money into a saw that is "slightly" upgraded from a 29 cc to a 32 cc metal cased saw with a plastic recoil housing thats probably worth about 1/3 what I have into it.
End of story= I like it, and use it for all the limbing and light work around here. I have to make myself take the Stihl 009L out to keep it running, and it's the last one of the little ones I HAVENT replaced the chain on yet. The Homie has a new Stihl LP 3/8" chain that cuts great.
Getting the Mac Pm6A going now. That might put the Homie into retirement, but I doubt it.

 

[Dream]

I have a 1989 XL that I need to get finished. One of the young guys I work with is getting it for a small chore saw. Its not too bad. Had gotten a little water inside, so I cleaned out and shined up everything. Had a new ring I mistakenly ordered before I found out the XL2 had a Super2 engine, so it has a new ring. Got to find a good way to block off the exhaust so I can pressure and vac test, and then it should be ready to go back in the case.
After that, ive got a later model Super 2 with the primer that I may look at fixing.

 

[Dream]

I was thinking of using a piece of red rubber gasket that I have here. Problem I had before was the single mounting bolt on one side didnt let it seal well. I am thinking I'll take a large hose clamp and go around the entire cylinder and cinch down the other end of the muffler. That should do it if I ever get back around to it. Got a Stihl 019T spread out on the bench right now. Trying to clean up the cylinder enough to justify buying a piston for it. Dont care much for it myself, but my son fell in love with it. He likes the Creamsickles.

 

[Dream]

Like the Echos myself. Simpler design to me.
Would like to get SXL or XL12 one day. Ive heard They were good saws for their time.
I know where theres a 330 Homelite, but I doubt he would let it go. Seems attached to the bigger Homies. Heard most of those need an intake boot, and they are a bit scarce.

 

[Dream]

Yep, I hear Randy is one of the best. Wish he was on here a bit more. Havent seen him in awhile. Lots of good info.
I imagine you will be pleased with your new toy. I hope you ran it before you sent it to him. Good to have a comparison of before and after.
Sorry to hear about the back surgeries. One of my coworkers had one after a bad car accident that the doc botched, then had to have emergency surgery less than a month later to correct. It was a career changer for him.

 

[Dream]

Understand the hereditary thing. Bone spurs here. Neck, knees, ankles, and elbows.

 

[Wood Chopper]

Ok guys. Working on a couple Homies today. Not familiar with the saws all the way around yet.I have a good running 360 with the throttle lock broke. I have a donor saw I can swap one out wondering what the best way to get in the handle is? it looks like it’s into pieces until it gets to the carb housing.. or do I just punch the pin out?

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[fossil]

Ok guys. Working on a couple Homies today. Not familiar with the saws all the way around yet.I have a good running 360 with the throttle lock broke. I have a donor saw I can swap one out wondering what the best way to get in the handle is? it looks like it’s into pieces until it gets to the carb housing.. or do I just punch the pin out?

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Looks like the pins need to come out. Link to an IPL

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/homelite/360chainsaw.html

 

[Wood Chopper]

Looks like the pins need to come out. Link to an IPL

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/homelite/360chainsaw.html

Thanks Tim

 

[Al Smith]

Give me the model number and I might be able to find the IPL which could bring more light on the subject .I've got two of the giant books with many IPL's

 

[Dream]

So I was putting together an XL for either a truck saw or a gift saw, depending on how it turns out. If its easy to start and pretty reliable, I'll give it to one of our young guys for a yard work saw. If it runs ok, but is temperamental, I'll probably make a truck saw out of it, cause I'm better at "chainsaw whispering" than most young folks.
I put a new ring and new crank seals in it, and wanted to pressure/vac test it. Problem is, the stupid one bolt muffler doesnt want to seal. Finally ended up with a piece of red rubber for a gasket, a piece of flat steel, and a sliding c clamp to seal the exhaust. Used heavy wheel bearing grease to help out. Also put grease around the crank seals and pinched off the impulse line for the oiler with hemostat. Standard block off gasket under the carb. Still wont hold vac, and pressure leaks down. Pretty sure its just the exhaust not sealing. Not sure why I care for this cheapo, but has anyone had this problem?

 

[sawnami]

So I was putting together an XL for either a truck saw or a gift saw, depending on how it turns out. If its easy to start and pretty reliable, I'll give it to one of our young guys for a yard work saw. If it runs ok, but is temperamental, I'll probably make a truck saw out of it, cause I'm better at "chainsaw whispering" than most young folks.
I put a new ring and new crank seals in it, and wanted to pressure/vac test it. Problem is, the stupid one bolt muffler doesnt want to seal. Finally ended up with a piece of red rubber for a gasket, a piece of flat steel, and a sliding c clamp to seal the exhaust. Used heavy wheel bearing grease to help out. Also put grease around the crank seals and pinched off the impulse line for the oiler with hemostat. Standard block off gasket under the carb. Still wont hold vac, and pressure leaks down. Pretty sure its just the exhaust not sealing. Not sure why I care for this cheapo, but has anyone had this problem?

I had one leaking between the crankcase halves.

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[PogoInTheWoods]

No soapy water misted on the suspect areas? Pretty easy saw to test once you get the exhaust sealed.

What are you using for your insertion point? If it's the plug hole with a rednecked plug adapter it should be made from a tapered plug or sealed with an 'O' ring for best results with the tapered seat.

Spray some suds on it and apply some pressure, but not too much. A couple p.s.i. will do. Spray around the plug hole and also check all your test fittings for leaks.

You'll find it.

 

[Dream]

Using my compression tester with the shrader valve removed. It has a quick coupler to the gauge, so I just rigged a valve, gauge, and regulator with a quick coupler on each end. Connect to tester hose, then hook air line on. Turned my compressor down to 10 psi, then tester regulator down to 0. Open valve, adjust pressure, close valve.
Only leak I can find is at the exhaust port that wont seal. Using spray bottle with soapy water.
For vacuum test, I just push the hose on the mityvac over the end of the compression tester male coupler.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Doesn't sound like you have a problem, then. lol

What I was actually curious about was what you were using as an injection point on the saw for applying the pressure / vac. And like I always stress, (and folks are probably getting sick of hearing), passing a pressure test doesn't mean you'll pass a vacuum test. Seals are the most likely place for a vac leak, but can also act as a one way valve that will close with pressure. That's why I suggest very low pressure when doing the soapy water test. Too much can close a leaky seal. Light grease or oil is always a good test for suspected leaks around seals since you can usually see it being drawn in or it'll temporarily stop a small leak as observed on a gauge.

 

[lumberjackchef]

Looking for id on this one boys. I was told it fits a 750 but not certain. I cant find my old ipls for this series of saws....thanks for any input!

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