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Steve

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Beginning on the carpet.
I have zero problems tearing into any engine or transmission yet for whatever reason I'm a bit nervous on this endeavor.

Starting at the center, rear per instructions. First cut for the console bracket will now locate it for the remainder of the install.
View attachment 481414

I used a nail to locate the center of the seatbelt bolt hole. A random 9/16 socket heated up and...
View attachment 481418

View attachment 481416


The large washer will help keep the carpet from shifting while moving forward with seat bracket holes. On final install, that washer will go under the carpet on the belts.
View attachment 481417

Yeah, doing injectors on a 6.0 Ford as we speak like it's a wiper blade installation but ashamed of the vinyl floor install of my F150.
 

redline4

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So far so good. Only spot I'm not happy with is at the rear of the console, but that will be behind the seat.
Door sill plates are on order.
Once it gets warm out, I'll get out the heat gun and smooth out any bulges or wrinkles. The instructions say most will flatten out on their own with temp and time.

20260131_150141.jpg20260131_150153.jpg20260131_151356.jpg20260131_151414.jpg20260131_151514.jpg
 

legdelimber

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That carpet give that funky burnt celery smell when you heat it?

edit: I wonder about some sandbags on the carpet. Sheet of plastic to keep any leakage in check?
 

hacskaroly

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The instructions say most will flatten out on their own with temp and time.
This is true, I redid the carpet in my 65 Mustang and it was a bit lumpy at first, but after sitting in the spring time sun, it relaxed and laid down without issue.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Toyota's 2UZ-FE is probably one of the best engines ever. I looked at several with that engine before buying one and they were all leak free other than the valve cover which are easy to do. But yeah people buying a 7.3 because they're"reliable" is crazy. A Toyota 2UZ-FE is probably the one engine I'd buy with 300k+ and still expect it to be halfway reliable.
Yep theyre good engines but the whole package leaves alot to be desired. I believe ive been working and wrenching on 4.7l powered trucks since before you was born.

Some issues ive seen on 4.7 trucks:
Rear spring packs are worthless. Ive always rebuild them with an add a leaf so they can actually tow/haul. Starters are in an aweful location. Entire intake has to be removed to replace them. By 80k miles of running hot and towing or hauling , timing belts are cracked. Expensive job. No low-end torque for wood chores.

Honestly a young man who may have to haul things or do wood chores, a 2 valve triton v8 super duty with a 6 speed manual or 4r100.
Or a 3/4 or 1 ton 6.0 chevy with the nv 4500 or the 4l80e would be a much better truck.

Both trucks go 300k and have better brakes and stronger axles for WORK.

4.7 trucks are fine if its just a bag of groceries or 2.
 

hacskaroly

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Honestly a young man who may have to haul things or do wood chores, a 2 valve triton v8 super duty with a 6 speed manual
I have a 98 F-250 3/4 ton with the 5.4 v8 triton, I really like the truck, but wish it had a manual transmission instead of the automatic!
 

mainer_in_ak

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I have a 98 F-250 3/4 ton with the 5.4 v8 triton, I really like the truck, but wish it had a manual transmission instead of the automatic!
Great engines! The stroke is longer than the bore diameter(designed for immediate torque).

Loaded with a cord of green wood in the bed, the low-end torque of the 5.4 triton is much more noticeable than the vortec 350 of the era.

Those rear sterling 10.5" axles used nothing but Koyo bearings. Even at 250k of heavy towing, theyre usually in perfect condition. They don't go bad.
 

hacskaroly

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I am dealing with a blown head gasket right now, its filling at least one cylinder with coolant where the truck won't idle, but will stay running if I keep it at about 2k rpm. This is the second engine for the truck (replaced before I got it) and the odometer shows just over 400k. I am assuming when this remaned engine was put in, that it didn't get the heads leveled as the receipt stated it got new head gaskets. It was running strong before the head gasket issue got worse, at least there isn't coolant in the oil - gotta take every little win you can!!
 

SawAddictedFarmer

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Yep theyre good engines but the whole package leaves alot to be desired. I believe ive been working and wrenching on 4.7l powered trucks since before you was born.

Some issues ive seen on 4.7 trucks:
Rear spring packs are worthless. Ive always rebuild them with an add a leaf so they can actually tow/haul. Starters are in an aweful location. Entire intake has to be removed to replace them. By 80k miles of running hot and towing or hauling , timing belts are cracked. Expensive job. No low-end torque for wood chores.

Honestly a young man who may have to haul things or do wood chores, a 2 valve triton v8 super duty with a 6 speed manual or 4r100.
Or a 3/4 or 1 ton 6.0 chevy with the nv 4500 or the 4l80e would be a much better truck.

Both trucks go 300k and have better brakes and stronger axles for WORK.

4.7 trucks are fine if its just a bag of groceries or 2.
Well I ended up with a 4th gen 4runner so no leaf springs but still the 4.7. The only time I've heard of starters going out on these is 300,000+. Probably sooner where your at though. Putting it under the manifold also keeps it away from the salt brine they put on the roads here. The 2 trucks you mentioned are both nice but I really don't need the towing capacity as much as I need something that doesn't get awful gas mileage. If I end up needing to regularly tow more then 6k I'll buy something for towing. With what I have I can pull 7k if needed and I still average around 18mpg. Plus it would be really hard to buy a reliable truck for what I paid for this.
 
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