Firewood ProSizer Laser Firewood Measuring Tool

[Philbert]

Measuring firewood accurately, and consistently, is the topic of many threads. Some guys don't care if a piece is off by a few inches; some want their firewood stacks to line up like a planed surface; some just want the wood to fit in their particular stove.

Aside from sticks, chalk, paint, etc., a few high-tech solutions have become available, using lasers. The Firewood ProSizer is one of the more affordable options, at $69, shipped. Because this is a topic of interest to me, I asked for one to demo.

www.firewoodprosizer.com

Some related threads:

https://opeforum.com/threads/stihl-chainsaw-laser-and-bluetooth.23018/

https://opeforum.com/threads/firewood-measuring-sticks.5851/

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Design

I really like the idea of the FirewoodProSizer. I like the simplicity of the design. And I like the price, especially compared to the STIHL Laser 2-in-1!




The unit comes with a simple, sturdy, aluminum mounting bracket, with a few spare bolts, a hex key for mounting, and a space strip for mounting on smaller diameter handles (I suppose that tape could also be used). It also comes with a USB charging cable for the laser. The edges of the bracket could be a little smoother, but that is a fussy detail that can be addressed with a little sandpaper.

The laser is self contained, with an ON/OFF switch and a charging port protected by a small, rubber plug. It projects a small, red line, which can be oriented vertically (|) or horizontally (-).

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Mounting

Mounting depends on your chainsaw, and whether you cut right-to-left, or left-to-right. I have several chainsaws: some have a front handle on both the right and left sides. Some have a handle on the left side only. Some of these handles are angled, which directed the laser beam up in the air, or down to the ground! Mounting it on the top of the handle sends the beam into the chain brake handle / flag.



The attached photos illustrate these issues on one saw, although, I tried mounting it on a few. So, while this could work with some of my saws, as it does in the manufacturer's videos, I would prefer a 'universal' design that worked with most saws. Adding some type of pivot, which would let me aim/direct the laser beam better, would address this.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Visibility

Another issue was visibility of the red laser dot. Upfront; I am colorblind, which makes this type of dot harder to see (red does not 'jump out' at me). It was visible upon inspection when close to the log, and when cutting in the shade. But at the end of a 16-inch bar, or in bright sunlight, I could not see it. A larger, brighter laser, or perhaps a green laser, might be more visible to me.

This does not mean that other users might not find this device to be a very helpful tool. I appreciated the opportunity to try it, and would look forward to some potential improvements down the road.


Philbert

 

[jacob j.]

I eyeballed my firewood for 24 years, worked pretty good for me.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

It is fun to travel around in New England and see the impeccable wood stacks. You would swear they have been using some sort of laser. I like the look, but lack the time. My stacks are fuggly.

 

[Philbert]

I like the look, but lack the time. My stacks are fuggly.

Probably burn the same!

Some people really like a neat appearance, especially if they are selling the wood. Other people are just not that good at estimating distance.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Probably burn the same!

Some people really like a neat appearance, especially if they are selling the wood. Other people are just not that good at estimating distance.

Philbert

I like to cut my logs a tad under 18" because I stack four rows of splits into my truck that has a 6-foot box. Packed like a sardine can, customers are always amazed when I show up. My solution for doing this was to cut most of my firewood logs with an 18" bar mounted on the saw. I also keep an 18" story stick in the truck when I have to use a longer bar for the really big logs.

Anyway, Philbert, I always marvel at new inventions like this one. Good show.

 

[Wilhelm]

Marks the desired length with a white line, alternative colors are optional, fits any saw, marks any length, recharge cartridges can be utilized within a minute or so.
Cost? Some 5 to 10$.
Doesn't work in rain though!

 

[big_eddy]

Here is my version. I ordered the bits after looking at the Stihl version, but I could not figure out what angle to direct it at for consistent lengths. I originally had it mounted on the handle top and directed to the right but my block length changed depending on the diameter of the log.
After viewing the prosizer video, the light came on. By using the bar tip for a consistent distance from laser to log and with the correct laser angle, equal block lengths would result.

I used a $10 Amazon “bike torch holder” and a $20 laser sight. I paid a bit more for a laser with a pressure switch versus always on and for a torch holder that allows the torch to be separated from the clamp without removing it from the handle.

I have NOT cut wood with it yet, so I do not have real world experience with it. The laser is VERY visible in bright daylight. The in out and up down angles are infinitely adjustable. I would have preferred the laser to mount inside the handle than out, but the removable portion of the holder makes it taller than some others. I may need to spend another $6 and get one that does not separate like the lower image with a cam lock clamp.

The battery is rechargeable, but must be removed.

When my next load of logs arrives, I will provide more feedback..

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[angelo c]

Any chance you can show how to set up the distance/length?
not following how this works.

 

[big_eddy]

The bar is always the same length. Measure your desired log length, and set the bar tip touching the log there. Then adjust the clamp’s angle so that the laser spot is at the other end of the block. Cut. Move saw right with bar tip touching log until laser spot appears. Cut. Repeat several thousand times.

What is different from “normal” cutting is you need to back up after every cut until the bar tip is just touching the log to set your length, then lean forward to cut.

Watch the video and you see what I mean.

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[Philbert]

Here is my version.

I like it. A lot!

That extra axis of rotation addresses one of my key concerns with the ProSizer. How bright is the laser / torch?

Phibert

 

[big_eddy]

It is claimed to be visible over 100m in daylight. My longest bar is 24” so I’m a tad under that.

It is bright enough in daylight to stand out on bark. It is a lot brighter than the ones they sell at the dollar stores.

I would have preferred a USB rechargeable one, but they seem to be hard to find. Hopefully having the pressure switch (which I will Velcro to the handle by my left thumb) will help the battery last a full day cutting.

My original criteria was cheap and available, rechargeable battery and must have a pressure switch. I have since found others that are more compact that could be more suitable. If I like it, I might upgrade later.


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[Duane(Pa)]

Any chance you can show how to set up the distance/length?
not following how this works.

In the last picture, you will see the green laser dot right at the left edge of the log.

 

[rogue60]

I like it!
This would be fast with no thinking/eyeballing just line the dot up cut repeat..

 

[big_eddy]

Time for an update. I’ve cut about 8 cord using it.
Short story. I like it!

The good.
The handle mounted switch is great. Cut a block. Squeeze the switch. Spot appears. Let go and cut. 8 cord so far on the battery with no fading or charging. And no laser flashing all over all the time.
The spot is visible in daylight on any log. (even 50’ away )
The delay to measure length is negligible. Something but nothing. And my blocks are very consistent.

The not so good.
The laser should be inside the handle.I bang it with my leg from time to time. Then my blocks are short. See calibration below.
The tilting torch mount was crap. The pivot was too loose so it would tilt whenever it wanted.
I bought a different torch mount that used rubber bands to attach. Easier to install and remove,but the rubber bands stretched and allowed for minor changes in angle. Minor angle changes result in significant length changes. I went back to the original torch mount and fixed the sloppy pivot by setting the angle then fusing the plastic together.
The cheap pressure switch had no strain relief so the wires broke. I repaired it and added strain relief.

Process.
Calibration. Before each session,or if i think the angle is off I place the saw tip in a corner and check the dot is between two marks on the gator fender. 15”-16”. Easy enough to adjust, and the original torch holder mounts firmly enough it does not move without help.

Cutting.
Moving right. Place saw tip at log at approx length and press switch. Move right until dot appears on log then stop. Or if dot is already on log, move saw left until dot is at edge of log. Let go switch and Cut. Repeat.

Moving left. Finish cut and withdraw bar until tip at edge of log. Hit switch and eyeball spot on log. Let go switch and cut at spot where dot was.

In both cases, you are using the tip of the bar to set the length. Important the chain has stopped moving in case it actually touches the log to avoid kickback.

End result.
It takes a fraction of a second longer to measure each cut. My blocks are now +/- 1” (except the last piece) whereas I was typically +/-4” eyeballing. It is here to stay.
Eventually I will make my own mount that locates the laser inside the handle.

What the heck do you do when the last section of log is 39”? 3x13” or 2x16+7 or ???


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[birdmeter]

w t. heck .

 

[CrystalRiver1]

Time fer me some glasses...

 

[justoldsaws]

Twice he developer of the Prosizer promised me a prototype for testing, still haven't seen one, it was his opportunity for trialing in the Aussie market, he wont get a third chance.