Firewood Measuring Sticks

[Wood Doctor]

If one has a wood stove, the stove decides the length. You are safe at 16" log lengths for most stoves. Anything longer, and you cant get the logs into the stove.

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Precisely. I've often thought that stoves that will receive logs 16" or less should never have been built and sold. But that's just MHO. There are lots of them out there and that includes the antique stoves that were built to heat the caboose on trains. And, potbelly stoves are everywhere. Some of these will not even accept a 16" log.

 

[merc_man]

Well after lots of use the end marker fell off. Need to find some other kind of adheasive. What are you guys us8ng for adheasive.

Also i got some stronger magnets. What are those cup things from that you put magnets in.


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[RI Chevy]

I kind of lost track here. Was yours hand made or a purchased unit?

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[merc_man]

I kind of lost track here. Was yours hand made or a purchased unit?

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Home brew.

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[RI Chevy]

Ahhhh. OK
I bought a pre-made unit, red fiberglass rod, and it has been good so far. [emoji106]

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[Philbert]

What are you guys us8ng for adheasive.

What are those cup things from that you put magnets in.

Thanks for the update!

I just looked at the glue aisle in my local home center and picked something that said it worked with the components I was using.

The steel cups magnify / focus the magnetic force. I bought 'cup magnets' off eBay and Amazon with these already assembled. Lee Valley tools sells the components separately.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Glue and magnets? Seems like that end marker could be held on with a machine screw into threads. Probably last forever. Just MHO.

 

[Philbert]

I don't want metal where a chain might meet it.

EDIT: maybe a nylon screw?

JMHO

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Bump!


Philbert

 

[Mastermind]

Lately I've been using a yellow piece of a old fiberglass maul handle, and a MS150.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

+

 

[Philbert]

+

Your’s costs more. Takes up more space. And requires replacement purchases.

Philbert

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

Your’s costs more. Takes up more space. And requires replacement purchases.

Philbert

It does, but I already have both 'in stock' from working in construction, so it's 'free to me'.

 

[Philbert]

Everybody has to find something that works for them.


Philbert

 

[Nutball]

If it is a long straight log, I'll lay a tape measure on it and mark the wood every whatever inches I want plus a half inch for bar thickness. A fter a few times you get used to the numbers to look for on the tape as adding .25-.5" several times throws off the nice even numbers. Thats if I'm cutting for someone picky. For me I will find or make a reference point on the bar, hold the saw sideways for a second to measure the length, then turn it and make the cut. I also measure with my hands sometimes. one hand is like 8-8.5" middle finger to thumb. That makes 8", 12", 16" and 24" easy enough, and I can over or undershoot as I feel necessary.

 

[Mastermind]

If it is a long straight log, I'll lay a tape measure on it and mark the wood every whatever inches I want plus a half inch for bar thickness. A fter a few times you get used to the numbers to look for on the tape as adding .25-.5" several times throws off the nice even numbers. Thats if I'm cutting for someone picky. For me I will find or make a reference point on the bar, hold the saw sideways for a second to measure the length, then turn it and make the cut. I also measure with my hands sometimes. one hand is like 8-8.5" middle finger to thumb. That makes 8", 12", 16" and 24" easy enough, and I can over or undershoot as I feel necessary.

I know you own a top handled saw Remington.

So......if you want 18" firewood, cut an 18" stick. Hold that stick in your left hand......saw in the right.

Mark....mark....mark....mark.....etc....etc...etc....

 

[Stump Shot]

Everybody has to find something that works for them.


Philbert

I try not to over complicate, seeing as I am already carrying a chainsaw with a bar of fixed length, just use either the whole bar if the right length or to a mark on the bar if longer. Just lay it on the log flat and pick up the back end leaving the tip on the log and swing it around to cut at the spot at the end of the bar tip. No gizmo's in the way and no sticks to carry, is not as fast as eyeballing though, which tends to win the day some times.

 

[Nutball]

I try not to over complicate, seeing as I am already carrying a chainsaw with a bar of fixed length, just use either the whole bar if the right length or to a mark on the bar if longer. Just lay it on the log flat and pick up the back end leaving the tip on the log and swing it around to cut at the spot at the end of the bar tip. No gizmo's in the way and no sticks to carry, is not as fast as eyeballing though, which tends to win the day some times.

Exactly

I know you own a top handled saw Remington.

So......if you want 18" firewood, cut an 18" stick. Hold that stick in your left hand......saw in the right.

Mark....mark....mark....mark.....etc....etc...etc....

Sounds efficient unless you don't have a pre measured stick at the cutting site.

 

[Mastermind]

Exactly


Sounds efficient unless you don't have a pre measured stick at the cutting site.

I also measure with my hands sometimes. one hand is like 8-8.5" middle finger to thumb. That makes 8", 12", 16" and 24" easy enough, and I can over or undershoot as I feel necessary.

Derp.....derp....

 

[redoakneck]

If u don't have any sticks at the cutting site, seems u might not have much to cut???

Most of the trees I cut down have a stick or two on them