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Dolmar 7910 rebuild. Need some help

riverrat2

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I've never really been into measuring piston vs bore clearance. But I've never had a failure either. I've heard it mentioned that (I believe) .0025 - .003" clearance is optimal. But I really have no idea as to the accuracy of that statement. I know several meteor pistons per model are available that are maybe + and - .001
rule 0f thumb on a cast piston is about +-.003 as optimal, Forged pistons require a bit more as they expand more when heated up
 

t4driller

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I've never really been into measuring piston vs bore clearance. But I've never had a failure either. I've heard it mentioned that (I believe) .0025 - .003" clearance is optimal. But I really have no idea as to the accuracy of that statement. I know several meteor pistons per model are available that are maybe + and - .001
This is the first time I've had this issue with one going bad instantly. And was curious what the clearances were supposed to be. I spent some time lastnight cleaning up the p/c, and the piston slides right in. The only spot that concerns me is on the sides of the piston skirt is alot tighter to the bore then the middle of the skirt. Gonna go around the ports with a diamond ball quick to make sure that isn't an issue. Then will try again if all looks good.

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huskihl

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This is the first time I've had this issue with one going bad instantly. And was curious what the clearances were supposed to be. I spent some time lastnight cleaning up the p/c, and the piston slides right in. The only spot that concerns me is on the sides of the piston skirt is alot tighter to the bore then the middle of the skirt. Gonna go around the ports with a diamond ball quick to make sure that isn't an issue. Then will try again if all looks good.

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Given the circumstances, you could flat file and sand those tight areas until a .002 or .003 feeler gauge goes in. I've sanded high spots off a rough piston before, but just to remove light scoring in an otherwise good piston. If it's smooth and the right size it'll work. All a piston has to do is fit smoothly and fill the hole. There's a whole lot uglier pistons running in everyday saws than what yours is
 

t4driller

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Given the circumstances, you could flat file and sand those tight areas until a .002 or .003 feeler gauge goes in. I've sanded high spots off a rough piston before, but just to remove light scoring in an otherwise good piston. If it's smooth and the right size it'll work. All a piston has to do is fit smoothly and fill the hole. There's a whole lot uglier pistons running in everyday saws than what yours is
Thank you. You just answered the next question I was thinking about asking. [emoji2] [emoji2]

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t4driller

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Took some 320 grit paper to it, then scotch brite. Can still barely see the machining marks. Then took and cleaned up the casting along all the edges of the skirt. Slides in way better then it did before. [emoji4] [emoji4]

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huskihl

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Make sure there's no transfer in the jug in those areas that are tight around the skirt. Looks can be deceiving
 

t4driller

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Make sure there's no transfer in the jug in those areas that are tight around the skirt. Looks can be deceiving
uploadfromtaptalk1458080961077.jpguploadfromtaptalk1458080974085.jpguploadfromtaptalk1458080986455.jpghard to get a good pic. But there is some lines running up it. Took 220 grit emery cloth , diamond ball around ports, then scotch brite.

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I'm out of time for today. [emoji17] [emoji17] kids just got home and wife is at work. But glad to get some good head way on it

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huskihl

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t4driller

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It sure doesn't look like there's any in there. If you have feeler gauges, I'd still try to make the gap more similar all the way around the piston. Gotta have a couple thou for oil
That's what it looked like before this all hapoened. But has a couple more score lines in it now. They are mostly all on the bottom half , so shouldn't hurt compression.

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It sure doesn't look like there's any in there. If you have feeler gauges, I'd still try to make the gap more similar all the way around the piston. Gotta have a couple thou for oil
When checking with a feeler gauge, I had .0016 clearance around piston skirt. I put a feeler on each side at the same time. That's with the piston in the cylinder with top against squish band. When I bring the bottom of skirt even with the bottom of the jug it's a little tighter yet. Have to really push them in.

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huskihl

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When checking with a feeler gauge, I had .0016 clearance around piston skirt. I put a feeler on each side at the same time. That's with the piston in the cylinder with top against squish band. When I bring the bottom of skirt even with the bottom of the jug it's a little tighter yet. Have to really push them in.

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Sooo....0016 each side for a total of .0032? Or .0016 on one side while the other is tight?
 

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Sooo....0016 each side for a total of .0032? Or .0016 on one side while the other is tight?
I put one on each side. .0016 if I tried to slide a .002 with a .0016 it wouldn't fit. But when the skirt was even with the bottom of jug they wouldn't fit. uploadfromtaptalk1458174688004.jpgI used 2 of these

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huskihl

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That seems OK from what I remember. Oil the rings, piston, and jug and give her another go
 

drf256

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IDK,

Guess I stand alone in thinking more transfer needs to be removed from your jug.

I use acid and sanding. The problem I've found with sanding alone is that you can polish some of the transfer and not see it.

I'd degrease the jug well, apply acid carefully with a Qtip, and see if you've got a lot of bubbling going on there.
 
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