Considering a grinder finally

[Skeans1]

If it was me I’d try to dedicate one grinder per size of chain chassis as consider something it’s quick to adjust the gauge for the chain. We have three different round grinders an Oregon 511ax it’s so so it’s setup to do rakers on shorter chains, a Silvey 511 rounder grinder which does a nice job, a Silvey P&D for 3/4 that basically sits, and a Super Jolly that does everything from 19hx down it’s our most used grinder, right with the DGG raker grinder.

Are you also going to do depth gauges on the grinder or grinders?

How much 3/4 or 404 080 are you going to see?

 

[TreeLife]

The only grinder I'm going to buy is one just for 3/8 chain. It will literally be 75% of my business. 10% .325 and even lesser for small chains.

I ordered a chain vise for touch ups and mild filings.

The grinder is for the rocked chains.

Depth gauges done by hand.

Also planning on sharpening more than just chainsaw chains too. There's no place around here for restaurants to get their knives sharpened, no one is interested in fixing chisels or other wood working tools etc.

 

[KS Plainsman]

Alright guys, I have been trying to figure out a side hustle and decided to start a sharpening business. With the amount of tree services, firewood services, loggers etc in the area and not many people doing it, I figured it would be a good idea.

Going to sharpen all size chains, axes, repair chisels and sharpen knives as well.

The question for me is, what is a good general purpose grinder? I'm not scared to spend some money but I'm not buying a square grinder. No one round here runs it.

Opinions?

I use a Tecomec Super Jolly, and have a air, or mist coolant nozzle on the stand. I also have the Tecomec without the hydraulic clamp, but if I were doing it for a business, I would do the hydraulic version.

 

[Loony661]

The only grinder I'm going to buy is one just for 3/8 chain. It will literally be 75% of my business. 10% .325 and even lesser for small chains.

I ordered a chain vise for touch ups and mild filings.

The grinder is for the rocked chains.

Depth gauges done by hand.

Also planning on sharpening more than just chainsaw chains too. There's no place around here for restaurants to get their knives sharpened, no one is interested in fixing chisels or other wood working tools etc.

This thought had crossed my mind in the past also - we used to have a great local gentleman who sharpened about everything, and he retired about 8 years ago..

It should be noted that the Stihl USG can also be used to sharpen hedge trimmer blades with an optional attachment - something landscapers would appreciate once word gets out.

 

[TreeLife]

The reason I'm considering doing this is the lack of that service provided in this area. Also, my wife has decided to change her career path which is also changing the time she is working...annoyingly to the times I would be working overtime myself making great money.

So I've had to figure out a way to make money at home doing something that doesn't make me miserable, so I can be with my Daughter at home.

Lots going on here at the Luchi household these days!

 

[BLACKOUT]

Also planning on sharpening more than just chainsaw chains too. There's no place around here for restaurants to get their knives sharpened, no one is interested in fixing chisels or other wood working tools etc.

I’ve gotta say my buddy’s Tormek T8 is pretty choice for non chainsaw sharpening. Just like with a chain grinders, a CBN will get a lot of knives/chisels razor sharp and get them there fast. A WEN knockoff (I have one for axes) is an ok substitute but it’s not a Tormek.

 

[isaaccarlson]

I have a timbertuff bench/wall mount grinder. It needed a little adjusting to dial it in and it does a wonderful job.

The back stop on the rear rail can be adjusted for chain gauge, so you need to adjust it in or out until your teeth are the same. Sharpening different gauges of chain will throw off your tooth length from left to right a little, but not bad. I have always run .050, so I have to adjust the chain stop a little when switching sides, but it gets adjusted on every chain anyway, so no big deal. Once I use up my .058 chains, I will go back to .050 on everything. I never meant to get .058 in the first place....

 

[Stump Shot]

The only grinder I'm going to buy is one just for 3/8 chain. It will literally be 75% of my business. 10% .325 and even lesser for small chains.

I ordered a chain vise for touch ups and mild filings.

The grinder is for the rocked chains.

Depth gauges done by hand.

Also planning on sharpening more than just chainsaw chains too. There's no place around here for restaurants to get their knives sharpened, no one is interested in fixing chisels or other wood working tools etc.

https://www.foley-belsaw-sharpening.com/

 

[larasea]

What angles do you guys prefer for general work?

Are you also doing the +/- 10* with the base using the “right away” method?

At present running 55/25/10 on Stihl RS and 50/30/0 on RM chains. This was yesterday playing with 400 and 500i. I've been playing around with this grinder for the last year or so and this is the best so far, thanks to huskihl. I have destroyed some chain playing with the angles.

 

[Mygalomorph]

If money is no objekt and top quality and full auto capability is desired Top of their line

 

[Mygalomorph]

 

[Mygalomorph]

Hmm im sorry that i posted the picture twice
First time posting pics

 

[TreeLife]

I would love nothing more than to have an automatic sharpener, however...I've got a couple grand to get this off the ground and I'm going to do more than just chains. So I have to split my money up reasonably.

 

[Philbert]

My thought would be 3 Oregon / Tecomec grinders for the chains. A Tormec for knives, scissors, chisels, etc. And an 8” bench grinder for everything else.

The bench grinder could also run ScotchBrite and buffing wheels for polishing/ sharpening.

Some guys like a 1” belt sander for sharpening. Some guys do knives on whetstones.

A guide bar edge grinder could add another service to offer.

Up to you, and what you feel comfortable doing. Good luck.

Philbert

 

[KS Plainsman]

My thought would be 3 Oregon / Tecomec grinders for the chains. A Tormec for knives, scissors, chisels, etc. And an 8” bench grinder for everything else.

The bench grinder could also run ScotchBrite and buffing wheels for polishing/ sharpening.

Some guys like a 1” belt sander for sharpening. Some guys do knives on whetstones.

A guide bar edge grinder could add another service to offer.

Up to you, and what you feel comfortable doing. Good luck.

Philbert

A belt grinder could double as a bar edge grinder. I use my 6x48 belt grinder for my bars.

 

[TreeLife]

My thought would be 3 Oregon / Tecomec grinders for the chains. A Tormec for knives, scissors, chisels, etc. And an 8” bench grinder for everything else.

The bench grinder could also run ScotchBrite and buffing wheels for polishing/ sharpening.

Some guys like a 1” belt sander for sharpening. Some guys do knives on whetstones.

A guide bar edge grinder could add another service to offer.

Up to you, and what you feel comfortable doing. Good luck.

Philbert

That's a great point of view, Phil. Thank you!

 

[isaaccarlson]

A belt grinder could double as a bar edge grinder. I use my 6x48 belt grinder for my bars.

So do I. It works great. I use the same wheel for .325 and 3/8 chain.

Most folks around here don't even know saw oilers are adjustable and that saw chains can/should be sharpened. They run a dull chain until the bar is shot and then buy a new saw. Nobody makes money charging $6-7 a chain, especially when you have to do the rakers. I'm at $10 a chain and nobody wants to pay it. They'd rather drive an hour and buy new. And a lot of them run used engine oil. I don't get it.

 

[larasea]

So do I. It works great. I use the same wheel for .325 and 3/8 chain.

Most folks around here don't even know saw oilers are adjustable and that saw chains can/should be sharpened. They run a dull chain until the bar is shot and then buy a new saw. Nobody makes money charging $6-7 a chain, especially when you have to do the rakers. I'm at $10 a chain and nobody wants to pay it. They'd rather drive an hour and buy new. And a lot of them run used engine oil. I don't get it.

You just can't fix stupid.

 

[beaglebriar]

We had an old guy in town that would sharpen anything. He could even solder new teeth on carbide circular saw blades. All of his stuff was better than new when you got it back.
Consider getting set up to sharpen planer/jointer blades as well as stuff like meat grinder plates and knives. Not many people out there that mess with it. You could do a lot with a surface grinder and a few jigs. That old fella was always busy.

 

[Wolverine]

I would love nothing more than to have an automatic sharpener, however...I've got a couple grand to get this off the ground and I'm going to do more than just chains. So I have to split my money up reasonably.

I've had one of these bastages for a couple years and it works great on my kitchen knives, lawn mower blades and other outdoor edged tools.


They have an attachment that allows for easy shaping & grinding.