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Can anyone give a run-down of when&where to use: Permatex's(copper/grey/red/etc), thread-lock,JBweld


Cerberus the aardvark, not the hell-hound!!
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7:38 AM
User ID
Jan 20, 2020
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Florida (tampa area)
I've been SO proud of myself, it's nearly 1yr since buying my 1st real chainsaw and, for months, I've been fixing "broken-beyond-repair" units in fact the 'final-round' of rebuild/overhauling a very badly-damaged Tanaka TCS33EDTP is underway right now and I made this thread because I've got everything laid-out and realizing I'm not as confident as I'd like to be with knowing what to use, and where!

I've only got several Permatex goop-tubes, and their thread-lock product (maybe it's Loctite branded? It's a regular blue type not high-heat) so figure it's easiest to state my intentions/defaults for this project and people can correct/add things to help me (and additions of other products would be great I only learned about how great Permatex is like 1mo ago :p )

1 - My muffler was removed for porting&painting, upon 'rough reassembly'(no goo's) to do a job - for testing purposes - it seemed that the problems were limited to poor chain-tension-precision which kept causing me to lose my chain. I get home and, upon going to inspect&remedy that, I find that my muffler is dangling in-place, only 1 of its 2 bolts remaining....SO I got new ones, going to grind flat-head slots into them and then: Permatex (Red or Copper) goes between muffler & block's outlet port, using a thin bead to ensure no 'inward-squish' that'd obstruct air-flow (will be omitting most of the gaskets when doing this / relying on the Permatex for seal)

2 - General goo's: To affix things like my bobbling-eyes (lil nickel-sized plastic tthingies, they vibrate on my chainbrake-handleguard, silly I know :p ), or the rubber feet/pads I put on the bottoms of my powerheads (unsure why this isn't done by *all* manufacturers, at end-of-day when I put my saws down it is often not gentle at all and if it's concrete below it doesn't change that, the lil rubber-bumpers help a lot IMO! Or even just gluing-on filter padding, for instance my saws all have more air-intake holes in the cases and I line them foam (for more, cleaner air-availability, to complement the other air/through-flow mods, starting to get idea that these mods only make real differences when done together) Since heat, or pressure, isn't much issue in these applications my defaults would be: Regular 'ole 2-part epoxy, then regular JBweld, then Permatex(which I'd consider ill-suited) I guess the best/optimal would be whichever resists solvents best as I blast my saws w/ lots of 'Carb Cleaner' & 'Brake Parts Cleaner' sprays ($2/can @walmart, things make life sooo much easier :D )

3 - High-heat: So for this use-case, one of the big issues w/ this saw when I got it was that two flywheel cooling-fan-fins had broken-off and then smashed-up the ignition module. I repaired the module, and it works a charm, however the two threaded holes in the block that you mount it to - those super-precise holes that determine its alignment Re the flywheel - are complete messes....my titanium screw-removal kit didn't help, have put 2-3 thin titanium bits into it and thtey just keep snapping (this is low-speed drilling w/ generous wd40 spraying on the spot being drilled!), SO I realized I'd have to 'get creative' and 'mcguyver' it, I used JBweld on the bottoms of the 2 retention bolts so they'd 'bite' the stripped-out half-holes on the block that'd align the module relative to the flywheel, once that cured I dribbled-on more JBweld over those screws to really 'lock them in', and I used more Copper Permatex around the spots where the ignition module was near/adjacent to the block to further lock-it-in. NOW, I wanna do a last round or two of 'goops' here, encasing the JBweld on the 2 retention-screws as well as the copper permatex around/under the module, am thinking the grey 'high torque' permatex, or JBweld, would be optimal but am afraid long-term they may degrade under heat.....would really love to hear anything anyone can tell me on this!

4 - Thread-lock: The sole problem I had on the first "day-on-job" for the Tanaka (after weeks of tinkering in every spare minute) was the muffler rattled one of its bolts right off and the other half-off, I've gotten new ones (thank the gods for Ace Hardware they always seem to come-through when it's "I need this odd screw/bolt, need 15min of your time for a $0.25c purchase" rofl) and as I use them to squish the copper permatex between the muffler&the block, I want thread-lock on them.....but I've yet to see a red version of thread-lock, and these are muffler-retention bolts so about as high-heat as you can get, should I still use the thread lock? Maybe just use a dab of the red or copper permatex instead? Would then know it could take the heat, and surely the red/copper would offer some 'bite' in that type of configuration!

Thanks a TON for any advice on any of this, am soooo stoked to have signed-up here I've found this place via google many times and procrastinated too-long!! My ultimate long-term goal is to be as-good at chainsaws as I've ever been at any hobby, as I've spent the past year trying to get the lion's-share of my work-load to be contract-climbing (am still 'all services' and maybe 1/5th to 1/3rd climbing/sawing, depending on week/month) and want to do nothing else for the next decade except some development *but* my plan for development is almost 'a retirement plan' in that my intent is to save to 25-50k so I can get a bank to cover the rest of the price of a wooded, crude ~1.25--2 acre plot of land near-ish to me, then my brother & I would spend 1-2yr felling all the trees, using an alaskan mill/saw mill(s) to create 'free building materials', and end with a finished, nice structure on finished land, easily 50-75k+ ahead financially :D But yeah between my 2 'life plans', currently & the coming years, kinda require me to be as good a saw-mechanic as I was a bike-mechanic when younger & doing nothing but "extreme biking" lol ;P