Cobbling

[Dub11]

Next we hammer this down to shoe and I apply all the clamps while it cures.

The next day I'll trim the leather so it matches the profile of the welt and add this rubber midsole. Make sure to rough up the leather first and I'll apply 2 layers of glue to the leather since the first will get absorbed pretty good.


Some say the leather provides a better bond to the sole and other say a rubber to rubber is better if it's going to be exposed to the elements because leather will swell and shrink with water exposure. Since these will all be stitched to the boots I'm making sure well have a rubber to rubber bond.

 

[JimBear]

Nice work Wayne, very interesting thread/hobby.

 

[Dub11]

So now on to sole stitching. I start out lining out my stitch count per inch. Some say the more SPI the better but I think leaving more meat between the holes has to be stronger in the long run.
I found when working with this thicker leather it's a lot safety to pre drill with a 3/32 bit. Running a awl through feel like play Russian roulette with the palm of your hand.

If I was using a thinner midsole the needle would just glide right through.

 

[Dub11]

Once again I start out at the inside of the heal with close to 20ft of cord and run it through a hole then even it out. I run the needle through the top since the bottom thread will be beat up a little it allows the top thread you see to remain looking cleaner.
And when you making the lock stitch and pulling it tight its important to leave a little slack so it doesn't crush down the leather or potentially rip the leather welt.
Like this.

Not like this.

 

[Dub11]

When done I just go through the first hole
Then pull through the top stitch and tie it off.
And for how squiggly it looks on the bottom it looks pretty straight from the top.

 

[Dub11]

So this project is going on a hiatus now. We are moving next week and I need to finish packing.