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Dub11

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Next we hammer this down to shoe and I apply all the clamps while it cures.
20250717_114525.jpg
The next day I'll trim the leather so it matches the profile of the welt and add this rubber midsole. Make sure to rough up the leather first and I'll apply 2 layers of glue to the leather since the first will get absorbed pretty good.20250721_092742.jpg


Some say the leather provides a better bond to the sole and other say a rubber to rubber is better if it's going to be exposed to the elements because leather will swell and shrink with water exposure. Since these will all be stitched to the boots I'm making sure well have a rubber to rubber bond.
 

Dub11

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So now on to sole stitching. I start out lining out my stitch count per inch. Some say the more SPI the better but I think leaving more meat between the holes has to be stronger in the long run.20250730_125933.jpg
I found when working with this thicker leather it's a lot safety to pre drill with a 3/32 bit. Running a awl through feel like play Russian roulette with the palm of your hand.

If I was using a thinner midsole the needle would just glide right through.
 
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Dub11

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Once again I start out at the inside of the heal with close to 20ft of cord and run it through a hole then even it out. I run the needle through the top since the bottom thread will be beat up a little it allows the top thread you see to remain looking cleaner.20250804_102159.jpg
And when you making the lock stitch and pulling it tight its important to leave a little slack so it doesn't crush down the leather or potentially rip the leather welt.20250804_102240.jpg
Like this.
20250804_102254.jpg
Not like this.
 

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hacskaroly

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So this project is going on a hiatus now.
This has been a cool thread and very interesting to see the process. It looks like a fun/useful hobby. Too bad I don't have any extra time or money or else I might look into this...lol. Good luck with the move and getting everything set back up quickly!
 

Eduardo K

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There was a time when I was buying tool leather and stitching together axe sheaths. Reading about the new welt reminded me of those days. “Awl then saddle stitch was the only way” because it didn’t cut the leather fibers like drilling, instead it separated them.
Being a keyboard jockey with soft hands, that didn’t last. I ended up buying a drill press for a dremel and used a tiny bit to drill to do the awl part.

Nice work. I get fed up with planned obsolescence and our throw away culture.
 
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