Chainsaw Mill - recommendations?

[sledneck22]

I want to get into chainsaw milling for a few smaller projects. I want to make a decorative pergola type structure. I have saws and I have nice straight pine logs 20" small dia. typ. . Rustic feel is a goal. For the price of the 4x6 posts I can basically buy a granberg 36" mill. Plus, It's a hobby I've wanted to explore for other projects. I also understand a bandsaw mill is optimal but again this is a hobby.
I'd be milling with either my 2095 or 066.
With that said, I'd like to buy a 36" granberg. (could maybe talk me into 40"plus but then I'd need a bar) What I'd like advice on is what other things do you find make chainsaw milling easier/more enjoyable? Such as recommendations on first cut guide bars or ripping chain. Anyone have some guide bar brackets plasma cut out that just screw into the ends of the log that fit extruded tube or hell 2x4s?
Is an aux. oiler necessary at that length? Handle modifications for fatigue? Log Cants at what height?

Any constructive advice is recommended on what to buy or fabricate (other than just buy a bandsaw mill).
Thanks,
Kyle

 

[PA Dan]

I have a 36" Granberg and with a 36" bar I can cut right around a 29" slab. I have run a 066 on it and has done quite well. I bought the Granberg winch system and it make milling easier. Many have made a winch for theirs. I did build an auxiliary oiler but have yet to use it. I feel it needs more oil than a saw can lay down. I do have the HO oiler on the 066. I have an aluminum ladder that I use for my first cut.

 

[sledneck22]

I have an aluminum ladder that I use for my first cut.

do you do anything to anchor the ladder to the log?

 

[PA Dan]

do you do anything to anchor the ladder to the log?

Long screws, 2x4, 2x6 pieces screwed into the ends of the log if needed.

 

[PA Dan]

Like this...

 

[Shane¹]

I have a cheap granberg look alike mill that came off eBay and works fine. I use a good straight 2x8 and just screw it to the top of my log and shim accordingly with a straightedge to make sure it doesn't warp. I was milling 28 inch bar on dolmar 9010 with chisel chain filed at about 10 degrees

 

[Eduardo K]

Just buy the mill and get after it. There is a wealth of information on this forum, but you’ll only really learn by doing it.
I use a piece of ladder rack as a straight edge with a 5/4x6 on either of of the log (just like PA Dan). I use a level and check along the guide to make sure my first cut won’t be twisted. Watch the last part of the cut, where the saw leaves the log, and try to keep it the saw “flat”. My board thickness is alway off here. I typically assume I’ll trim that bit off the board when I go to use it, I just need to make sure I don’t set a sticker there.
Crank up the oiler, use a sharp chain, and all of that other stuff. Listen to the saw in the cut, try to keep the force on the saw at a level that hold the right “tone”.
I have a 36” bar on a 48” mill. If I remove the spikes, I can get a cut width of 29”. Don’t be afraid to go bigger with the mill.
I’m sure you have have more experience with saws than me. Just start and you’ll be a pro in no time.

 

[PA Dan]

Well said...[emoji115]

 

[Shane¹]

Just buy the mill and get after it. There is a wealth of information on this forum, but you’ll only really learn by doing it.
I use a piece of ladder rack as a straight edge with a 5/4x6 on either of of the log (just like PA Dan). I use a level and check along the guide to make sure my first cut won’t be twisted. Watch the last part of the cut, where the saw leaves the log, and try to keep it the saw “flat”. My board thickness is alway off here. I typically assume I’ll trim that bit off the board when I go to use it, I just need to make sure I don’t set a sticker there.
Crank up the oiler, use a sharp chain, and all of that other stuff. Listen to the saw in the cut, try to keep the force on the saw at a level that hold the right “tone”.
I have a 36” bar on a 48” mill. If I remove the spikes, I can get a cut width of 29”. Don’t be afraid to go bigger with the mill.
I’m sure you have have more experience with saws than me. Just start and you’ll be a pro in no time.

I agree you will figure out what works best for you just go for it and I am sure it will come out great!

 

[heritageguy20051]

Buying a bigger mill won't force you to need a bigger bar. The mills are adjustable. I have a 48" Granberg and I've run everything from 20" to 50" bars with it. I've run some ripping chain. It works well but for the very little I mill, I decided to just run regular Stihl RS chain. If you can lift one end of the log, milling downhill works nice(unless you go with a winch.)

Sent from my moto g power (2022) using Tapatalk

 

[Stump Shot]

I have and recommend the Granberg mill to get you started. It's a quality product made here by a family company in the USA. If you need any help in the future, this will pay off for you.
I liked to use a mini mill after the first cut was made with the Alaskan to edge the log so every cat after made a board and saved edging every board individually or setting up the cutting guide two more times. Big time saver.
A good bar oil is needed and an additional oiler should be considered to keep the bar from wearing too fast.
Keep your saw just a touch rich to keep it as cool as possible.
Milling is tough on equipment, so good care should be taken to keep everything in good working order.

 

[Wolverine]

I've milled a bunch and don't use dedicated milling chain. Just file your top plate to 10-15 degrees and have at it.
Another good tip is a well placed leaf blower to direct fumes and dust away from you and the saw.

 

[PA Dan]

I've milled a bunch and don't use dedicated milling chain. Just file your top plate to 10-15 degrees and have at it.
Another good tip is a well placed leaf blower to direct fumes and dust away from you and the saw.

Now you tell me about the leaf blower...

 

[sledneck22]

Just buy the mill and get after it. Watch the last part of the cut, where the saw leaves the log, and try to keep it the saw “flat”.
Crank up the oiler, use a sharp chain, and all of that other stuff. .

If you can lift one end of the log, milling downhill works nice

I have and recommend the Granberg mill to get you started.

A good bar oil is needed and an additional oiler should be considered to keep the bar from wearing too fast.
Keep your saw just a touch rich to keep it as cool as possible.

These are all great recommendations and I appreciate all of them. These are the little things I was hoping for before jumping in.
Granberg 48" mill is what I ordered. Should be here by next weekend. I have a 32" bar I will start with and it will be more than enough for the pines I am going to make my beams and joists out of. I do have access to a bunch of really big trunks at the brush dump in my town. Something I considered for future milling which is why I bought the 48". I think eventually I'll end up with a 42-48" bar if I get time to slab some of that big stuff.
Milling downhill is something I didn't think of. I was going to make some log cants out of extra 2x4s this weekend I have from tearing out a wall during my remodel. I was going to make it all level but I am going to change that and get a bit of grade built in or at least make it adjustable to an extent. (i.e. extend the legs on one side)

 

[heritageguy20051]

Another thing is get some wedges to keep the kerf open so you don't pinch the bar.

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[sledneck22]

Another thing is get some wedges to keep the kerf open so you don't pinch the bar.

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I have some made, but need to make more. One thing I did read/find was wooden wedges hang in the kerf better and don't back out. So some rough cut wedges is what I'll be using.

 

[Wolverine]

Another tip is to have a level place to store the planks. It takes a lot of stickers if you don't already have a plan there. I just use old latex paint for the ends because I can't afford the good stuff.

Now you tell me about the leaf blower...

Sorry?

 

[Stump Shot]

I have some made, but need to make more. One thing I did read/find was wooden wedges hang in the kerf better and don't back out. So some rough cut wedges is what I'll be using.

Make out of a hard wood like oak and they'll last just fine.
You only really need them at the end of the cut, the board will lay down but won't pinch at the beginning or middle of the cut, before you finish is where it's needed to cut the last little bit and remove your rig.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Mico Mill is a end mill made from cast aluminum and absolutely one of the most precision made peices of chainsaw gear available. Its made in Canada and is used to finish cabin end logs.
I've used it to square the sides of a log after the top is cut flat with no need to reposition the log.
They are alittle expensive but high quality.

 

[sledneck22]

Well the ol 2095 is getting put back in service.

she got a good going through. New seals, clutch bearing and grease where it applies. Need to dig through the wife’s pantyhose or however you spell it and get some extra filtration.