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Khntr85

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Here's another chain, .325, that I sharpened tonight. Still a little deeper than I think you guys are suggesting. But this chain was pretty wrecked and was leaving some odd burrs. Dropping just a touch lower moved them down off the cutting edge. You can kinda see the burrs down in the gullet in the second picture.

03460df7c6a3b7ffd2788b096a21879f.jpg


f4ff90be0d9aea10c862bdae19921871.jpg
Good looking semi-chisel chain!!!

How you coming along......
 

Khntr85

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Well I cut down 2-silver maples in my back yard the other day,(they are blocking sun to my raspberry and blackberry patch).......I had some spare time(which was a shock), so I "polished" the cylinder of my 026 lol.....

Anyway I have an 18" Oregon full chisel chain on the 026....This chain was ground with the 10 tilt....I didn't get a pic of the chain, but look at the chips....now these maple were only 15-18" at the base and I had already used this chain before....it's amazing how easy it is to cut threw the softer woods after cutting dry hardwoods!!!

IMG_2329.JPG IMG_2328.JPG
 
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penzone

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Well I cut down 2-silver maples in my back yard the other day,(they are blocking sun to my raspberry and blackberry patch).......I had some spare time(which was a shock), so I "polished" the cylinder of my 026 lol.....

Anyway I have an 18" Oregon full chisel chain on the 026....I put a quick grind on the chain with the 10 tilt....I didn't get a pic of the chain, but look at the chips....now these maple were only 15-18" at the base and I had already used this chain before....it's amazing how easy it is to cut threw the softer woods after cutting dry hardwoods!!!

View attachment 64359 View attachment 64360

Those chips look nice! That soft wood will spoil you, be careful [emoji6] So, did you cut any of the maple before you put the tilt in? If so, how'd it compare?

What did you use to "polish" your cylinder?

We've had a lot of rain, and i dint want ti tear up the yard at the house I'm cutting trees right now. So I haven't done any cutting since the last pictures.

If the weather men are correct, I might be able to drop a few ash next week after this rain stops. At this point, I have all of my used chains sharpened. Right now I have the chains without tilt on my saws and will switch over to the tilt chains as they wear down.
 

Khntr85

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Those chips look nice! That soft wood will spoil you, be careful [emoji6] So, did you cut any of the maple before you put the tilt in? If so, how'd it compare?

What did you use to "polish" your cylinder?

We've had a lot of rain, and i dint want ti tear up the yard at the house I'm cutting trees right now. So I haven't done any cutting since the last pictures.

If the weather men are correct, I might be able to drop a few ash next week after this rain stops. At this point, I have all of my used chains sharpened. Right now I have the chains without tilt on my saws and will switch over to the tilt chains as they wear down.
No I haven't tried the Oregon chain without the tilt.....Please let me know how the Oregon cut s without the tilt....I know they will cut just fine, but like you, I am curious to see if I can "feel" a difference.....

When I grind Stihl RS chain I use 30-55-0...I have never tried tilt on the RS chain.....

It was rainy around my house to, that's why played with the 026....as far as the tools I use, I just have a knock off dremel with the pencil tip attachment....I just use the stones that came with it, and they do a fine job....I don't know if it made a difference yet or not, but seemed to have more ummph in the cut, so to say....

I knocked that lip off of the intake, this is a before pic, didn't take one when I was done lol.....
IMG_2314.JPG

Here is the exhaust.....i only slightly widened it.....now guys I am only self taught, if this is bad feel free to let me know....I have played around with "porting" clamshells to with good results....
IMG_2318.JPG
 

Khntr85

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The 026 I have is in good shape for age.....it has always ran great, but sometimes it acts like it is going to die, or does die when idling....I put a new OEM carb on it, and I can get it to idle but still ain't "right" to me....I am OCD, so in reality it is probably fine for a saw of this age....

Anyway I seen were a guy said if you grind out that intake lip it will keep the fuel from "puddling " up....I didn't even run a tank threw the 026, but I will report back once I have used her more to see if it solved the problem...she does seem to be running better/stronger!!!!
 

penzone

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The 026 I have is in good shape for age.....it has always ran great, but sometimes it acts like it is going to die, or does die when idling....I put a new OEM carb on it, and I can get it to idle but still ain't "right" to me....I am OCD, so in reality it is probably fine for a saw of this age....

Anyway I seen were a guy said if you grind out that intake lip it will keep the fuel from "puddling " up....I didn't even run a tank threw the 026, but I will report back once I have used her more to see if it solved the problem...she does seem to be running better/stronger!!!!
Those changes should definitely help the flow. Did you have to modify the muffler at all because you funneled the exhaust port?

I haven't ported anything yet, but will be playing with a Chinese 660 build later this spring. I also just have a Dremel pencil attachment and the grinding stones with it. I've been looking at some carbide cutters on ebay to have something a little more aggressive to start with for really changing the port.

I have an older 260 that had some idle and just off idle issues. I recently readjusted the carburetor after getting an 044 from mastermind and having him explain his recommended tuning process. What I did with the 260 was a little different and is below. I can't believe I had been using it for so long running so bad. It is like a completely different saw now.

Sorry if you know this already, but I found my 260 was not as easy to set up as my 044. Here's what I did. I'm not sure if it's because the carb needs rebuilt, or because the saw is a little tired, but it seems to cut good and now idles just fine. So after reading about your experience, maybe it's the nature of the beast?

1. Set all 3 screws at 1.25 turns out.

2. Start the saw and warm it up by running at mid throttle for a little bit.

3. Once its warmed up, set the idle with the LA screw. I was getting around 2800-2900 rpms. This will probably back out a few turns.

4. Then pull the trigger slightly to get to 5-10k rpms. Adjust the L screw to improve this transition.

Mine stumbled and died quite a few times before I got it right. As I leaned up the L screw to get better transition, I had to turn the LA screw more rich to keep the idle where I wanted. So it was a lot of back and forth.

5. Adjust the H screw to whatever max RPM you trust, while holding the throttle wide open.

Don't hold it there more than a few seconds to avoid burning up the cylinder. I set my max speed at just below 14k rpms. I think that's conservative for these saw, but I'm happy with it.

6. Re-adjust the LA or L screw slightly, if needed. Sometimes adjusting the H screw will throw those off just a small amount.
 

Khntr85

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Those changes should definitely help the flow. Did you have to modify the muffler at all because you funneled the exhaust port?

I haven't ported anything yet, but will be playing with a Chinese 660 build later this spring. I also just have a Dremel pencil attachment and the grinding stones with it. I've been looking at some carbide cutters on ebay to have something a little more aggressive to start with for really changing the port.

I have an older 260 that had some idle and just off idle issues. I recently readjusted the carburetor after getting an 044 from mastermind and having him explain his recommended tuning process. What I did with the 260 was a little different and is below. I can't believe I had been using it for so long running so bad. It is like a completely different saw now.

Sorry if you know this already, but I found my 260 was not as easy to set up as my 044. Here's what I did. I'm not sure if it's because the carb needs rebuilt, or because the saw is a little tired, but it seems to cut good and now idles just fine. So after reading about your experience, maybe it's the nature of the beast?

1. Set all 3 screws at 1.25 turns out.

2. Start the saw and warm it up by running at mid throttle for a little bit.

3. Once its warmed up, set the idle with the LA screw. I was getting around 2800-2900 rpms. This will probably back out a few turns.

4. Then pull the trigger slightly to get to 5-10k rpms. Adjust the L screw to improve this transition.

Mine stumbled and died quite a few times before I got it right. As I leaned up the L screw to get better transition, I had to turn the LA screw more rich to keep the idle where I wanted. So it was a lot of back and forth.

5. Adjust the H screw to whatever max RPM you trust, while holding the throttle wide open.

Don't hold it there more than a few seconds to avoid burning up the cylinder. I set my max speed at just below 14k rpms. I think that's conservative for these saw, but I'm happy with it.

6. Re-adjust the LA or L screw slightly, if needed. Sometimes adjusting the H screw will throw those off just a small amount.
Hey man thanks a lot!!!!

I don't have a good tach....I have a hardline(I believe is the brand) hour meter/tach on my ms461....I know I will be able to get a good idle reading with it though.....

The muffler outlet looked pretty open, but I may see about opening it a hair more....I did have to grind out the muffler gasket and the muffler, were it met up with the gasket....


I will try to re-adjust it when I get home....I haven't used the saw all that much as I just got it a few months ago.....I do know that the screws are at the factory "1-screw" out setting, I opened up the H just to be safe....

Once agian thanks for the info, I will try it when I get home, and report back...thanks Kyle!!!!
 

penzone

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Without a tach, it is a little harder to set the H screw. I would say 1 out is safe, but with the porting, I don't know. Don't take this the wrong way, but do you know what 4 stroking is? A lot of times the H screw can be set by ear safely if you leave it 4 stroking some when it's out of the wood and it just cleans up a little when you're in the cut and the engine is under load.
 

Khntr85

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Without a tach, it is a little harder to set the H screw. I would say 1 out is safe, but with the porting, I don't know. Don't take this the wrong way, but do you know what 4 stroking is? A lot of times the H screw can be set by ear safely if you leave it 4 stroking some when it's out of the wood and it just cleans up a little when you're in the cut and the engine is under load.
No offense taken, yes I tune to were they clean up in the cut....
 

Khntr85

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Ok had to order parts for a ms250 rebuild, so I had time to grind a chain....

this is a .325 Stihl RM....I didn't check the rakers yet,(I know how good your guys eyes are LOL)...I used the CBN...
IMG_2335.JPG
 

Khntr85

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Well any body doing any grinding, or finding any good tricks here lately???
 

Khntr85

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I ground 17 mower blades so far today. Should hit 25 mark by 11p
Hellnya glad to hear you staying busy brother!!!!


Been obsessively rebuilding saws here lately myself!!
 

Khntr85

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Anyway to get thread back on track after that slight derail LOL....


Got some beat up chains today...
IMG_2464.JPG

Here is just one cutter sharpened...I will add, I have never done these chains before, I did this one cutter and took a quick pic...
IMG_2467.JPG
 

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Anyway to get thread back on track after that slight derail LOL....


Got some beat up chains today...
View attachment 69383

Here is just one cutter sharpened...I will add, I have never done these chains before, I did this one cutter and took a quick pic...
View attachment 69384
I see my neighbor took his chains to you this time !!....lol
 
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