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huskihl

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Dont need to change any of the angles for chisel and semi-chisel chains?
What about for milling? I've had guys tell me they run all the way down to 0° for milling. Ive used 25° to 30°, milling oak with a husky 395xp and never had an issue.
Semi chisel can use some extra hook to help feed. 50/30 works well.

Regular chain works fine for milling. The 0-5-10° top plate is for leaving a finer finish
 

huskihl

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Dont need to change any of the angles for chisel and semi-chisel chains?
That’s another beauty about sharpening your own chains… There is no “need“ to do anything other than what you want as the guy doing it. Semi chisel isn’t as aggressive. So you can either give it more hook/top plate angle, lower the rakers more, or you can dog in all day and wear out your back and bar. Sharper angles cut quicker but dull faster. Low rakers can get chattery. Just need to find a combo of what works for you with what you’re cutting that day
 

Hinerman

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That’s another beauty about sharpening your own chains… There is no “need“ to do anything other than what you want as the guy doing it. Semi chisel isn’t as aggressive. So you can either give it more hook/top plate angle, lower the rakers more, or you can dog in all day and wear out your back and bar. Sharper angles cut quicker but dull faster. Low rakers can get chattery. Just need to find a combo of what works for you with what you’re cutting that day
You are reprimanded for being too diplomatic and not argumentative enough. Go sit in the corner, lol
 

Wilhelm

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I run 25/55. Seems like a good combination of staying sharp and cutting quick. I don’t mess with the slide/file tilt setting. I’ve never been able to tell a difference.

Like anything, sharper angles will cut quicker but dull quicker. And more blunt options will do the opposite
25° hard or frozen wood
30° general, mixed wood
35° soft wood

All at 55 or 60° head tilt.

Milling chains generally 5° to 10° top plate angle.

Philbert
25°/55° for bucking anything & everything on all chains.
Although, I mostly buck Turkey Oak and utilize full chisel 3/8" chains.
Works perfectly fine for noodling too.
For me going from the recommended 35/30° to 25° was a game changer, notable increase in durability with little to no decrease in cutting speed.

My milling experience is limited to slabbing up one wild cherry trunk, but I did it with a regular work chain and it fed good and left a decent surface finish.
It most likely helped that said loop is well used and ground back about 2/3rds to 3/4rs hence taking a narrower bite and "walking" less in the cut.

I set my full comp chains rakers with a file after grinding and use Archer FastFiler roller guides for doing it.
On the one full skip I am running I use a Husqvarna raker gauge.
 
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