Chainsaw grinder questions, tips, tricks, and pics!!!!

[penzone]

First off let me say, good for you sir.....I know it takes a lot to post pics of you work and tell people you are open to criticism, I know because I am the same way my friend....I learned along time if you want to learn/get good at something, leave your ego and pride at the door!!!!

Now as far as the tooth you pictured, good job, maybe next time just don't go quite as deep....I sometimes use a pass or two(depending on gullet condition), to strictly clean out the gullets......I can't wait to hear how it cuts!!!!

As far as the video, I also use the tap-tap method...however, i usually use about 3-6 taps, depending on the condition of the chain....if roughly 3-6 taps with the wheel don't get the tooth we're I want it, I just go to the next tooth and plan on doing another pass....

One more thing, I am constantly "tweaking" my technique.....I am always trying new things...see how that chain cuts, then if it works good(I bet it will), remember your settings....you can always, "go less/more deep into the gullet" for example and change things as you go....also don't forget to "check" the rakers!

Thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate it.

Do you only use 3-6 taps at a time to avoid overheating the tooth? Can you tell from the video if it looks like I'm putting too much heat into it? Is that something you can even see, meaning can it be overheated and not change color, or is a color change really the only time it is too hot?

As for the depth, I guess I need to adjust my expectations of what the tooth should look like. I started shallow and after a couple teeth, I decided to go deeper. Where the outside edge is, it looked like there was a hump just below the main cutting point. I thought I had a picture of this, but I can't find it. I need to go back and look at yours and others pictures again.

Does going too deep just weaken the tooth? Is there a chance of bending or shearing a tooth due to the depth? Or does it just cause them to wear quicker?

I'm planning on getting out Wednesday to drop an ash tree and get it cut up. I'll post pictures of my first chains with some wear on them to show how they are holding up.

Thanks again, this forum is going to make me much better!

 

[penzone]

Cleaning out my gullets and setting rakers this morning by hand, couldn't sleep.

Quick tip... don't do this

Ouch!

I have a couple dimples in my fingers from last night. None of them quite broke through the callous though. I wasn't using gloves because I was trying to get a lot of pictures. Next time, I will definitely be putting my gloves back on.

 

[Khntr85]

Thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate it.

Do you only use 3-6 taps at a time to avoid overheating the tooth? Can you tell from the video if it looks like I'm putting too much heat into it? Is that something you can even see, meaning can it be overheated and not change color, or is a color change really the only time it is too hot?

As for the depth, I guess I need to adjust my expectations of what the tooth should look like. I started shallow and after a couple teeth, I decided to go deeper. Where the outside edge is, it looked like there was a hump just below the main cutting point. I thought I had a picture of this, but I can't find it. I need to go back and look at yours and others pictures again.

Does going too deep just weaken the tooth? Is there a chance of bending or shearing a tooth due to the depth? Or does it just cause them to wear quicker?

I'm planning on getting out Wednesday to drop an ash tree and get it cut up. I'll post pictures of my first chains with some wear on them to show how they are holding up.

Thanks again, this forum is going to make me much better!

Yes, I do the 3-6 taps(and this is an estimate, just depends on the chain condition), to avoid heat....I will make more passes around the chain until it gets were I want it, then I address the gullets...

As far as going to deep, don't worry about that chain......cut with it first and see how she does....as long as you don't hit a nail or something it will hold up long enough....make sure you check your rakers and that chain will make you happy!!!

I have noticed that when I do the 10 degree tilt (that Oregon calls for), I get an almost needle point.......

The one single thing that @Philbert @Icepick69 @paragonbuilder and many others have tought me, is just to experiment....there are many "factory" chain settings, but they are just a standard to go by.....the more you and I use the grinder, the better we get a "feel" for it....the more we cut with those "experimental" chains, the better we know what cuts in our wood or situation better!!!!

Please let us know how the chain cuts, and if you grind any more chains before you do cut throw up some pics.....

Here is a Oregon chain that has the needle point I was talking about....


Here is a Stihl RS chain, this is the gullet shape I try to get...


Stihl RS ground at 30--55--0.....this is a great "recipe" for a work chain for me...


Here is a RS that has a real aggressive grind on it...

 

[Khntr85]

And here is a priceless pic philbert showed me long ago!!

 

[huskihl]

Yes, I do the 3-6 taps(and this is an estimate, just depends on the chain condition), to avoid heat....I will make more passes around the chain until it gets were I want it, then I address the gullets...

As far as going to deep, don't worry about that chain......cut with it first and see how she does....as long as you don't hit a nail or something it will hold up long enough....make sure you check your rakers and that chain will make you happy!!!

I have noticed that when I do the 10 degree tilt (that Oregon calls for), I get an almost needle point.......

The one single thing that @Philbert @Icepick69 @paragonbuilder and many others have tought me, is just to experiment....there are many "factory" chain settings, but they are just a standard to go by.....the more you and I use the grinder, the better we get a "feel" for it....the more we cut with those "experimental" chains, the better we know what cuts in our wood or situation better!!!!

Please let us know how the chain cuts, and if you grind any more chains before you do cut throw up some pics.....

Here is a Oregon chain that has the needle point I was talking about....
View attachment 63323

Here is a Stihl RS chain, this is the gullet shape I try to get...
View attachment 63321

Stihl RS ground at 30--55--0.....this is a great "recipe" for a work chain for me...
View attachment 63322

Here is a RS that has a real aggressive grind on it...
View attachment 63319

Your cutters look really good.
The 10° down angle thing...the only way it can have an effect is if you're only sharpening with the round part of the wheel. It puts a sharper angle on the inner edge of the top cutter opposite the working corner. Once you begin sharpening with the side of the wheel, the down angle has no effect, other than making the top plate angle 2° less.

 

[Khntr85]

Your cutters look really good.
The 10° down angle thing...the only way it can have an effect is if you're only sharpening with the round part of the wheel. It puts a sharper angle on the inner edge of the top cutter opposite the working corner. Once you begin sharpening with the side of the wheel, the down angle has no effect, other than making the top plate angle 2° less.

Thanks a lot I do appreciate it....and I will say I am just a beginner, I haven't even been grinding even year yet.....it's guys on here that have helped me a lot....the little tips and tricks you guys give us beginners put us miles ahead of someone with no help, so thanks to all of you guys, seriously!!!!

It took me awhile to get to were I feel I am grinding at the right depth...

I want to try and grind a Oregon chain with "0" down angle just to see if there is noticeable difference....I know some guys swear by it, some say it don't matter....

 

[huskihl]

Thanks a lot I do appreciate it....and I will say I am just a beginner, I haven't even been grinding even year yet.....it's guys on here that have helped me a lot....the little tips and tricks you guys give us beginners put us miles ahead of someone with no help, so thanks to all of you guys, seriously!!!!

It took me awhile to get to were I feel I am grinding at the right depth...

I want to try and grind a Oregon chain with "0" down angle just to see if there is noticeable difference....I know some guys swear by it, some say it don't matter....

I haven't done it much either. But I was trying to understand how the down angle actually worked with a grinder, and my conclusions were that the only difference would be if I only ground with the rounded portion of the wheel, since a that's how a file sharpens it.

 

[Philbert]

Some Oregon / Tecomec grinders have a 10 degree down angle setting, which involves tilting the vise (see figures 18, 19, 20):



Philbert

 

[penzone]

Here's another chain, .325, that I sharpened tonight. Still a little deeper than I think you guys are suggesting. But this chain was pretty wrecked and was leaving some odd burrs. Dropping just a touch lower moved them down off the cutting edge. You can kinda see the burrs down in the gullet in the second picture.

 

[Khntr85]

Here's another chain, .325, that I sharpened tonight. Still a little deeper than I think you guys are suggesting. But this chain was pretty wrecked and was leaving some odd burrs. Dropping just a touch lower moved them down off the cutting edge. You can kinda see the burrs down in the gullet in the second picture.

Looks like you are getting it figured out....

I will tell ya sometimes the gullets on chains can need some serious work...if the have been neglected half of the chains life, there is a lot of material that has to be removed sometimes....

 

[Sierrawoodsman]

I think the Oregon 511AX-(like the one pictured above) has a better vice set up for tilt than the new Model 620-120 I have. The 511AX vise does actually "tilt", Whereas the 620-120 just moves in and out almost like a wheel wear offset. However they do call this the tilt adjustment in the manual. I don't see how it actually accomplishes that though. Every time I try it succeed in screwing up my cutters and unable to get left and right cutters the same,so I just keep it set at 0° now and I haven't had any complaints yet in doing so. Any of you guys on here that have a 620 have similar issues?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Khntr85]

Calling @Douglas Ostrander he has one!!!

Now you guys correct me if I am wrong, but aren't the Stihl USG grinders like this too....

My Oregon 520 tilts, so the hydraulics must be the reason they don't tilt.....

 

[Douglas Ostrander]

I have a 620 and 511ax. I tend to over heat the cutters with 620. The arm return spring is so strong I can't judge the force I am putting on the cutter. I will take a micrometer to the left and right cutters to check length. One hand cutter you move inward and the other hand cutter you move outward. I want to say left hand you move inward and right hand outward. I need to look at my notes on the 620 to make sure. Have not used it much this year. Just warming up and thinking about cutting some more wood. But now dealing with the mud.

 

[Douglas Ostrander]

On my 620 grinding 404 I am see 0.004" average difference in cutter lenght from left and right cutters. I see 0.006" on my 511ax.

 

[Icepick69]

On my 620 grinding 404 I am see 0.004" average difference in cutter lenght from left and right cutters. I see 0.006" on my 511ax.

Is that a lot?

 

[Icepick69]

On my 620 grinding 404 I am see 0.004" average difference in cutter lenght from left and right cutters. I see 0.006" on my 511ax.

Check three of the right hand cutters, is there any difference?

 

[Douglas Ostrander]

Is that a lot?

Not a lot. The copy grinders do way worse. 0.020 difference without any adjustment to correct.

My left cutters are all the same length. The right hand cutters did vary a few thousands of an inch. Are you setting the down stop?

 

[Icepick69]

Not a lot. The copy grinders do way worse. 0.020 difference without any adjustment to correct.

My left cutters are all the same length. The right hand cutters did vary a few thousands of an inch. Are you setting the down stop?

Yes, I set the stop. But when I measure with calipers, I can't even get the same measurements on the same tooth.

 

[Sierrawoodsman]

Yes, I set the stop. But when I measure with calipers, I can't even get the same measurements on the same tooth.

.....and I thought I had problems! [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Khntr85]

I never use a caliper I use the @Philbert trick....I simply hold a left hand cutter up to a right hand cutter...do this at multiple spots in the chain and you can get the chain so that it always cuts straight...