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Deets066

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The Carlton loops I got from Cobey have been very tough.
No complaints here.
Big cutters, get lotsa life out of em.
image.jpeg

404 Carlton..... Long teeth but not as tall as 3/8. I touched it up with a 7/32 file and I don't like the top cutter angle. I could run my file a little farther down but I think it will have to turn into square to get the angle I want
 

Deets066

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View attachment 32927

404 Carlton..... Long teeth but not as tall as 3/8. I touched it up with a 7/32 file and I don't like the top cutter angle. I could run my file a little farther down but I think it will have to turn into square to get the angle I want
Terrible for clearing chips
 

Brewz

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View attachment 32927

404 Carlton..... Long teeth but not as tall as 3/8. I touched it up with a 7/32 file and I don't like the top cutter angle. I could run my file a little farther down but I think it will have to turn into square to get the angle I want
Looks the same as mine Deets, and I am not a fan.
I am thinking of hitting it with a 13/64th file to see how it looks
 

Chainsaw Jim

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View attachment 32927

404 Carlton..... Long teeth but not as tall as 3/8. I touched it up with a 7/32 file and I don't like the top cutter angle. I could run my file a little farther down but I think it will have to turn into square to get the angle I want
It looks like you just need to run it further down and it'll be perfect. You can see how the gullet is still a lump preventing the file from getting down where it needs to be. .
 

Hedgerow

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View attachment 32927

404 Carlton..... Long teeth but not as tall as 3/8. I touched it up with a 7/32 file and I don't like the top cutter angle. I could run my file a little farther down but I think it will have to turn into square to get the angle I want
That cutter is a horrible design..
But should work on hard stuff..
 

Brewz

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I used what I have learnt here and took to that Stihl chain I linked a picture of a few pages back.

Leveled out the raker front edge to help push chips, cleaned up the gullet and sharpened the factory grind with a 13/64th file.

Its now much sharper than out of the box.
I bumped it with my hand lightly, just brushed over it reaching over the bar for a flat file and it slit me open like a razor.

WP_20160909_15_20_37_Pro.jpg

WP_20160909_15_22_57_Pro.jpg
 

Chainsaw Jim

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I used what I have learnt here and took to that Stihl chain I linked a picture of a few pages back.

Leveled out the raker front edge to help push chips, cleaned up the gullet and sharpened the factory grind with a 13/64th file.

Its now much sharper than out of the box.
I bumped it with my hand lightly, just brushed over it reaching over the bar for a flat file and it slit me open like a razor.

View attachment 32958

View attachment 32959
Welllllcome to myyy world. Lol
I've learned the hard way about leaving sharpening tools anywhere beyond the reach of the bar.
I've also learned the hard way about wearing chaps. My shins are all scarred up from smacking myself while mishandling saws. Not while running, but while standing there flipping on the switch and pulling the choke lever.
 

Brewz

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Ha ha, most of my scars in the shins are from splitting wood in shorts and Chinese safety boots.

I figure if it opens me up that easy its sharp.

I am looking forward to trying these chains with the changes I have made to the rakers and the gullets to see if chip clearance improvements speed up the cut.

We don't get big chips from our timber when bucking. The timber is very hard and tight and the chips tend to be fine, so I doubt I will see a lot of improvement with the cleaned up gullets.

What interests me is chip clearing because the faster you can get those chips out, the faster you can make more
 

Chainsaw Jim

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When you get to gutting the gullets and changing the front angle of the rakers make sure to test a few cuts before touching the raker height. The more efficient the chain gets, the more important raker height gets. You will end up with a super grabby chain and hard wood will make it look like you did a plunge cut in a root ball.
 
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Brewz

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When you get to gutting the gullets and changing the front angle of the rakers make sure to test a few cuts before touching the raker height. The more efficient the chain gets, the more important raker height gets. You will end up with a super grabby chain and hard wood will make it look like you did a plunge cut in a root ball.
Yeah I am only tinkering with a couple chains to see if it improves them in the timber I cut.
I have kept the sharpening the same and rakers at .025
All I changed was cleaning up the gullet and flattening off the front of the rakers a bit to try and help push the chips out.

This will likely make the chain more susceptible to kick back so I have left a nice rounded top front corner on them. They are work chains, not race chains, butbi want them to cut as fast as they can.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Yeah I am only tinkering with a couple chains to see if it improves them in the timber I cut.
I have kept the sharpening the same and rakers at .025
All I changed was cleaning up the gullet and flattening off the front of the rakers a bit to try and help push the chips out.

This will likely make the chain more susceptible to kick back so I have left a nice rounded top front corner on them. They are work chains, not race chains, butbi want them to cut as fast as they can.
That's not going to cause more kick back risk unless you lower the rakers too far.
Here's a couple racing chain pics I strong arm robbed from some website to show by comparison that putting a few extra minutes into gullets and rakers doesn't necessarily make it a race chain. Race chains take a good day or two per loop.
pc270001-.jpg chain.jpg
 

Brewz

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View attachment 32927

404 Carlton..... Long teeth but not as tall as 3/8. I touched it up with a 7/32 file and I don't like the top cutter angle. I could run my file a little farther down but I think it will have to turn into square to get the angle I want
Deets.... I was sitting looking at my 7/32 file and 404 chains and wondering why I cant get a decent top cutting edge. Its like the file sits too high in the file holder.

Then it hit me.

My 7/32 file holder is an Oregon one and Oregon spec this size file for their 3/8 chain.
I am thinking that when used on 404 it holds the file too high on the tooth.

Just a theory???
 

Deets066

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Deets.... I was sitting looking at my 7/32 file and 404 chains and wondering why I cant get a decent top cutting edge. Its like the file sits too high in the file holder.

Then it hit me.

My 7/32 file holder is an Oregon one and Oregon spec this size file for their 3/8 chain.
I am thinking that when used on 404 it holds the file too high on the tooth.

Just a theory???
I file free hand, I could file all the way down to the tie strap and this cutter still won't have a good top cutter angle. I'll turn it to square and it'll be better
 

XP_Slinger

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I'm failing to see how removing raker material facing the cutter helps anything since it's the next raker behind the cutter that clears it's chips. Help me out guys...what am I missing?
 
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