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Chain grinding and filing thread

concretegrazer

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You’re losing a small chunk of skin from that sharp side cutter Mark....... that tooth looks really good

Hey Kevin. Have you had a chance to mess with those chains yet?


Hey Mark, how have you been? Nice looking tooth, and thanks for sharing.

I'm doing ok Mike. & you?
 

Chainsaw Jim

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A brand new chisel file can be destroyed trying to fix one single cutter when they're really bad or rocked. Maybe this will help those who've had this happen before.

I start by clearing the gullet to make room for the file.
20180625_092832.jpg

Then since I don't own a silvey I'll chuck up a stone wheel in my flex grinder to take the patina off the inside of the cutter. 20180624_193506.jpg

The polished surface prevents files from biting in and it dulls them quickly. Run at WOT or the stone wheel will wear down really fast. The surface is now ready for a file.
20180625_092949.jpg

First I'll grab an old or cheap Chinese file to rough it in. In this case I went too far with the hook. Always try to leave less hook than you need because you can always increase it a little without losing cutter length. Taking hook off requires losing some tooth like this one did.
20180624_194207.jpg

To finish I use a brand new swiss file with very light strokes. 20180624_194914.jpg
 

Rob Stafari

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It seems that a lot of you guys that have played with the angles all say that a “work” ground square chain will last the same a a RS....

I dont have a square grinder, but I have done a lot of experimenting with angles in the Oregon and USG grinders....

Knowing what the cutters profiles are, I can see why you guys say this....as you stated, the point on the round ground Chains is “unsupported”....

Dammit, every time I get on here I start trying to convince myself to get a square grinder, LMAO....

I know the feeling... I HAVE TO have one. Just about got a chainsaw mill setup together. Not only do I not want to hand file that many drive links. I want as fast a cutting work/mill chain as possible. From what I've read square is the way to go. Unless somebody somehow manages to talk me out of it, I give it a couple weeks at best
 

cease232

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I know the feeling... I HAVE TO have one. Just about got a chainsaw mill setup together. Not only do I not want to hand file that many drive links. I want as fast a cutting work/mill chain as possible. From what I've read square is the way to go. Unless somebody somehow manages to talk me out of it, I give it a couple weeks at best

I was milling with a loop of square filed chain the other day. It was flying through the wood. Literally the fastest I've ever milled. Hit a nail a couple feet in and broke off several teeth. It was painful to go back to my round ground chain after that.


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Skeans1

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I know the feeling... I HAVE TO have one. Just about got a chainsaw mill setup together. Not only do I not want to hand file that many drive links. I want as fast a cutting work/mill chain as possible. From what I've read square is the way to go. Unless somebody somehow manages to talk me out of it, I give it a couple weeks at best

What degree are you using for milling chains?


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Rob Stafari

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What degree are you using for milling chains?


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Was thinking somewhere in the 12-15 top plate angle region, but was going to seek the advice of those more knowledgeable than I when the time came. @junkman and @mdavlee both mill with square, any sugestions/advice?
 

Rob Stafari

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I was milling with a loop of square filed chain the other day. It was flying through the wood. Literally the fastest I've ever milled. Hit a nail a couple feet in and broke off several teeth. It was painful to go back to my round ground chain after that.


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I've heard 40% faster mill times with square. I've also heard some locals who don't know how to sharpen round or set up and tune a saw properly *b-word about how slow it is. I'm thinking I'll be able to set up and mill with my dolkita just as fast, if not faster than their ms880 and its going to be hilarious.
 
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