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Building a 290/390

MustangMike

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Need some advice guys, I'm in the dis assembly process, and I see my flywheel puller will not work on this saw. Flywheel nut came off remarkably easily. Any advice on how to remove the flywheel?

The engine seems to rotate very smoothly despite the slight scoring of the piston & cylinder. The carb and lots of other parts seem to be the same as the 044 (and it has a Walbro carb). Although there is no carb snorkel, the air filter does have a plug coming out in case you want to use one.

The Hi screw was a little less than a full turn out, not sure if that would be enough to have fried the motor. I'll look for other potential problems, and it could also be bad gas.

Also surprised to see the carb nuts directly against the carb!!!! Not the best set up IMO.

Can't believe how restrictive the mufflers are on these things, it must really inhibit performance, it is a wonder they actually run (and may have also contributed to the motor getting too hot).

Also hoping I can just swap the clutch drum with 460 parts I already have to convert it to sprocket drive.
 

MustangMike

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Thanks Dan, I got it. Was trying to hit the shaft with a piece of Oak between the crank & hammer, and it was not working.

Screwed the nut 3/4 on, put a socket over it, held the saw up by the handle and gave a gentle rap with the hammer and it came right off.
 

paragonbuilder

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Thanks Dan, I got it. Was trying to hit the shaft with a piece of Oak between the crank & hammer, and it was not working.

Screwed the nut 3/4 on, put a socket over it, held the saw up by the handle and gave a gentle rap with the hammer and it came right off.

Yeah the wood absorbs the shock which is what seems to free it. I don't use the nut cuz they are thin and don't have many threads and so can break them.
Glad you got it!


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Brian Simonseth

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Jeremy just leave all MS290 stickers on the saw to screw with people like I did four years ago :campeon2:

005abc.jpg
 

MustangMike

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Glad my next door neighbor was home to help me get the clutch off. Work a lot easier with one guy holding the saw down, and the other putting tension on the wrench and smacking it with a hammer! Seem to be the only way to get those darn things off. And the nut is so shallow, that if you try to do it alone it just keeps popping off.

The good news is I can not detect any play in the bearings, and it seems to spin smooth as silk. The piston scoring seems very light, so I'm gonna keep the bearings.
 

fearofpavement

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To get the flywheels off, I loosen the nut with my butterfly impact, screw the nut back on finger tight, back it off one turn or so, put a deep well socket on it, pick up the saw with a pair of duck bill pliers on a flywheel fin (about an inch above the bench) and whack the socket with a 12 oz brass hammer. One whack does it. Hitting the socket puts the imact load on the flange nut so the actual end of the crank isn't harmed.
 

Khntr85

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Hey great thread ya got goin..... I have a ms290 and when she does, I want to make it a 390.....do you guys always rebuild using OEM parts..... Have any of you ever tried buying the whole engine assembly?????
 

paragonbuilder

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Hey great thread ya got goin..... I have a ms290 and when she does, I want to make it a 390.....do you guys always rebuild using OEM parts..... Have any of you ever tried buying the whole engine assembly?????

I've used the huztl engine assembly.


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Khntr85

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Funny you say that, as I put a farmer tec whole engine in a ms180 and it is doing great.... I have been limbing and bucking smaller pieces of hickory and it's been doing fine...it has about 6 tanks ran threw it and gets better with each tank....
 

paragonbuilder

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Funny you say that, as I put a farmer tec whole engine in a ms180 and it is doing great.... I have been limbing and bucking smaller pieces of hickory and it's been doing fine...it has about 6 tanks ran threw it and gets better with each tank....

I have yet to have an problem with their products...


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idiotwithasaw

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As cheap as nachi bearings are I would go ahead and replace the seals and bearings while you have is stripped that far. It's a 6203 c3 bearing btw. Farmer tech seals will work fine, I don't remember the price of oem. But I've tore several of these clams hell saws down and have had about 50/50 luck with reusing old seals. Also recommend vac testing it too especially if you reuse the seals.
 

MustangMike

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I plan to replace the seals, but not the bearings. For $35.- (P&C&seals) I'm gonna give the Huztl/Farmer Tech a shot. If I don't like it, I'll go OEM.

It seems most people have have good luck with it for this model saw, so ... I'm not looking to break the bank on this one.
 

jake wells

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I plan to replace the seals, but not the bearings. For $35.- (P&C&seals) I'm gonna give the Huztl/Farmer Tech a shot. If I don't like it, I'll go OEM.

It seems most people have have good luck with it for this model saw, so ... I'm not looking to break the bank on this one.
might break the old back after about a hr instead of the bank they are not the lightest saw to cut with.
 

Adirondackstihl

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I'm just waiting for the opportune moment to put the bearings in the toaster oven so I can get rollin on this build.
Seems like there isn't enough time during the week for me to do much with saws.
I'd rather hang out with the family.
Maybe tonight I'll fire up the oven when the wife goes to bed ;)
 
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