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Braapp-Shack/SCARR Engineering 394 build, DONE :)

jmssaws

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I don't yet unfortunatelty. I have been getting by with careful use of extended straight burrs for a dremel...don't laugh.. LOL!
Most of the work I do in the transfers is done with a straight handpiece and a long burr.
Need a ra to get the corners and roof right though
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Yes, I can see where the RA piece would make certain aspects of changing port timing much easier. Transfer roof corners are quite challenging with the straight burrs but I have managed to do it, although I'm sure I could do a better job of it with the RA piece. One of many things on my "to buy" list.

Awhile back I ponied up for the OEM case splitter tool. I did make a splitter before that and it did work but not real smoothly. Using the OEM tool I found it to be a worthwhile investment.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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OK guys, things got a little sideways with my available funds due to previous commitments and an unexpected expense at home. But fear not, things will be back on track in 2-3 weeks and building will resume. I have decided to send my cylinder to mdavlee for machining. This will be the first time having a cylinder machined for me, and I can't think of a better saw to pop that cherry than this 394. I'm going to take my time and do it as best I can.

And Jason, being that I am working with only extended straight burrs, I think I would be wise to back off those numbers you posted about the saw in your vid by a degree or two. The possibility of grinding through the ex and trans roofs worries me a little bit, particularly on the trans since I do not have an RA hand piece. I don't want to ruin a good 394 cylinder.

So that's where things sit as of now, next step will be to send the cylinder off for machine work. :)
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Transfer covers are nice for guys like us that are limited to Dremel porting. I was going to buy a RA tool last spring but I ran out of saws to port so I lost the urge...lol


Good thing the 394 has such a big bore and large transfers! LOL!


What are thoughts on the intake port guys? Just lower the floor to the desired timing or could it benefit from more intake area as well? I don't want to be thought of as trying to pry trade secrets from you guys, so if you'd rather not say that is completely OK by me. You guys have already been more than generous with your hard earned port timing recipes and I really appreciate that!
 

srcarr52

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Good thing the 394 has such a big bore and large transfers! LOL!


What are thoughts on the intake port guys? Just lower the floor to the desired timing or could it benefit from more intake area as well? I don't want to be thought of as trying to pry trade secrets from you guys, so if you'd rather not say that is completely OK by me. You guys have already been more than generous with your hard earned port timing recipes and I really appreciate that!

Always max the time area of an intake port before adding more duration. More intake duration takes away from crankcase compression so it's in your benefit to keep the intake duration short.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Always max the time area of an intake port before adding more duration. More intake duration takes away from crankcase compression so it's in your benefit to keep the intake duration short.

Meaning increase area as much as can be reasonably done, square it up, but leave timing where it settles after cylinder base machine work?
 

Big1066ih

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OK guys, things got a little sideways with my available funds due to previous commitments and an unexpected expense at home. But fear not, things will be back on track in 2-3 weeks and building will resume. I have decided to send my cylinder to mdavlee for machining. This will be the first time having a cylinder machined for me, and I can't think of a better saw to pop that cherry than this 394. I'm going to take my time and do it as best I can.

And Jason, being that I am working with only extended straight burrs, I think I would be wise to back off those numbers you posted about the saw in your vid by a degree or two. The possibility of grinding through the ex and trans roofs worries me a little bit, particularly on the trans since I do not have an RA hand piece. I don't want to ruin a good 394 cylinder.

So that's where things sit as of now, next step will be to send the cylinder off for machine work. :)
@mdavlee did my 394 cylinder, should be a runner
 

paragonbuilder

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Meaning increase area as much as can be reasonably done, square it up, but leave timing where it settles after cylinder base machine work?

Yes. You may still need to add timing, but always add area before duration. The sooner the intake closes the more primary compression there is going to be to fill the cylinder.
 

jmssaws

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Where are the transfers now?

Don't have 040 or 050 cut out of the chamber or you will never get the transfers back where they need to be without a ra.

020 out should get you 200lb and not have to raise everything as far.

100 120 77-78 works good or you can go higher and it will run better.

The recipe I gave is close to what Shaun gave me to build a monster woods ported work saw and I'd take the Pepsi challenge with a equally ported 395 any time.
A 394 has more attitude and anger in it than a 395. There just a stronger saw
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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I don't know where the timing numbers are now. I didn't degree it before tearing it down for the overhaul. All the ports appear to be unaltered though and I doubt the guy I got it from would have spent the money on a port job judging by all the odds and ends that were neglected on that saw.
 

XP_Slinger

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I don't know where the timing numbers are now. I didn't degree it before tearing it down for the overhaul. All the ports appear to be unaltered though and I doubt the guy I got it from would have spent the money on a port job judging by all the odds and ends that were neglected on that saw.

Put it together and get the current timing numbers!!! I know you're held up at the moment...just bustin chops
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Made some progress last night. Got the new bearings and seals in and the case assembled. Next step is to get my squish measurements and send the cylinder to Shaun to have the base and squish cut. He is also going to raise the transfers for me as I have been informed that I will not be able to do it myself with the tools I have at this time. I figure, this is going to be my badass saw and I want it built to the max! I'll do the exhaust and intake myself. We have more weather coming so I'll probably be spending extra time at work plowing snow in the coming days.. Thinking I will be able to send the cylinder off to Shaun some time next week. :)
IMG_20170214_040134019.jpg IMG_20170214_040147352.jpg IMG_20170214_041338433.jpg
 

jmssaws

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Made some progress last night. Got the new bearings and seals in and the case assembled. Next step is to get my squish measurements and send the cylinder to Shaun to have the base and squish cut. He is also going to raise the transfers for me as I have been informed that I will not be able to do it myself with the tools I have at this time. I figure, this is going to be my badass saw and I want it built to the max! I'll do the exhaust and intake myself. We have more weather coming so I'll probably be spending extra time at work plowing snow in the coming days.. Thinking I will be able to send the cylinder off to Shaun some time next week. :)
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If he cuts out his normal amount it will be a stupid strong saw.
 
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