Do you have a right angle hand peice?
Most of the work I do in the transfers is done with a straight handpiece and a long burr.I don't yet unfortunatelty. I have been getting by with careful use of extended straight burrs for a dremel...don't laugh.. LOL!
PM sent @mdavleeEasiest thing would be to send the jug out while you're waiting and get it machined some.
Transfer covers are nice for guys like us that are limited to Dremel porting. I was going to buy a RA tool last spring but I ran out of saws to port so I lost the urge...lol
Good thing the 394 has such a big bore and large transfers! LOL!
What are thoughts on the intake port guys? Just lower the floor to the desired timing or could it benefit from more intake area as well? I don't want to be thought of as trying to pry trade secrets from you guys, so if you'd rather not say that is completely OK by me. You guys have already been more than generous with your hard earned port timing recipes and I really appreciate that!
Always max the time area of an intake port before adding more duration. More intake duration takes away from crankcase compression so it's in your benefit to keep the intake duration short.
@mdavlee did my 394 cylinder, should be a runnerOK guys, things got a little sideways with my available funds due to previous commitments and an unexpected expense at home. But fear not, things will be back on track in 2-3 weeks and building will resume. I have decided to send my cylinder to mdavlee for machining. This will be the first time having a cylinder machined for me, and I can't think of a better saw to pop that cherry than this 394. I'm going to take my time and do it as best I can.
And Jason, being that I am working with only extended straight burrs, I think I would be wise to back off those numbers you posted about the saw in your vid by a degree or two. The possibility of grinding through the ex and trans roofs worries me a little bit, particularly on the trans since I do not have an RA hand piece. I don't want to ruin a good 394 cylinder.
So that's where things sit as of now, next step will be to send the cylinder off for machine work.
Meaning increase area as much as can be reasonably done, square it up, but leave timing where it settles after cylinder base machine work?
Yes. You may still need to add timing, but always add area before duration. The sooner the intake closes the more primary compression there is going to be to fill the cylinder.
I don't know where the timing numbers are now. I didn't degree it before tearing it down for the overhaul. All the ports appear to be unaltered though and I doubt the guy I got it from would have spent the money on a port job judging by all the odds and ends that were neglected on that saw.
If he cuts out his normal amount it will be a stupid strong saw.Made some progress last night. Got the new bearings and seals in and the case assembled. Next step is to get my squish measurements and send the cylinder to Shaun to have the base and squish cut. He is also going to raise the transfers for me as I have been informed that I will not be able to do it myself with the tools I have at this time. I figure, this is going to be my badass saw and I want it built to the max! I'll do the exhaust and intake myself. We have more weather coming so I'll probably be spending extra time at work plowing snow in the coming days.. Thinking I will be able to send the cylinder off to Shaun some time next week.
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If he cuts out his normal amount it will be a stupid strong saw.