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Braapp-Shack/SCARR Engineering 394 build, DONE :)

drf256

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That is pure BADASS Jason! That is my goal right there....Don't know if I'll hit that mark though
Good looking build.

Jason has shítloads of experience and I've heard him say that the 394 is one of the most time consuming/difficult jugs he does. I know I couldn't come close either.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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You aint' whistlin' Dixie, that IS alot of grinding!

I don't have the ability/machinery to turn a popup piston, cut squishbands and mill decks. All I can do to up the compression is delete the base gasket. So really, after I raise exhaust and transfer some I'm only bringing it back to stock compression, maybe a tad less if I raise things past stock before the delete.

I'm going to go over that muffler with flat black. Grabbed gloss by mistake and I think it looks hideous. Trivial cosmetic thing, yes.. but still. LOL!

Going to GKS tomorrow to get crank bearings, seals, wristpin bearing, gasket set, intake spacer (because I'm not even going to mess around with the old one as I have no idea how old it is) and a couple other odds n ends. Hopefully all will be in stock, they are usually pretty good about stocking parts as long as what you are looking for isn't too out of date or obscure. Anyway, should have the bottom end together in the next couple of days.

Once I get the parts that need to be new, I'll put up a list of some of the other odds and ends I am looking for.
 

paragonbuilder

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You aint' whistlin' Dixie, that IS alot of grinding!

I don't have the ability/machinery to turn a popup piston, cut squishbands and mill decks. All I can do to up the compression is delete the base gasket. So really, after I raise exhaust and transfer some I'm only bringing it back to stock compression, maybe a tad less if I raise things past stock before the delete.
You should still gain compression, the extra space in the squish band is lost, thereby reducing chamber cc's.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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True, I hadn't thought of it that way. Makes sense. My 357 and 372 did well with BG deletes and raising ex and trans higher than stock before the delete. Of course I've seen others who port saws for a living build faster saws than mine, but I'm still happy with the gains I achieved.
 

jmssaws

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You gain compression deleting the gasket but bleed some off by raising the exhaust.

It will still run good.

What timing are you aiming for?
 

srcarr52

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You aint' whistlin' Dixie, that IS alot of grinding!

I don't have the ability/machinery to turn a popup piston, cut squishbands and mill decks. All I can do to up the compression is delete the base gasket. So really, after I raise exhaust and transfer some I'm only bringing it back to stock compression, maybe a tad less if I raise things past stock before the delete.

I'm going to go over that muffler with flat black. Grabbed gloss by mistake and I think it looks hideous. Trivial cosmetic thing, yes.. but still. LOL!

Going to GKS tomorrow to get crank bearings, seals, wristpin bearing, gasket set, intake spacer (because I'm not even going to mess around with the old one as I have no idea how old it is) and a couple other odds n ends. Hopefully all will be in stock, they are usually pretty good about stocking parts as long as what you are looking for isn't too out of date or obscure. Anyway, should have the bottom end together in the next couple of days.

Once I get the parts that need to be new, I'll put up a list of some of the other odds and ends I am looking for.

Ya know, there are people on this forum who will do a lot of mail in machine work for people... like me.
Don't go too crazy on the exhaust, no more than 162 duration and that's only if you can raise the transfers up far enough to support it. Same goes for the intake, they don't need a lot of timing there either... keep it under square.
 

mdavlee

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Ya know, there are people on this forum who will do a lot of mail in machine work for people... like me.
Don't go too crazy on the exhaust, no more than 162 duration and that's only if you can raise the transfers up far enough to support it. Same goes for the intake, they don't need a lot of timing there either... keep it under square.

I used his service a lot until I got a lathe of my own.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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You gain compression deleting the gasket but bleed some off by raising the exhaust.

It will still run good.

What timing are you aiming for?

You gave me a recommendation for timing numbers in another thread awhile back. You advised 103/120/78 for numbers to shoot for after the BG delete. I'm planning to follow that advice. I am not as experienced in coming up with a recipe from scratch as you guys are. Lucky for me you and several others have been kind enough to lend advice on good target timing numbers and that is allowing me to get better at the process without ruining cylinders. And it IS much appreciated! :)

In other news: I just had an unexpected $300 expense I wasn't counting on pop up today. The money I had set aside to buy a batch of 394 parts tomorrow has to be spent on that... OK I'll be straight with you guys, my main TV in my house took a crap this morning, a 50" Sharp and it was 2 DAYS out of warrantee! UGH! I brought our old 32" out and I can't deal with it! LOL! But, payday is next thursday, I'll get some parts then.
 
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RIDE-RED 350r

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Do you think I will retain enough compression with the exhaust at 99 just doing the BG delete? If I recall, I set the exhaust on my 372 at 101, but that's a different engine and of course we can't assume what works for one cylinder will work on another. But my rookie mind thinks the exhaust at 99 degrees might be just a tad aggressive for a plain-Jane BG delete?

Let me re-phrase the first part of that question... Do you think I will retain at least stock compression?
 

paragonbuilder

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Do you think I will retain enough compression with the exhaust at 99 just doing the BG delete? If I recall, I set the exhaust on my 372 at 101, but that's a different engine and of course we can't assume what works for one cylinder will work on another. But my rookie mind thinks the exhaust at 99 degrees might be just a tad aggressive for a plain-Jane BG delete?

Let me re-phrase the first part of that question... Do you think I will retain at least stock compression?

How's about a little trick...
Buy an extra piston. Set your numbers conservative. Say at the 103 numbers Jason gave you. Run it. Then file the edge of the piston enough to raise the exhaust 1 or 2 degrees. You can do the same on the transfers. See how it runs. If you like it better, adjust the jug with the stock piston to the numbers with the modded piston, then run the modded piston again and see if it got better again. Repeat. When it's too far, put the stock piston back in and you have what you liked best.
It's not perfect, but it saves needing a new jug just to try it.
 

paragonbuilder

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For me I could care less how much compression it has. If it runs better at 150 than 200 I'll take the 150 saw.
Shoot I have a 350 with a muffler mod at 105 psi that hangs with mildly ported 346's at 175psi...
Kinda blows my mind...
 
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