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Best substitute for bar and chain oil

Wilhelm

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Dedicated B&C oil and it's so called tackyness is an overly hyped up thing.

I have yet to swap out a bar due to wear and @Philbert once commented that my worn out chains tie straps "look good".
Ask me how much B&C oil I have used during all my chainsaw using life! ;)

Engine oil does fine, 0W30 up to 15W60.
Heavy duty gearbox oil does great 180 up to 320 viscosity, although it is a little too thick in the winter when I use 68.

Don't overthink "oil" guys, life is complicated enough! :)
 

wesamswailem

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“ Life is complicated enough “ that’s a golden phrase [emoji4][emoji4]
So manual transmission is better than heavy truck [emoji16] ?? Or both are the same
Still am not complicated but I like to do my homework


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Wilhelm

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“ Life is complicated enough “ that’s a golden phrase [emoji4][emoji4]
So manual transmission is better than heavy truck [emoji16] ?? Or both are the same
Still am not complicated but I like to do my homework


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Car manual transmission oil is like 68 or so, I think heavy truck transmission oil is around 85 - small difference, but if You can get either at similar prices go with the heavier oil.
Otherwise get what's more affordable.

I once purchased engine oil on sale for half the price of what B&C oil comes to, it works fine and there is no reason why it wouldn't - it's a lubricant.

B&C oil is a once around and gone media, all You need is a thin layer between the bars rails and chains drive links/tie straps!
 

wesamswailem

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That’s exactly what was I thinking to do till I read the “ tackifier “ and the need to stick the oil to the chain while it travels at the bar tip and soooooo on [emoji85]


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legdelimber

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Well good morning live from the Nile [emoji4][emoji4]
The tree is a nice color. What is it? I'll guess that it stains paint and things well too!
 

Philbert

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till I read the “ tackifier “
The ‘tackifier’ helps reduce the slinging off of oil, but is not critical, in my opinion. You might need to use more oil without it.

A lot of people focus on lubricating the drive links and tie straps as they rub along the groove and guide rails of the bar.

But critical lubrication is at the center flange of each rivet, which is hardened, and acts like a bearing. Not enough oil there, and the parts will wear quickly, leading to ‘chain stretch’.

Ideally, purpose designed B&C oil is formulated for all these things. If you have to improvise, you may need to choose certain characteristics.

Philbert
 

SpaceBus

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Just ask for SAE 30 mineral oil (or SAE 10 mineral oil if you are cutting in colder temperatures).80W90 is way to thick,it might be ok when cutting in the middle of July or August but i can't imagine a chainsaw oil pump is able to move it during winter.
He does live in one of the hottest places on earth...
 

wesamswailem

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He does live in one of the hottest places on earth...

Me !!!!
Apparently you didn’t visit Egypt before [emoji16]
We have have only July and August that have highest temp. mid 40sh C max .
Winter is cold reach 2 C


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5155

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Curious what the merchant where you buy a saw says to use.
I've seen guys that use gear oil, smelled them too.
 

Egg Shooter

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Just ask for SAE 30 mineral oil (or SAE 10 mineral oil if you are cutting in colder temperatures).80W90 is way to thick,it might be ok when cutting in the middle of July or August but i can't imagine a chainsaw oil pump is able to move it during winter.
Full synthetic 80w90 will pump fine in the winter here in Michigan.
 

LouCi4er

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Full synthetic 80w90 will pump fine in the winter here in Michigan.

I believe you.I just never tested it because full synthetic 80W90 here in Greece cost up to 12€ per litre.It never crossed my mine to try it as a bar and chain oil because of the price.Echo,Makita,Stihl and Husqvarna dedicated bar and chain oil,all are from 4 to 5€ per litre.Even Oregon is 14€ for the 5 litre.My Stihl dealer selling a 4 litre bottle SAE 30 oil for 8€.
 

Yukon Stihl

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I believe you.I just never tested it because full synthetic 80W90 here in Greece cost up to 12€ per litre.It never crossed my mine to try it as a bar and chain oil because of the price.Echo,Makita,Stihl and Husqvarna dedicated bar and chain oil,all are from 4 to 5€ per litre.Even Oregon is 14€ for the 5 litre.My Stihl dealer selling a 4 litre bottle SAE 30 oil for 8€.
Being from Greece have you considered olive oil? How about a non food grade ?
 

Kiwioilboiler

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Wilhelm

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That’s exactly what was I thinking to do till I read the “ tackifier “ and the need to stick the oil to the chain while it travels at the bar tip and soooooo on [emoji85]


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Mineral oil sticks to clean metal surfaces "by nature". ;)

Also:
1 - tacky oil will resist being pumped more than "normal" oil
2 - the tackier the B&C oil the more drag it causes while non/less tacky oil will lube and actually promote lesser drag
3 - worth considering, how much space is there between a chains individual components, which oil will penetrate all crevices faster the tacky or the less tacky one?

I am by no means against using dedicated B&C oil!
But if it's more expensive than other mineral oils I'll pass.
Budget B&C oils seem to be fairly non tacky anyway, I bet they are recycled used oil in many cases which I don't mind if the pricing reflects that.
 

Egg Shooter

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I believe you.I just never tested it because full synthetic 80W90 here in Greece cost up to 12€ per litre.It never crossed my mine to try it as a bar and chain oil because of the price.Echo,Makita,Stihl and Husqvarna dedicated bar and chain oil,all are from 4 to 5€ per litre.Even Oregon is 14€ for the 5 litre.My Stihl dealer selling a 4 litre bottle SAE 30 oil for 8€.
I don't use it anymore. I run a semi synthetic bar oil. Year around rated. No changing bar oils from winter to summer.
 

Egg Shooter

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