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Poleman

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Been a busy summer with so many other things going on I haven’t been able too. I want to get out and run several saws with the 372’s at the top. Have a couple new ideas on carb mods and setup I wanna try.
 

Czed

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Lame effort here on my part, I know. But on this one I just folded back that interior piece and then put the deflector back on. Noticed a difference though.

Just had to get this up and running for a guy. That's a 272 top end sitting there. It does fit under the gray-orange cover fine, just not bolted down in the pic.

View attachment 195876


View attachment 195877
Looks good i cut the metal back to
Prevent the edges from
Slowing down the flow.
Does it help?
i have no idea
But with them opened up i can feel a big difference in torque.
You still have a lot of 2 series work?
I know several including me that went back to them.
Simpler saws
Reasonable parts.
 

Czed

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Been a busy summer with so many other things going on I haven’t been able too. I want to get out and run several saws with the 372’s at the top. Have a couple new ideas on carb mods and setup I wanna try.
When your back in bidness I'll try to get a couple
Dolly 7900 carbs to you
For my ported 372s
The one you did works excellent.
 

Spike60

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Looks good i cut the metal back to
Prevent the edges from
Slowing down the flow.
Does it help?
i have no idea
But with them opened up i can feel a big difference in torque.
You still have a lot of 2 series work?
I know several including me that went back to them.
Simpler saws
Reasonable parts.

As far as the shop goes, we do still see a fair amount of them in both Husky and Jonsered. There's just so many around here. Jonsereds seem to dominate the early twin coil saws where the later single coil saws are more likely to be Huskys as the local market was shifting a bit. Awful lot of 630s were sold around here. Lot of shops don't like to work on the older saws, but we do. And we have a lot of parts for them, including some NLA bits to keep things going. Some shops have younger techs that don't know these saws and they don't have parts, so they turn them down. We know them front to back, have plenty of parts and don't think of them as "old saws".

As you know these 2 series saws have many more variations within the model range as opposed to the 372/2171 chassis that replaced them. There's how many starter pulleys vs just the one on the 3 series as one example. All the different intakes. Even the 162/630/266 "looks the same" intake has 3 variations with different hardware. So, knowledge and experience come in handy for us cause we've been doing them so long it's all in our heads.

Personally I enjoy them as much as the 372 chassis and run them equally. 372 has an anti-vibe advantage. Other than that it's a coin toss for me. But for whatever reason I always seem to grab the twin coil saws over the singles on the 2 series.

For guys with limited experience or resources, 372's are likely a easier direction to go in as far as sourcing parts goes. And there's a lot of extra value here in this thread that you started cause we're sharing info on all the individual parts not just the complete kit/clone deal.

And even within the 2 series it's much easier to source parts for the second generation single coil saws than the early twin coil models, so that needs to be considered. At least for the newer 61/268/272 Huskys. Jonsered specific stuff is getting scarce quick for all of them.
 

Heliot

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Hey all,
may i ask a question concerning Huztl G372 (without XP)? Didn't post so much in this forum up to now...
Greetings from Germany!
 

Czed

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Hey all,
may i ask a question concerning Huztl G372 (without XP)? Didn't post so much in this forum up to now...
Greetings from Germany!
Sure
This thread is for anything
We even talk about stihls.
 

Heliot

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Hehe ok.
I bought a G372 which was already assembled by the dealer. Good coil i it and it is already setup good i think. Put in gas and oil and ran it a bit. No cuts up to now. It is supposed to be a experimental project during the next week. ;)
I realized, that the crankseal between the two halfes becomes "wet" and it seems that there comes a very small amout of oil out. It's no real leak...at the moment.
Do you have experience with this? Is it "normal"?
 

Czed

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As far as the shop goes, we do still see a fair amount of them in both Husky and Jonsered. There's just so many around here. Jonsereds seem to dominate the early twin coil saws where the later single coil saws are more likely to be Huskys as the local market was shifting a bit. Awful lot of 630s were sold around here. Lot of shops don't like to work on the older saws, but we do. And we have a lot of parts for them, including some NLA bits to keep things going. Some shops have younger techs that don't know these saws and they don't have parts, so they turn them down. We know them front to back, have plenty of parts and don't think of them as "old saws".

As you know these 2 series saws have many more variations within the model range as opposed to the 372/2171 chassis that replaced them. There's how many starter pulleys vs just the one on the 3 series as one example. All the different intakes. Even the 162/630/266 "looks the same" intake has 3 variations with different hardware. So, knowledge and experience come in handy for us cause we've been doing them so long it's all in our heads.

Personally I enjoy them as much as the 372 chassis and run them equally. 372 has an anti-vibe advantage. Other than that it's a coin toss for me. But for whatever reason I always seem to grab the twin coil saws over the singles on the 2 series.

For guys with limited experience or resources, 372's are likely a easier direction to go in as far as sourcing parts goes. And there's a lot of extra value here in this thread that you started cause we're sharing info on all the individual parts not just the complete kit/clone deal.

And even within the 2 series it's much easier to source parts for the second generation single coil saws than the early twin coil models, so that needs to be considered. At least for the newer 61/268/272 Huskys. Jonsered specific stuff is getting scarce quick for all of them.
Jonsereds was always a rare bird here.
In the mid 80s when i started cutting and working on saws
There was 910/920/930 for the timber guy's
They had great rep.
I usually came across 61 and 266s
What i remember most was guy's would not give up their 266s
They'd spend new saw price's fixing damaged or fried one's.
That wasn't common around here.
The 268 then the 272 came along and built a good rep.
The heavy timber guy's had usually a 266 or 268/272 for midsize tree's
And a 181/281/288 for heavy falling.
Now with ported saws
The gap is much smaller.
I do my heavy falling with a 266 or 372.
My 288s don't get run much.
I really think the powerband of the 266 is what's
Best about it.
 

Czed

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Hehe ok.
I bought a G372 which was already assembled by the dealer. Good coil i it and it is already setup good i think. Put in gas and oil and ran it a bit. No cuts up to now. It is supposed to be a experimental project during the next week. ;)
I realized, that the crankseal between the two halfes becomes "wet" and it seems that there comes a very small amout of oil out. It's no real leak...at the moment.
Do you have experience with this? Is it "normal"?
Post a pic
Which side is it?
If it is leaking you should have ideling issue's.
Start the saw let it warm up
Then slowly turn the saw over
You'll find an airleak right quick.
All of mine have exceptional oilers
I have to keep them at minimum
Or they'll
Empty as the fuel does.
And some oil does splash back on the clutch side seal.
 
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Heliot

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I‘ve put an unmodded BB kit on it a few moments ago.
Then you can see what happens after 1 or 2 minutes running the saw.
IMG_6123.JPG
Visible on both sides.
 

Czed

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I‘ve put an unmodded BB kit on it a few moments ago.
Then you can see what happens after 1 or 2 minutes running the saw.
View attachment 195975
Visible on both sides.
Make sure the bar plate is flush against the case
If not
The oil will gush out behind the bar plate.
It's a common issue
With am saws
Hopefully that's all it is
And you can flatten it out.
I had to pop the flywheel off one the 4mm case
Bolts were not tight enough.
And the bar oil was leaking.
 

Heliot

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The oil doesn’t come from the bar. It’s coming out of the case. That’s the problem...[emoji43]

Edit: I also reduced the Oiler. It’s really good working. [emoji51]
 

Czed

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The oil doesn’t come from the bar. It’s coming out of the case. That’s the problem...[emoji43]

Edit: I also reduced the Oiler. It’s really good working. [emoji51]
Try tightening the case fasteners
You'll have to pull the recoil and flywheel.
Or if the dealer's close
Take it back
If there's any warranty at all.
 

Heliot

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Case screw which can be reached „normal“ are tight.
How can i get the flywheel of without tools? [emoji85]

EDIT: Was bought online...don’t want to send it back! If this all doesn’t help split the case? [emoji31]Unfortunately i don’t have the toolkit for doing this....
 

gurwald

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Looks like there is lots of oil on the clutch side, but if you are sure the tank is leaking then yes pull the fly wheel.
You can probably whack it with a hammer a few time, it should come lose on a new saw. If you can see the key try 0 and 180 degrees from the key on the flywheel. But be careful dont break something...
 

Czed

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Case screw which can be reached „normal“ are tight.
How can i get the flywheel of without tools?
emoji85.png


EDIT: Was bought online...don’t want to send it back! If this all doesn’t help split the case?
emoji31.png
Unfortunately i don’t have the toolkit for doing this....
After removing the recoil and the loosening 13mm nut
Leave the nut on but loose.
I run a shoestring behind the flywheel
I lift the saw up with the string
And tap the flywheel with a rubber mallet.
I've never damaged one doing this.
 

Czed

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Hopefully it doesn't need a new case gasket
You'll have to split the case.
 

taplinhill

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As far as the shop goes, we do still see a fair amount of them in both Husky and Jonsered. There's just so many around here. Jonsereds seem to dominate the early twin coil saws where the later single coil saws are more likely to be Huskys as the local market was shifting a bit. Awful lot of 630s were sold around here. Lot of shops don't like to work on the older saws, but we do. And we have a lot of parts for them, including some NLA bits to keep things going. Some shops have younger techs that don't know these saws and they don't have parts, so they turn them down. We know them front to back, have plenty of parts and don't think of them as "old saws".

As you know these 2 series saws have many more variations within the model range as opposed to the 372/2171 chassis that replaced them. There's how many starter pulleys vs just the one on the 3 series as one example. All the different intakes. Even the 162/630/266 "looks the same" intake has 3 variations with different hardware. So, knowledge and experience come in handy for us cause we've been doing them so long it's all in our heads.

Personally I enjoy them as much as the 372 chassis and run them equally. 372 has an anti-vibe advantage. Other than that it's a coin toss for me. But for whatever reason I always seem to grab the twin coil saws over the singles on the 2 series.

For guys with limited experience or resources, 372's are likely a easier direction to go in as far as sourcing parts goes. And there's a lot of extra value here in this thread that you started cause we're sharing info on all the individual parts not just the complete kit/clone deal.

And even within the 2 series it's much easier to source parts for the second generation single coil saws than the early twin coil models, so that needs to be considered. At least for the newer 61/268/272 Huskys. Jonsered specific stuff is getting scarce quick for all of them.


Call me crazy, but I too prefer the twin coil saws (at least on the Jonsereds side). When the changed the case they used that new handle which extends toward the front of the saw and I always felt it changed the feel of the saw in a negative way. The 67o Champ that I use the most of any of my 600 series saws has the older handle on it for this reason. I never thought about it on the Husqvarna side. Did they get a new handle with the updated cases?
 

Spike60

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Call me crazy, but I too prefer the twin coil saws (at least on the Jonsereds side). When the changed the case they used that new handle which extends toward the front of the saw and I always felt it changed the feel of the saw in a negative way. The 67o Champ that I use the most of any of my 600 series saws has the older handle on it for this reason. I never thought about it on the Husqvarna side. Did they get a new handle with the updated cases?

Geez Eric I gotta measure some stuff and figure this out. Two possibilites I can guess at though. The handles interchange of course, but there may have been a change for clearance reasons. One idea is that just like the 372/2171 needed a taller handle when they went to the XT top ends, the 670/268 may have needed a slight change to clear the new taller muffler and top cover. There were also different chain brakes on these saws and on the Jonnys the all plastic flag handle sat a little different than the early ones. And there was more than 1 "early" one also. Similar on the Huskys going from the metal to plastic handle. And there were different diameter handles with Husky. Gotta look into this. Little doped up from the dentist today and gonna take another one in 15 minutes so I really don't know what I'm talking about. Maybe shouldn't have done the glass of Dead Rabbit before dinner either. Happy and expect to get some sleep tonight though. :)
 

taplinhill

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Geez Eric I gotta measure some stuff and figure this out. Two possibilites I can guess at though. The handles interchange of course, but there may have been a change for clearance reasons. One idea is that just like the 372/2171 needed a taller handle when they went to the XT top ends, the 670/268 may have needed a slight change to clear the new taller muffler and top cover. There were also different chain brakes on these saws and on the Jonnys the all plastic flag handle sat a little different than the early ones. And there was more than 1 "early" one also. Similar on the Huskys going from the metal to plastic handle. And there were different diameter handles with Husky. Gotta look into this. Little doped up from the dentist today and gonna take another one in 15 minutes so I really don't know what I'm talking about. Maybe shouldn't have done the glass of Dead Rabbit before dinner either. Happy and expect to get some sleep tonight though. :)

And how many of the handles on these 25 to 35 year old saws don't have a tweak or two in them. I once had a 630 that I referred to as my "630 SM" for "skidder modified". Somehow the holes lined up perfectly but the handle had a "reverse Husky" bend. It was very awkward to run and I swapped it out as soon as I had a better one.
 
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