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ErnieG

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The outer most orange colored lip.
Ok..its rite at 3.5mm so I'm good there another question is what are the original screws for the recoil cover ?
I've seen both Allen head and straight screw type heads .

Thanks
Ernie
 

Stump Shot

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Ok..its rite at 3.5mm so I'm good there another question is what are the original screws for the recoil cover ?
I've seen both Allen head and straight screw type heads .

Thanks
Ernie
That could depend on the year made and/or if replacements were installed. As stocks deplete, Husqvarna provides the current fastener, so you may see some with star dive heads. Earlier 288's definitely had the screwdriver head fasteners. You can try looking up in the IPL closest after the date of your saw was made to find out possibly.
 

Stump Shot

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Ok..its rite at 3.5mm so I'm good there another question is what are the original screws for the recoil cover ?
I've seen both Allen head and straight screw type heads .

Thanks
Ernie
Well, after taking a peek at the current offering from Husqvarna 724132955 which is(still) a cross slotted screwdriver type head, that should pretty much tell the story of what should hold on the 288 starter cover.
 

thedude74

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They like to be a little shorter on the intake than exhaust. More like 100 ex, 119 trans, 79 intake, squish at 0.020".

Ran with the numbers you gave me.
Lowers opened up to match the piston windows.
77 intake port and another 2 degrees off piston for 79 degrees total.
Took .030" off the base and cut band to get to .0205" squish with no base gasket.
Only widened the exhaust about 1mm per side
99.5-100 degree-ish. Gasket matched ex. port/muffler.

Now that I've got a few tanks through it, breaking in and leaned out a little. Must say it's really fun to run. Even with an 8 pin and 28" hungry chain I can still lean on it pretty good.

Only thing it needs now is a three foot bar n chain.
 

Woodwackr

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Ran with the numbers you gave me.
Lowers opened up to match the piston windows.
77 intake port and another 2 degrees off piston for 79 degrees total.
Took .030" off the base and cut band to get to .0205" squish with no base gasket.
Only widened the exhaust about 1mm per side
99.5-100 degree-ish. Gasket matched ex. port/muffler.

Now that I've got a few tanks through it, breaking in and leaned out a little. Must say it's really fun to run. Even with an 8 pin and 28" hungry chain I can still lean on it pretty good.

Only thing it needs now is a three foot bar n chain.
The 288 I recently built seems to like full comp rather than skip with a 31” 404 bar. The semi ch comp was faster and smoother than 52AJ.
Plenty o torque 😁
 

chipper1

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Ran with the numbers you gave me.
Lowers opened up to match the piston windows.
77 intake port and another 2 degrees off piston for 79 degrees total.
Took .030" off the base and cut band to get to .0205" squish with no base gasket.
Only widened the exhaust about 1mm per side
99.5-100 degree-ish. Gasket matched ex. port/muffler.

Now that I've got a few tanks through it, breaking in and leaned out a little. Must say it's really fun to run. Even with an 8 pin and 28" hungry chain I can still lean on it pretty good.

Only thing it needs now is a three foot bar n chain.
Just wait til you get that .0005 off the base 😄.
 

Kiwioilboiler

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Squish9

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Does anyone have photos of a 288 muffler that isn't like the aftermarket ones? I have a G288 that keeps setting fire to dry bark. I would like to remove the pipe in the front, plug the whole and make it exit the side like the original idea but can find a good photo of it to replicate
 

huskihl

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Does anyone have photos of a 288 muffler that isn't like the aftermarket ones? I have a G288 that keeps setting fire to dry bark. I would like to remove the pipe in the front, plug the whole and make it exit the side like the original idea but can find a good photo of it to replicate
I don’t have a photo, but I’ve never seen any evidence of bark getting hot from other saws if you blow a bigger pipe out on a 45° angle from the front corner. The small pipe makes the muffler and exhaust gases hotter and it blows it into a more confined area than a larger one
 

Squish9

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I don’t have a photo, but I’ve never seen any evidence of bark getting hot from other saws if you blow a bigger pipe out on a 45° angle from the front corner. The small pipe makes the muffler and exhaust gases hotter and it blows it into a more confined area than a larger one
I cut a lot of trees called stringy barks. Their bark makes for a really good tinder for starting fires and unfortunately this dam 288 keeps igniting them. I need to change something on it to help stop this as we are coming into summer over here and I don't want to burn the place down.

I'm going to have to change the exhaust exit to the side or put really big spikes on it to keep it back off the bark. Otherwise it will have to stay home for the hotter months
 
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