High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

A little 394 build...

jacob j.

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More progress on this project: Dave's intake block (on the left) has a pretty good crack in it, so I'll be using the block on the right.
This is a pretty common problem with these 394 intake blocks - so much so that Husqvarna came out with an "improved" block
later in the series.

 

p61 western

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More progress on this project: Dave's intake block (on the left) has a pretty good crack in it, so I'll be using the block on the right.
This is a pretty common problem with these 394 intake blocks - so much so that Husqvarna came out with an "improved" block
later in the series.

Reminds me of the Pioneer Reed blocks. They are usually cracked as well.
 

jacob j.

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The muffler I have for this saw is one Saw-King gave me years ago, it's got a second outlet brazed on. This is an early 394 large outlet muffler with the
bolt-on deflector and these don't really need much modding - if you see one of these in good condition, it's a good muffler for a 395 - stock or modded.
They breathe well and are a little beefier than the newer mufflers. It's another thing from an era when saw manufacturers were making parts better than
they needed to.


 

jacob j.

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I spent quite a bit of time this weekend cleaning up Dave's cylinder. The numbers in this thing aren't looking promising - the squish is currently
sitting at around .035", the intake is opening around 82 degrees after BDC, and the exhaust is opening around 97-98 degrees after TDC. Blow-down
is currently around 23 degrees. The exhaust and intake ports are huge - almost big enough for me to fit my thumb through (rule of thumb). The
ports did clean up nicely and the only real flaw on the cylinder wall is a chatter mark from where the builder was roughing in the lower transfers.
I think the uppers were done with a Dremel, so I used a Craytex bit to smooth all that out. I put a pretty decent bevel around the exhaust, intake, and upper trans, and did some fine sanding
by hand.


 

jacob j.

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The lower OEM ring on Dave's piston was still in real good shape and within spec, the upper ring had too much wear. I went with a new Caber on the upper. The piston
is still a good fit to the bore and I'm convinced it's not the original piston, although it is OEM.

 

Mattyo

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Run the kill switch wire different than stock.

Dont run it under that gray throttle insert...it pinches with the case. Run it through that 1/4" hole under that gray insert and up through the carb box near the kill switch. There is a spot for a knockout under the kill switch at the base of the carb box. Drill it out :) run wire. No more pinched wires. :)

Nice idea on the lock washers for the tank limiters :)
 

jacob j.

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Run the kill switch wire different than stock.

Dont run it under that gray throttle insert...it pinches with the case. Run it through that 1/4" hole under that gray insert and up through the carb box near the kill switch. There is a spot for a knockout under the kill switch at the base of the carb box. Drill it out :) run wire. No more pinched wires. :)

Nice idea on the lock washers for the tank limiters :)

Great idea on the wire routing - I've noticed the wire usually gets pinched where it runs through the grommet for the carb adjustment screws.

Usually by the time one of us is tearing into a saw for a rebuild, that wire has hardened due to heat and fuel exposure. I just make my own
out of bulk wire and crimp connectors.
 

srcarr52

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Run the kill switch wire different than stock.

Dont run it under that gray throttle insert...it pinches with the case. Run it through that 1/4" hole under that gray insert and up through the carb box near the kill switch. There is a spot for a knockout under the kill switch at the base of the carb box. Drill it out :) run wire. No more pinched wires. :)

Nice idea on the lock washers for the tank limiters :)

If you run the wire under the air dam from that hole up to the gray adjuster grommet, like the factory did, the wire no longer gets pinched.
 

Mattyo

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If you run the wire under the air dam from that hole up to the gray adjuster grommet, like the factory did, the wire no longer gets pinched.

I've never seen a wire not pinched. When it's run under that insert it gets pinched. I'll look for the route you mention next time I'm into one.
 
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