A little 394 build...

[Czed]

The tank cleaned up nice and got a new line and filter - unfortunately I only have Tygon at the moment and a new Husky filter.

With tygon i always had plenty of repeat business.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Nice work man. I too am a believer in ounce of prevention when it comes to crank bearings.

 

[jacob j.]

More progress on this project: Dave's intake block (on the left) has a pretty good crack in it, so I'll be using the block on the right.
This is a pretty common problem with these 394 intake blocks - so much so that Husqvarna came out with an "improved" block
later in the series.

 

[p61 western]

More progress on this project: Dave's intake block (on the left) has a pretty good crack in it, so I'll be using the block on the right.
This is a pretty common problem with these 394 intake blocks - so much so that Husqvarna came out with an "improved" block
later in the series.

Reminds me of the Pioneer Reed blocks. They are usually cracked as well.

 

[jacob j.]

The muffler I have for this saw is one Saw-King gave me years ago, it's got a second outlet brazed on. This is an early 394 large outlet muffler with the
bolt-on deflector and these don't really need much modding - if you see one of these in good condition, it's a good muffler for a 395 - stock or modded.
They breathe well and are a little beefier than the newer mufflers. It's another thing from an era when saw manufacturers were making parts better than
they needed to.

 

[jacob j.]

I spent quite a bit of time this weekend cleaning up Dave's cylinder. The numbers in this thing aren't looking promising - the squish is currently
sitting at around .035", the intake is opening around 82 degrees after BDC, and the exhaust is opening around 97-98 degrees after TDC. Blow-down
is currently around 23 degrees. The exhaust and intake ports are huge - almost big enough for me to fit my thumb through (rule of thumb). The
ports did clean up nicely and the only real flaw on the cylinder wall is a chatter mark from where the builder was roughing in the lower transfers.
I think the uppers were done with a Dremel, so I used a Craytex bit to smooth all that out. I put a pretty decent bevel around the exhaust, intake, and upper trans, and did some fine sanding
by hand.

 

[jacob j.]

This is what I use on starter springs after cleaning everything up real good...

 

[jacob j.]

The lower OEM ring on Dave's piston was still in real good shape and within spec, the upper ring had too much wear. I went with a new Caber on the upper. The piston
is still a good fit to the bore and I'm convinced it's not the original piston, although it is OEM.

 

[jacob j.]

When setting the tank stop screws, I like to use split-ring washers. This helps lock the screws in place and gives the tank just a little more "wiggle" room.

 

[jacob j.]

It's starting to look like a saw - next up is to manufacture a kill switch wire, figure out a carburetor, finish up the recoil, and test run it.

 

[Frank bierce]

It's starting to look like a saw - next up is to manufacture a kill switch wire, figure out a carburetor, finish up the recoil, and test run it.

Looking great Jacob!!

 

[Mattyo]

Run the kill switch wire different than stock.

Dont run it under that gray throttle insert...it pinches with the case. Run it through that 1/4" hole under that gray insert and up through the carb box near the kill switch. There is a spot for a knockout under the kill switch at the base of the carb box. Drill it out run wire. No more pinched wires.

Nice idea on the lock washers for the tank limiters

 

[jacob j.]

Run the kill switch wire different than stock.

Dont run it under that gray throttle insert...it pinches with the case. Run it through that 1/4" hole under that gray insert and up through the carb box near the kill switch. There is a spot for a knockout under the kill switch at the base of the carb box. Drill it out run wire. No more pinched wires.

Nice idea on the lock washers for the tank limiters

Great idea on the wire routing - I've noticed the wire usually gets pinched where it runs through the grommet for the carb adjustment screws.

Usually by the time one of us is tearing into a saw for a rebuild, that wire has hardened due to heat and fuel exposure. I just make my own
out of bulk wire and crimp connectors.

 

[Mattyo]

I have made my own wire as well but I have found that I really do like the original wire though they are not cheap

 

[GoBigBlue1984]

Love it JJ! You should do more of these types of threads.

 

[jacob j.]

Love it JJ! You should do more of these types of threads.

I'd like to see a BC hotrod 066 build thread brother...

 

[MG porting]

Can't wait to here how it runs looking good.

 

[srcarr52]

Run the kill switch wire different than stock.

Dont run it under that gray throttle insert...it pinches with the case. Run it through that 1/4" hole under that gray insert and up through the carb box near the kill switch. There is a spot for a knockout under the kill switch at the base of the carb box. Drill it out run wire. No more pinched wires.

Nice idea on the lock washers for the tank limiters

If you run the wire under the air dam from that hole up to the gray adjuster grommet, like the factory did, the wire no longer gets pinched.

 

[Mattyo]

If you run the wire under the air dam from that hole up to the gray adjuster grommet, like the factory did, the wire no longer gets pinched.

I've never seen a wire not pinched. When it's run under that insert it gets pinched. I'll look for the route you mention next time I'm into one.

 

[GoBigBlue1984]

I'd like to see a BC hotrod 066 build thread brother...

I can do that. For you my friend......anything. Shoot, you’ve been too good to me since I’ve known you.