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Loony661

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....and maybe check the lift pump in the tank.
Yes - get a gauge for fuel pressure between the filter housing and the injection pump, if you can.

When I bought my 24v, someone had “updated” from the block mounted lift pump, to the in-tank pump. Problem was, they never removed the block pump, and were pushing fuel through it! I only had around 4psi into the injection pump! 😬 I resolved it by removing and eliminating the tank pump, and installing a FASS DRP on the block. For the last 4 years it runs between 14-18psi consistently.
 

redneckhillbilly

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alright, so I took a look at it, and he had another shop lower the idle because he though it was too jerky when put in gear from idle, idle speed was at 600 in park, and setteled at about 475 in gear with the A/C on, i told him that is way to low and hes lucky it could still pump oil through the bearings, i adjusted the idle and got it at 750 in gear with it dropping to around 710 when the A/C engages.

i know that still low by the book, but he was hell bent on it being as low as possible, hes a retired truck driver and thinks 500 should be what every diesel idles at, I told him this is far from a 3406 or isx15.

hopefully it doesnt need anymore work, cause honestly I dont like arguing with people in order to set something to factory spec.
 

Loony661

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alright, so I took a look at it, and he had another shop lower the idle because he though it was too jerky when put in gear from idle, idle speed was at 600 in park, and setteled at about 475 in gear with the A/C on, i told him that is way to low and hes lucky it could still pump oil through the bearings, i adjusted the idle and got it at 750 in gear with it dropping to around 710 when the A/C engages.

i know that still low by the book, but he was hell bent on it being as low as possible, hes a retired truck driver and thinks 500 should be what every diesel idles at, I told him this is far from a 3406 or isx15.

hopefully it doesnt need anymore work, cause honestly I dont like arguing with people in order to set something to factory spec.
Isn’t 900 rpm spec?
 

Lawless

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Just saw this thread.

I have a 98 12V, 160k on it. It was my friend Don’s daddy’s truck. When he passed it sat in a warehouse for a decade. Don offered it to me after I sold my under 100k 7.3 PSD creampuff.

It was untouched and stock when I bought it. I replaced the rear axle seals and put some new rear shoes on it. I replaced the rear speed sensor due to speedometer being wonky.

Put in a #11 fuel plate, longer AFC spring, 4k governor springs and carefully tuned it. Shaved some stuff for full rack travel, washer flip and other little tricks. Truck is very strong, has gotten over 23mpg on the hwy (3.54 gear) and is utterly reliable. It isn’t a coal roller, it is tuned to make clean power 💪🏻

IMG_1855.jpegIMG_2666.jpeg
 

Lawless

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Next plans are:

Drop the trans pan and install a drain plug kit. Drop the valve body and put in a billet 2nd gear band strut and anchor. Then crank up the line pressure a bit and minimum throttle valve setting. New filter and fluid.

Debating about going ahead with a new “drop in” 2nd gear band while I have the strut out. Nothing wrong but since it is making around 200lb/ft extra I want the trans to last. I don’t abuse it at all but prevention goes a long way.
 

jacob j.

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Met a dude with a 98 12v today, he said he'll be buried in that truck or, just maybe, he'd let one of his kids inherit it.

I've been looking for a clean, low-mile 12V survivor...but they get too beat up here and are pretty clapped out by the time people decide to let go.
 

davidwyby

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Davidwyby
Did you by chance ever get wiring diagrams as to how you have wired over drive to a switch on your current Truck


Not to be a pest by any means but this thread jolted my memory.
Haven’t even thought about it, sorry. Life got crazy. Both our dads died.
 
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