Lightning Performance
Here For The Long Haul!
- Local time
- 2:50 AM
- User ID
- 677
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2016
- Messages
- 10,991
- Reaction score
- 28,050
- Location
- East of Philly
I shall be avoiding the RUD! They make adjustable blow off valves and boost retard toys. The block has ignition knock sensors oe.
That is the general plan you have spelled out. The power adder will come second. The rear end has room for lt235 sneakers or taller. That two way tailgate is the *s-wordz.
Deciding on how much to fill the intake runners and un-shroud the valves is the key component to grunt way down low. I need the power to be game on a 1,500 or as close as possible. At least the heads have D-port and a generous short side radius.
My best SBC low performance/rv gen two build was an iron 327 crank, 350 #010 oe block casting, 75' 305 iron head, forgot the numbers, maybe 461 or 883
Built to pull a loaded 24' camper trailer with a street rod through the mountains of PA. It averaged 16mpg loaded to Cumberland Maryland @75mph from Jersey. Tweaked 625 Carter/Edelbrock carb and performer manifold port matched, matched to the heads and ported early ram horn manifold outlets. Small cam. Bowl cleaning, a combustion chamber de-bur with valve seat blending. The 1.94 intake 1.6 exhaust did better than the 1.72 1.5 set on the road. It moved more air for better economy on the road but below 2.5k the small valve was the clear winner. Small valves were the *s-word for tenth mile rod jousting, hole shots and starting out from a dead stop loaded. The motor also fell off at 4,500rpm, gone flat with small valves. Big valves pulled to 5600. The drive line was P285/70/15, turbo 350 2400 stall Nova/Camaro 10bolt 3.42. 70 mph Cruising @3200. Big air mover.Only one that did better was a 78' Monty Carlo, 305 block, 350 cast crank, small 350 rv cam, stock dished pistons with an aluminum Canadian deuce intake and hacked two jet carter. 305 1.85 Intake valves. No head work but a be-bur and port match. Bowls were increased to 80% of the intake valve. No exhaust or major head work. Touched up casting lines. Blended rough edges. Stock bottom end with dished 75' truck pistons. 350 trans, no stall speed with p225/75/15 sneakers. Stock 2.87 gear from an olds y block car. 19mpg. 25 initial timing lead and 46 full advance at 2100rpm. Pulled a 14ft boat, many campers and even twin axle car trailer with cargo coils and stiff shocks. I did install an SS type rear sway bar for towing the car trailer loaded and retarded the ignition timing. A hacked up HEI vacuum distributor was the key part to getting good fuel economy. It took an Accel coil, MSD ignition module, mixed spring weights, custom fly weights, a hacked up advance plate and relocated stops to get that kind of instant smooth timing curve. You can buy them now days. They still need more advance added to them. DUI HEI Marine Distributor is a good well built unit to start with. I started with OEM
Not much crosses over to an Optispark ignition system. Same principals is what I'm looking for in the ignition timing curve.
These heads are much better and support more power, better low lift numbers on the roller cam and less drag in the internals. I can also drop to zero twenty oil and much thinner rear gear oil. We have run Mobil one 0-50 in many hipo diffs and stick shift trannys since those builds.
The water/meth is going on with or without the power adder.
Can a large axial fan be had to test feed this thing some boost?
I will consider any air booster to test this thing out. Leaf blowers won't work
too weak The sun just came out. See you later. CSM time
