2511 Build

[Ketchup]

@mortalitool mentioned this mod to me a while back. It might make the saw a little harder to tune, but I think it buys a small gain. Especially in bigger cuts.

Stock on Left, modded on right.


FWIW, I preferred the white flocked air filters. These red ones let more fines through. I put a thick grease around the filter mount ring as well.

 

[whitesnake]

Any vids of one of your ported? As much as I can see cordless being handy in a bucket for light work the 2511 is a great selling saw. Can't imagine they'll drop it right away.

 

[Ketchup]

That all looks amazing great work. I'm no porter but it looks good. Have you been into the 303 at all?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Never touched a 303.

 

[Ketchup]

I do the muffler last, but it’s just as easy to do first. All the credit goes to @Red97. His small deflectors worked pretty well and these newer ones are a breeze.



Nothing fancy here. I just grind the dinky stock deflector off, drill a hole through the front and through the internal baffle. I enlarge both holes with a carbide burr.

I don’t weld my deflector on. I use the existing screw and threading to clamp it down. That way it’s easy to put a screen in if you need to. I use a liquid high temp gasket to seal the edges. It’s a bit of a hack, but it works well.



I don’t do much outlet widening on the exhaust. It’s a lot of work, makes the saw loud, and doesn’t seem to add power. That said, I do grind away the flange that juts out into the entry port of the muffler. I feel like it improves flow.

 

[Ketchup]

That about it. I mod a Stihl 170 spike to fit. Spikes aren’t really necessary for pruning, but I like them for bigger cuts and blocking. I’m one of those fools who can’t stop doing one handed cuts and the spikes really stabilize the saw when cutting in precarious positions.



There is some debate about what bar and chain setup is best for these saws. In my opinion, 10” 3/8lp .043 is fastest. But 14” .043 1/4” is so much more practical. The saw basically replaces a 200t at that point and makes cuts very accurately. That’s how I typically set them up.


No videos until Monday or Tuesday. I have to go down to town for test cuts.

 

[Red97]

No. I need to.

I would like to build my own Dyno at some point.

Very nice build thread. These little guys sure are a potent package.

Everyone needs a dyno.

Let me know if you need help once you get started with yours.

Or if you want to send a saw in.

Either way keep up the good work!

 

[whitesnake]

That's a sweet setup! I'd like to run a ported one. They seem pretty strong. Could possibly be the only top handle you need until you have to bust out a rear handle saw.

 

[whitesnake]

Do you think you could pull anything more heavy duty at 14" or just .043 1/4?

 

[huskihl]

Do you think you could pull anything more heavy duty at 14" or just .043 1/4?

They will pull it, but they begin to chatter

 

[whitesnake]

So top handles and .325 aren't really a thing?

 

[mettee]

I like the regular heavy duty tan 3m masking tape, the blue has been letting me down. The tan has better stick.

 

[Ketchup]

So top handles and .325 aren't really a thing?

The new .325 .043 nanocut chain has a lot going for it. The T540xpi comes with it stock and there are kits from Oregon to put it on Stihl 194/201 and older. I’m running it on my 201 and really like it. Unfortunately 2511 doesn’t have a sprocket for .325.

 

[David Young]

Nice thread thank you

 

[Ketchup]

My pleasure. This site has given me so much info, gotta contribute how I can.

I have the flu so videos will have to wait a couple more days. Sorry folks.

 

[David Young]

Yuck.

The flu is so passé

the cool kids are down with Covid now

hope you feel better soon

regards
David

 

[Woodpecker]

Echo does have a stock spike for these little guys. It comes stock on the 2511 rear handle version and also the 355/360. Might save you some cash/hassle with the Stihl spike.

also the panther 1/4” b&c conversion the monkey beaver sells works very nice too.

 

[Ketchup]

Here’s some vids. First is ported:

Bare in mind she’s on her very first cut. I like a longer cut for testing.

Second is a brand new stock saw with the same B&C. I haven’t run a stocker in so long I’m not good at tuning them. IIRC they all have a little bog mid throttle.

 

[Nutball]

I always include the OEM spike bumper on modded 2511T's.

I wonder if the .043 .325 chain is low pro, or will it work on a rim? I could potentially convert a drum to accept rims, I did it before, but never finished the design, but was able to short term run 3/8 7t on a 2511t

 

[Ketchup]

I feel like the 2511 echo spike is barely there. It’s so small I feel like all it does is protect the oil tank. I haven’t tried the larger echo spike for 355t but it looks like the largest spike is in the wrong place. I like these Stihl ones because the bottom spike actually dogs in. I’ve tried a 200t spike, but the bottom spike still seems too small.

I think Nanocut is low profile. There maybe .325 .043 that’s standard height. Good idea with the sprocket. I’ve got piles of 3/8 sprockets I could cut down.

 

[Crocky28]

Anyway,
View attachment 319417
I raise and widen the exhaust, raise the transfers and don’t touch the intake.
View attachment 319418
View attachment 319416
I blend the lowers a bit. I like the dividers up inside the tunnels a few millimeters. That triangle on the flange wall of the flywheel side secondary irritates me. I leave it but I really want to get rid of it. It screams overengineered turbulence.
View attachment 319415
I’ve been ramping the uppers with good results. 4 degrees from cracking to full width.

Have you done these with removing that transfer stuffer? Just wondered your thought on with or without?