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Sloughfoot

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Did a little work on the muffler this morning. There was a ring of steel above the exhaust port and a perforated baffle under the port. I went in with a double cut burr and cut out both pieces. Now the port opens up to a wide open can. I’m in the process of fitting a deflector high on the clutch side with a second outlet.View attachment 431529View attachment 431530
Serious question. Is high on the clutch side the optimal exit location or are you going to the existing hole as opposed to blocking it off or adding a 2nd exit elsewhere?
 

farminkarman

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Serious question. Is high on the clutch side the optimal exit location or are you going to the existing hole as opposed to blocking it off or adding a 2nd exit elsewhere?
I’m leaving the stock opening in the bottom front alone. Just adding another exit to get rid of some gasses in a spot that wont blow back at the saw. This approach will make the saw louder, but that is kinda how I like them.
 

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And they have a nozzle for the high side fuel delivery.
I believe they copied the 272 carb by the look of the carb body. The casting have the idle screw hole for the 272 throttle shaft wingy thing to ride on.
Also the later tilly 288 carb have a brass high jet. I found that out by investing my 288 carbs and how to make it work on the 2101 I own.
 

Dolkitafreak

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I believe they copied the 272 carb by the look of the carb body. The casting have the idle screw hole for the 272 throttle shaft wingy thing to ride on.
Also the later tilly 288 carb have a brass high jet. I found that out by investing my 288 carbs and how to make it work on the 2101 I own.
Just a Tilly HS carb body, many many saws used them some with variances to work for the chassis. 272, 288, Stihl 041, 056, etc etc. They’re a simple and functional design, the no nozzle atomizer system works fine, and a nozzle could be installed if one prefers. Between models of carburetors there are often small differences in stock sizing of orifices but can usually be interchanged without much issue.
 

Sloughfoot

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I’m leaving the stock opening in the bottom front alone. Just adding another exit to get rid of some gasses in a spot that wont blow back at the saw. This approach will make the saw louder, but that is kinda how I like them.
I didn't know you had that type muffler. I've seen where they've come with upper clutch side exit only, lower front only and with both. Interested to see how yours turns out.
 

Al Smith

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Just a Tilly HS carb body, many many saws used them some with variances to work for the chassis.
Not exactly the same .Some of them have the idle screw attached to the carb body not on the side of the air box like a 2100 .In addtion some have a shelf like gizmo that hinders the travel of the throttle linkage .Some have a rather large straight nipple where the fuel line attatchs rather than a smaller sized nipple with a 90 degree bend like the 2100 is .The venturi size could be off .The 2100 is 11/16" others could be 5/8" or 9/16" .Another problem could be the length of the choke rod .Some are short to the carb body,the 2100 sticks out farther to the side .The choke rod is rather ridgid so it about needs to be the correct one .I'm not saying a mix match would not work but it would take some modifactions to make it work .In my experiance I've come to the conclusion cobbling things together only make more problems later on .BTW in the big Tilley master book it lists 26 pages of models ,at least 60 different models of HS carbs .
 

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Just a Tilly HS carb body, many many saws used them some with variances to work for the chassis. 272, 288, Stihl 041, 056, etc etc. They’re a simple and functional design, the no nozzle atomizer system works fine, and a nozzle could be installed if one prefers. Between models of carburetors there are often small differences in stock sizing of orifices but can usually be interchanged without much issue.
So, these old 056 carbs I have will work on the 2100?
🤣
 

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So, these old 056 carbs I have will work on the 2100?
🤣
The body can yes, as Al said check the idle adjustment for function. Circuits etc function the same though so may need to swap shafts etc but it’s a usable carb on it. Also one nice thing about old saws is sometimes you can leave whatever shafts are in the carb and just bend new throttle rods out of music wire.
 

Al Smith

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I made the entire linkage rods for one of the Partner P-100's .In that example I made a lot of them that flat did not work .Piano aka music wire is not the easiest media to work with. Drill or gauge wire is also a pain in the behind .They are about like bending spring steel .
 

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I made the entire linkage rods for one of the Partner P-100's .In that example I made a lot of them that flat did not work .Piano aka music wire is not the easiest media to work with. Drill or gauge wire is also a pain in the behind .They are about like bending spring steel .
more heat :p
 

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The body can yes, as Al said check the idle adjustment for function. Circuits etc function the same though so may need to swap shafts etc but it’s a usable carb on it. Also one nice thing about old saws is sometimes you can leave whatever shafts are in the carb and just bend new throttle rods out of music wire.
cool. I guess I'll keep these two and convert them to Husky :D
 

Sloughfoot

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Just a Tilly HS carb body, many many saws used them some with variances to work for the chassis. 272, 288, Stihl 041, 056, etc etc. They’re a simple and functional design, the no nozzle atomizer system works fine, and a nozzle could be installed if one prefers. Between models of carburetors there are often small differences in stock sizing of orifices but can usually be interchanged without much issue.
Yeh, at a glance they look the same but are different. 380 carb I have has the same body and plates, gaskets and diaphragms. The carb bolt spacing is smaller, venturi is smaller, idle screw adjustment is on the back. Manifold seal assembly is molded or glued to it.
 

farminkarman

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How’s the compression feel , just pulling over?
I haven’t put the recoil back on yet, so not sure. I am guessing that it’s gonna take a very intentional yank to keep from kicking back.
 
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