064, 066 MS650, MS660 info thread

[cshunter83]

Time to improvise.



Without looking it up, I'm pretty sure this applies to the 1204 flywheel. You can probably verify it one way or another earlier in the thread somewhere.

Retarded 5° from the existing keyway position is where you need to be according to several references. You can do this without a key if you are very careful about cleaning both the crank and the flywheel for spotless mating surfaces. The taper of the crank is what provides the strength of the mechanical attachment via the torque of the nut. The key is for timing alignment only.

A word of warning: Less than a 5 degree starting point to find the sweet spot can really bite back hard. Better to start a little long than too short.

Thanks a lot. The top end is off right now. Waiting on a meteor piston to arrive and get it back together then I’ll tackle the flywheel/coil issue. Thanks again.


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[066 redeye]

You wouldn’t happen to have the correct position degrees/measurement for where the keyway should be would you? Thanks for the reply.
Here's mine

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[066 redeye]

Note adaptor bottom of coil for 064 case.

 

[066 redeye]

This with piston AT TDC.

 

[066 redeye]

I ment adaptor at back coil mount bolt.

 

[cshunter83]

Note adaptor bottom of coil for 064 case.

That’s pretty slick with that adapter.


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[066 redeye]

Mine is d/key wheel but am running another saw without key.
Fly wheel hasn't moved.

 

[Definitive Dave]

I've been slow getting to reading but I think I have a pair of the 064 flywheels on hand that Mastermind broached for me so they are double keyway.
If you need one shoot me a PM
thanks
Dave

 

[Lightning Performance]

I’m not sure either. I’ve never done one of the conversions or messed with it either way on the 1122 series . On a Dolmar 7900 with the standard limited coil, the fw is positioned about 30° ahead of where the 272 limited coil runs.

From what I’ve read, a coil can’t fire earlier than when it’s triggered. So any coil that has an advance feature built into it is normally mounted so that it fires about 30° before it actually needs to. The circuitry inside the coil then retards the timing back down to around 28° BTDC at idle, and can advance an additional 10° or so at max rpm.

Not that it really applies here, just explaining why there are two slots

Time to improvise.



Without looking it up, I'm pretty sure this applies to the 1204 flywheel. You can probably verify it one way or another earlier in the thread somewhere.

Retarded 5° from the existing keyway position is where you need to be according to several references. You can do this without a key if you are very careful about cleaning both the crank and the flywheel for spotless mating surfaces. The taper of the crank is what provides the strength of the mechanical attachment via the torque of the nut. The key is for timing alignment only.

A word of warning: Less than a 5 degree starting point to find the sweet spot can really bite back hard. Better to start a little long than too short.

These are both very good post.

When I started back at tree work the 1124 saw was my immediate pick for a big saw knowing little about them. The quick study on the web said it was a good solid platform but again beyond my budget. The 048 or the 056 were my next choices both with known ignition issues and few parts available. First thing I did was buy a running 048 and a spare for parts with a bad ignition. After running it and another guys 064 I knew something was really wrong. 155 psi in a gutless turd! Handed my saw to him to cut and he laughed. He said the coil was weak and the ignition advance is gone
The good news was he said, fix it man. I said how, he said put a modern coil on it and set it where you think it should run. I did, it ran and it was crazy fast. Almost smoked the piston lol.

Used my dial indicator to find top dead center. After spinning over the motor with a mounted coil from something else you could get an idea of where the ignition was firing with a timing light and a few sharpie marks. Same way we build an ignition system for custom cars with points heading out and CDI coming in. Find TDC, where your currently getting spark in time, then you can figure a decent starting point for advance before TDC and your almost home. I was close but way ahead from stock. My timing was at 35 full advance and it was too much and hard to start hot. Backing it down to 32 was fine. A few saws I'd like to make flywheel swaps on to fix these old saw issues for good. Starting at 20 would have made me think the saw had another problem. Never seen a chainsaw go from smoking blue to spitting out black and brown carbon clouds lol. The muffler had to be burnt clean in a wood stove. That saw ran good till I wore out the pto seal. Now the tune wonders at low speeds. The ignition update was the best thing ever happened to an old chainsaw imo.

 

[cshunter83]

I've been slow getting to reading but I think I have a pair of the 064 flywheels on hand that Mastermind broached for me so they are double keyway.
If you need one shoot me a PM
thanks
Dave

PM sent.


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[PogoInTheWoods]

That saw ran good till I wore out the pto seal. Now the tune wonders at low speeds. The ignition update was the best thing ever happened to an old chainsaw imo.

Not to get sidetracked, but you can find NOS PTO seals for the 042/48 if you're patient. I'm rebuilding one now and just replaced that seal. Also, the common unlimited 0000 400 1300 coil will bolt right up and run with the common 1117 400 1206 flywheel that was used on all but the earliest 1117's and the ones with the generator. I'm guessing the only differences there would be the friction shoe starter and/or the extra space accommodation for the generator version.

Sorry for the slight diversion, folks. As you were.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Not to get sidetracked, but you can find NOS PTO seals for the 042/48 if you're patient. I'm rebuilding one now and just replaced that seal. Also, the common unlimited 0000 400 1300 coil will bolt right up and run with the common 1117 400 1206 flywheel that was used on all but the earliest 1117's and the ones with the generator. I'm guessing the only differences there would be the friction shoe starter and/or the extra space accommodation for the generator version.

Sorry for the slight diversion, folks. As you were.

I used that coil, pretty sure and the flywheel was in a box of 048 parts. The wheel on the saw was cracked or something was off to use it daily. Have to dig up the saw one day. It is all OEM parts.

Derail done

 

[cshunter83]

Is there a way to tell the difference between the 1122 400 1311 coil and the standard 0000 400 1300 coil? I have one that says lida on it so I know it’s one of the two.

 

[jacob j.]

Is there a way to tell the difference between the 1122 400 1311 coil and the standard 0000 400 1300 coil? I have one that says lida on it so I know it’s one of the two.

Easiest way to tell is that the 1311 coil is a three-bolt coil, meaning it has three mounts, whereas the 1300 Universal coil only has two.

 

[cshunter83]

Easiest way to tell is that the 1311 coil is a three-bolt coil, meaning it has three mounts, whereas the 1300 Universal coil only has two.

This one must be a 1300 then. That’s what I was hoping. Thanks.


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[president]

Jim, this is a first year 066 I got with a first year 064 flywheel on it that works good with the Red Light upgraded Iida 0000 400 1300 coil.
This coil should work with the 046 flywheel as it works good on most other Stihls.
My 1996 066 poly wheel has the 3 screw dog leg 1122 400 1312 coil.

the three leg 1309 coil found on early 046 magnums is a performance gainer
with its advancing curve. It is also the coil used on the 880s

 

[popopboat]

Alright, after months of searching, found a dealer which has an OEM 064 piston for 40$, half an hour drive from me LOL.

 

[popopboat]

Already asked something similar but,
it appears like 064 piston has fairly narrow skirt, has it ever caused a problem ? with wear and stability?

 

[ManiacalMark]

If it was something you’re worried about use an ms650 piston.

 

[popopboat]

If it was something you’re worried about use an ms650 piston.

Theres not really any 650 pistons available except some aftermarket that i never heard of,
I had a choice : AIP 064, Meteor 064, OEM 064 or that wild aftermarket 650,
Meteor and OEM were the same price, so i chose an OEM
The problem is that i dont know should i be worried at all?