026 cylinder question/build

[drf256]

IIRC

044 boot and studs. I opened the boot entry in the tank.

You need a metal filter for any performance. And that needs to be modded as well. I have some if you need.

The 044 boot and clamp are loose. I used dirko, snugged it down and waited a day. You need to open and blend the intake snout to match the boot.

I may have a pic of the proper rotation for the 044 boot on the 026 jug.

 

[Ronie]

IIRC

044 boot and studs. I opened the boot entry in the tank.

You need a metal filter for any performance. And that needs to be modded as well. I have some if you need.

The 044 boot and clamp are loose. I used dirko, snugged it down and waited a day. You need to open and blend the intake snout to match the boot.

I may have a pic of the proper rotation for the 044 boot on the 026 jug.

Thanks, I just ordered an 044 one a minute ago. I was thinking about ordering some stainless mesh and glue it to the filter I've got.

 

[drf256]

This

 

[Ronie]

This

Thanks for the help.

 

[drf256]

.

 

[drf256]

Can’t find inlet pics

 

[Ronie]

Can’t find inlet pics

That's ok, I understand what you're talking about.

 

[Ronie]

I got the AM carb today and gave it a try, same problem. So even though I did a vac test when I put it together, I did another one because I couldn't think of anything else it could be if it wasn't the carb. Sure enough the flywheel seal was leaking along the metal edge and was turning a little when I moved the crank, I don't know why it was moving but the pocket looked good and the new seal stayed put and held vacuum. I also ended up putting 036 boot on it because the stock one had a tear. I put the OEM 026 carb on it, turned carb screws one turn out and it fired right up.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I often use drops of lock tight on the seal edge anymore. I thought about windshield rtv because it flows so well but I don't know if it could handle the temperature.
Im glad you got it running, you don't seem easily discouraged.

 

[Ronie]

I often use drops of lock tight on the seal edge anymore. I thought about windshield rtv because it flows so well but I don't know if it could handle the temperature.
Im glad you got it running, you don't seem easily discouraged.

It's been frustrating. lol

 

[Ronie]

Anyone know if I can bolt on the clutch and oiler system of a 260 on this 026, I hate the oiler running while it's idling?

 

[RI Chevy]

I think if the case half has the hole in it, you can interchange them.
I think the fixed oiler flows more oil...

 

[Ronie]

I think if the case half has the hole in it, you can interchange them.
I think the fixed oiler flows more oil...

I can definitely say that the fixed oiler flows a lot of oil, even at idle. I'll have to find a pic of a 260 case and see if mine looks the same, where's the hole located?

 

[Ronie]

I think if the case half has the hole in it, you can interchange them.
I think the fixed oiler flows more oil...

I think your talking about the adjuster hole, right?

 

[huskihl]

I think your talking about the adjuster hole, right?

Yes. Flip it over and look and see if it looks like a normal saw but with no adjuster screw

 

[Ronie]

I got it somewhat tuned, it doesn't like the idle below about 3200 rpm but I not going to worry about it since this carb is coming off when I get the 390 one. It surprised me how well this AM cylinder did, good RPMs in the cut and it had some good torque, the last cut I was putting a good deal of pressure on it.

 

[RI Chevy]

I think if you richen up the L a bit, the saw comes back to idle a little better. Might do a little something for midrange too. Worth a try.

 

[Ronie]

I think if you richen up the L a bit, the saw comes back to idle a little better. Might do a little something for midrange too. Worth a try.

I tried that but it gets a bog for a second when you hit the throttle and when the idle comes down it will run a second then die. The carb might need to soak a while, I'm not very good when it comes to diagnosing carb problems.

 

[RI Chevy]

I know what you mean. They can be finicky.

 

[drf256]

I have an adjustable oiler “Kit” you can buy.

The issue is that you need a different clutch drum (besides the worm gear notch it’s deeper), the worm gear, the sleeve and washer, and the pump.

Totally not worth the swap IMHO. You’re only idling at 3000 rpm. So 1/3-1/4 running rpm. It’s not a lot of wasted oil, but it’s your call. I used to feel the need for the PRO oiler as well, but it makes little real world difference.

As for your seal, if it’s leaking around the edge where it meets the case, you could add some sealant and pull a vacuum. It will usually pull enough in to seal it off. Wait a day and run it.