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Chain grinding and filing thread

Chainsaw Jim

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It really depends on what brand of chain you're using. The cutters on the particular Stihl brand I'm looking at has a larger gap to begin with and won't need much off the side... if any at all when it gets taken down to the last couple grinds.
 

Hedgerow

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I've seen racers will cut a cookie and then inspect the surface of the cant for smoothness. A work chain leaves a rough rippley cant face where a low drag stoned chain will leave a much smoother cant face. When telling the average fellow about a 'stoned chain' they kinda question what exactly is stoned.:grazy:
Gotta keep all those cutters lined up.
Don't need any renegades cutting stuff that don't need cutting.
 

Jswanson

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I would like to start this thread to help those who aren't very skilled at grinding chain for exhibition and racing. Not knowing the science of fast chain has kept many good folks away from the starting line, causing the event coordinators to struggle finding enough competitors to run events, and I hope to change that.
This will also help those who only want a good cutting work chain.

It all starts with picking the right chain. I'm hoping a few members here can help with a list of chain to look for, and chain to avoid.

I'll be adding more here in a couple hours when I get a break from the shop.

Couldn't people just buy race chains? What's the cost?
 

Duane(Pa)

It's the chain...
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Couldn't people just buy race chains? What's the cost?
The short answer is no. Someone has to make them. It's not something you can walk in and buy off a roll or shelf at the race chain shop. We're here to learn what it takes and see how it's done.
 
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kingOFgEEEks

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Gonna need a fast chain...
PIzc1Me.jpg



Faster than that...
 

RI Chevy

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Lol. Mine don't look like that. At least I don't think so. Now your gonna make me check. Lol
 
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