Chain grinding and filing thread

[Terry Syd]

Different kind of skinny

I like that kind of skinny. It seems like the factories could manufacture the cutters that way if they desired.

I've seen the top plate of a few chains with a decreasing thickness as it nears the outer edge, so they have the ability to do it if they wanted.

 

[Terry Syd]

You really gotta pay attention when chain gets skinny. Lotsa other variables

Yeah, that's why I asked the question. What variables are you taking into consideration that would make it slower.

 

[Deets066]

Yeah, that's why I asked the question. What variables are you taking into consideration that would make it slower.

 

[Terry Syd]

I see, a broken chain is very slow. OK, then are you saying that is the only way a 'skinny' chain becomes slower?

Here's a question regarding quantification of a mod. Has anyone ever tested the cutting speed increase of a chain, then 'stoned' the rivets and then tested again?

If there was a substantial increase that was worth the effort, then I could see 'stoning' could be used on work saws. It is a mod to the chain that once done, wouldn't have to be done again during the life of the chain.

I compare 'stoning' to mods I've made to cutters that resulted in a decrease in cutting resistance, however after a couple of sharpenings, the mods had to be renewed. It wasn't worth all the extra work to keep modding the cutters, but if 'stoning' worked, then that is a mod that may be worthwhile.

 

[David Young]

View attachment 138141 View attachment 138142

Bar and chain porn

Looks like someone shot you saw wiff some aught buck.
What’s the thought there?

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Could you expand on that comment? It seems contradictory, that is, by stoning the chain (making it skinny) may not make it faster. I must have missed something...

The overall thickness of the cutter like the pic deets showed "different kind of skinny".
I was setting up a chain for 25" dry fir racing and tested it after the first couple rounds. The first thing I did off the roll was get the cutters at the desired angle and nipped the heels or back of the cutter a little bit. I had consistent 8 second cuts. I figured woohoo and went on to the next step which was to thin out the inside of the cutters like the one deets pictured. Tested it again and ended up losing a couple seconds and never got it back no matter what else I did. I suppose the chain would be perfect for softer cant wood which I'll eventually try it on before I junk it.

 

[Deets066]

I see, a broken chain is very slow. OK, then are you saying that is the only way a 'skinny' chain becomes slower?

Here's a question regarding quantification of a mod. Has anyone ever tested the cutting speed increase of a chain, then 'stoned' the rivets and then tested again?

If there was a substantial increase that was worth the effort, then I could see 'stoning' could be used on work saws. It is a mod to the chain that once done, wouldn't have to be done again during the life of the chain.

I compare 'stoning' to mods I've made to cutters that resulted in a decrease in cutting resistance, however after a couple of sharpenings, the mods had to be renewed. It wasn't worth all the extra work to keep modding the cutters, but if 'stoning' worked, then that is a mod that may be worthwhile.

First off, I never said skinny was slow.

Second, yes... a broken chain is mighty slow. Lol

Third, stoning has nothing to do with the rivets. Stoning has no place in a work saw

 

[Terry Syd]

When you refer to 'stoning' you are referring to touching up the sides of the cutters so that the kerf is uniform, is that correct?

What about just thinning the rivets, is there any noticeable improvement?

 

[Deets066]

What about just thinning the rivets, is there any noticeable improvement?

Not unless they need it

 

[Lightning Performance]

I think, Terry thought you used a stone to narrow the chassis as well as the cutters.

Smoothing rivets for work chain would only help the chain if it was all used up from pinching in wet wood IMO. Work chain should not be dicked with much like Keith said. Playing with strength is never advisable on work cutters or chassis. Not on my work saw thank you. I don't wear chaps, yet. Need to buy a pair this year.

 

[Terry Syd]

Thanks, I was just hoping that I might find another useful trick that I could use on a work chain. I've got cutters and cutting angle worked out, the cutting angle (rakers) being the most useful concept. Also the angle/thickness of the raker so it tends to 'self adjust' for soft and hard wood. I just keep thinking that maybe there is more that I'm missing.

 

[Deets066]

Thanks, I was just hoping that I might find another useful trick that I could use on a work chain. I've got cutters and cutting angle worked out, the cutting angle (rakers) being the most useful concept. Also the angle/thickness of the raker so it tends to 'self adjust' for soft and hard wood. I just keep thinking that maybe there is more that I'm missing.

There’s always more, but you have to draw the line between work and race somewhere