Dirty Wood

[Wilhelm]

Mr. Chain Guru @Philbert , You like my chains?

 

[Duce]

Dirty wood chains, I also have a couple 24"/84DL ones.
Well, technically those are stump removal chains - but they sure came in handy bucking that ugly log pile last weekend.

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Race chains? I have many like that, but now I just don't cut them at dirt level, neighbor pulls them with his 312.

 

[Philbert]

Mr. Chain Guru @Philbert , You like my chains?

If they cut, they cut!

Lots of ideas for muddy logs: even brushing off dirt before cutting.

Peeling bark off green trees.

Maybe even a bristle brush on an angle grinder?

OP’s suggestion seems to work for him. Perhaps, with a large number of cuts, you dedicate one saw/chain to cut through the muddy bark, and another to cut the cleaner wood?

Philbert

 

[Wilhelm]

Has anyone noticed oregon semi chisel being prone to cut crooked? Dry dirty euc.

Oregon makes semi chisel?
Huh!

I have Dolmar branded semi chisel, Oregon makes it.
You are doing something wrong during sharpening!

Or, Your chains DL's are bottoming out in the bars groove!
Worth checking.

 

[Loony661]

Lots of ideas for muddy logs: even brushing off dirt before cutting.

OP’s suggestion seems to work for him. Perhaps, with a large number of cuts, you dedicate one saw/chain to cut through the muddy bark, and another to cut the cleaner wood?

Philbert

Yes absolutely. There are a lot of ways to go about this. In my example, I’m just showing that it can be done efficiently with a little forethought.

This is how I make my living, so I’m certainly looking for the fastest, most efficient way to get it done. Swapping chains takes time. Sharpening chains takes time, and uses up chain life. I’m certainly not going to peel bark, walk all the logs and scrub them with a brush, etc. But those methods absolutely work to get the debris off the logs.

How else do you guys go about cutting dirty wood?

 

[davidwyby]

Mine is cracked with dust and dirt inside.

Pressure washing it out helps. Keeps dust down too.

 

[davidwyby]

Old bar, did you re-dress bar when installing new chain?

I checked it. Swapped back to skip full chis and it cut fine. I had hit debris and touched it up with a file freehand. I had to either go through and do all the cutters and rakers with a husky roller guide and measure to length or my stihl USG grinder. Never had so much trouble with tiny imperfections or inconsistencies having such a dramatic effect.


@Wilhelm Oregon Duracut aka multi cut

Inferior to stihl RM

 

[Loony661]

I checked it. Swapped back to skip full chis and it cut fine. I had hit debris and touched it up with a file freehand. I had to either go through and do all the cutters and rakers with a husky roller guide and measure to length or my stihl USG grinder. Never had so much trouble with tiny imperfections or inconsistencies having such a dramatic effect.


@Wilhelm Oregon Duracut aka multi cut

Inferior to stihl RM

I bought some of the triple chrome plated Oregon semi-chisel 2 years ago to try in dirty conditions and I really dislike using it. I’ve tried different sharpening angles and depth gauge heights, and I just can not get it to perform. I just tried it again the other day on a couple logs and the only way it would cut was dogged in - and that’s in green Red Oak!

 

[Wilhelm]

... Oregon Duracut aka multi cut

Inferior to stihl RM

IMHO, the fancier the products name the worse its performance!

I haven't purchased Oregon chains in over a decade, so my experience may relate to old stock.

Just suck it up and try Husqvarna X-Cut, if You haven't already.
It is superior to Oregon LGX/LPX.

 

[davidwyby]

I bought some of the triple chrome plated Oregon semi-chisel 2 years ago to try in dirty conditions and I really dislike using it. I’ve tried different sharpening angles and depth gauge heights, and I just can not get it to perform. I just tried it again the other day on a couple logs and the only way it would cut was dogged in - and that’s in green Red Oak!

I feel better now. Only way I could get it to cut well was to put so much hook in it that it was delicate despite the “triple chrome”. I have a theory from looking at Oregon and stihl chain. 10° down on the file puts the working corner up where it should be vs. down on the side how Oregon is. Unfortunately my USG has offset but not tilt.




@huskihl also pointed out the stihl RM is less rounded. It’s interesting how different cutter geometry translates to different shapes/angles even when ground at the same settings on my USG.

My plan for these chains is to put a durable grind on them, drop the rakers, and let the 3120, the Euc, and the CBN wheel Kill them.

 

[Squareground3691]

I feel better now. Only way I could get it to cut well was to put so much hook in it that it was delicate despite the “triple chrome”. I have a theory from looking at Oregon and stihl chain. 10° down on the file puts the working corner up where it should be vs. down on the side how Oregon is. Unfortunately my USG has offset but not tilt.

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View attachment 401138

@huskihl also pointed out the stihl RM is less rounded. It’s interesting how different cutter geometry translates to different shapes/angles even when ground at the same settings on my USG.

My plan for these chains is to put a durable grind on them, drop the rakers, and let the 3120, the Euc, and the CBN wheel Kill them.

I did the same, more aggressive hook ,

 

[davidwyby]

* I'm not one of those that think safety chain cuts significantly slower than std...but I DO hate how it gets in the way of my progressive raker guides.

 

[Squareground3691]

* I'm not one of those that think safety chain cuts significantly slower than std...but I DO hate how it gets in the way of my progressive raker guides.

You get that 300 grit CBN ?

 

[davidwyby]

You get that 300 grit CBN ?

not yet

I keep meaning to try some dremel bits i have that seem fine

 

[Philbert]

Pressure washing it out helps. Keeps dust down too.

Several companies make battery powered pressure washers, that can draw water from a 5 gallon bucket.

Something I would consider in the right situation.

Philbert

 

[Moparmyway]

* I'm not one of those that think safety chain cuts significantly slower than std...but I DO hate how it gets in the way of my progressive raker guides.

Use a digital angle gauge on a small piece of flat steel (1x4 or longer).

I get that the progressive works great, I use it.

But for race chain or “others” that the progressive doesn’t work on, it’s pretty easy and quick, super accurate too

 

[Mastermind]

Great thread Andy.

 

[Loony661]

I feel better now. Only way I could get it to cut well was to put so much hook in it that it was delicate despite the “triple chrome”. I have a theory from looking at Oregon and stihl chain. 10° down on the file puts the working corner up where it should be vs. down on the side how Oregon is. Unfortunately my USG has offset but not tilt.

View attachment 401137
View attachment 401138

@huskihl also pointed out the stihl RM is less rounded. It’s interesting how different cutter geometry translates to different shapes/angles even when ground at the same settings on my USG.

My plan for these chains is to put a durable grind on them, drop the rakers, and let the 3120, the Euc, and the CBN wheel Kill them.

I did the same, more aggressive hook ,

I’ll have to try even more hook and see what happens.

 

[Loony661]

Great thread Andy.

Thank you, sir. Everyone deals with this at some point.

 

[Mastermind]

Thank you, sir. Everyone deals with this at some point.

I'm looking at a chainsaw mounted debarker to use on dirty logs at the band mill.