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346XP OE 45 CC developed hard starting problem

malk315

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Hey Guys-

So our 346XP OE saw that is completely stock has started being a brat to start when cold. I pull the choke and pull to start it several times and eventually it seems to flood instead of popping like it should. Pretty sure I smell gas. Tried with choke in and holding the throttle wide open (pull the trigger and try starting) and that didn't clear it's throat either.

What I found once it gets flooded like this if I leave the choke in and leave throttle alone and pull it many many more times eventually it will fire and quit (no pop). I can pull several more time and it will fire and run a bit longer each time til it finally runs and idles. Let it warm up and it actually runs quite well -- no problems.

Suggestions on what I should start looking at?

I noticed when it finally started if I gave it throttle it would bog and quit and had to really let it get warm before I could trigger w/o bogging. Noticed the carb has a limiter preventing richening it anymore so I trimmed the limiter off so I could richen it a bit more. Next time it was cold the bog was gone when I finally got it running and it four cycles a bit more at WOT and cuts well -- I think it was a bit lean but not dangerous lean.

Oh -- the plug was recently changed to try and help -- no change.
I'm wondering if the coil is weak. i.e. weak so when starting cold with the choke it's not enough spark to pop and ignite the very rich fuel charge a choked carb will deliver.

Any ideas appreciated. Thanks guys.
 

huskyboy

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Has the issue happened suddenly or gotten worse over time?
 

malk315

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Sounds like maybe the needle in the carb is letting fuel through when it sits. Have you tried starting from cold with no choke at all? Just fast idle?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll try starting from cold next time w/ just high idle set. If it behaves the same, then I'm assuming gas getting in when she sits. If it starts to fire and get going sooner I'm going to assume its not collecting gas.

@Keith Gandy I'm not sure what you mean by popoff setting @ the carb.

@sunfish I'll check the piston and changing a fuel line is always a good idea! Even though we have a 350 and another 346 we will keep this one :)
A friend of my brother borrowed it and returned it with fried piston no compression. He had a local shop put a new OEM 45 cc piston/cylinder in it and it's been great for probably a couple of year now. Hoping the top end isn't smoked again -- the stinking limiter doesn't help as it was out on the limiter but... 4 cycling at WOT. Compression feels decent, but I can check I've got a decent tester. If it's smoked again I'll change the top end provided seals an bearings are still good.

I don't have an extra carb. I'm guessing Zama with the limiter wings I've already removed on the H needle. I'll dig more into it and see what I'm dealing with.
Wanted to get the ideas going here before I go further. Thanks guys.
 

Jchin

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Hi Mr Malk315, This is Jack from Warwick, RI. I maybe able to help you. These Husqvarna 346xp NE and OE, 353, 350 are my little saws I like to work on. You are in Lancaster, Ma off route 190, and I am about 1 1/2 hour away. I can bring each of these saws with me, let you start them to check its running condition, then take the carb and install it on your saw to see if it is the solution to your carb problem. I also have new oem spiral fuel line and fuel filter if it needs to be changed. I also can bring a Zama RB122 carb rebuild kit with me if your card is a Zama. We can take the muffler and spark plug off and take a look inside the cylinder and piston to check for any scoring. I have all the tools needed. Let me know if I can help. Thanks.

Jack
 

jakethesnake

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Hi Mr Malk315, This is Jack from Warwick, RI. I maybe able to help you. These Husqvarna 346xp NE and OE, 353, 350 are my little saws I like to work on. You are in Lancaster, Ma off route 190, and I am about 1 1/2 hour away. I can bring each of these saws with me, let you start them to check its running condition, then take the carb and install it on your saw to see if it is the solution to your carb problem. I also have new oem spiral fuel line and fuel filter if it needs to be changed. I also can bring a Zama RB122 carb rebuild kit with me if your card is a Zama. We can take the muffler and spark plug off and take a look inside the cylinder and piston to check for any scoring. I have all the tools needed. Let me know if I can help. Thanks.

Jack
That’s just cool
 

jakethesnake

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Sorry to jump in here but what is the high idle on a 346???? I have had two of these. Still have them. One is needin a crank... I know nothing of this high idle
 

malk315

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Hi Mr Malk315, This is Jack from Warwick, RI. I maybe able to help you. These Husqvarna 346xp NE and OE, 353, 350 are my little saws I like to work on. You are in Lancaster, Ma off route 190, and I am about 1 1/2 hour away. I can bring each of these saws with me, let you start them to check its running condition, then take the carb and install it on your saw to see if it is the solution to your carb problem. I also have new oem spiral fuel line and fuel filter if it needs to be changed. I also can bring a Zama RB122 carb rebuild kit with me if your card is a Zama. We can take the muffler and spark plug off and take a look inside the cylinder and piston to check for any scoring. I have all the tools needed. Let me know if I can help. Thanks.

Jack

Jack -- that is a really cool offer! You are one of the most giving people I know -- I remember when you sent an 044 if I remember right to a buddy of Jason who had some saws stolen or something along those lines. I sent along a 20" Husky small mount bar for the cause.

I'm scheduled to go see Dan @paragonbuilder soon he is in Norwich, CT. Dan is 1 hr for me and 1 hr for you, perhaps we could do a wrenching session again if Dan is OK with that. Dan is having a GTG early April -- check out the GTG subforum you should definitely join us for that event I believe April 7th being you are only 1 hour from Dan.

I don't want to put Dan on the spot here being this a public forum, but this is pretty standard camaraderie amongst those who enjoy saws and Dan can chime in if we could visit and take a look at this 346. I'm also bringing a couple of other saws to Dans when I head down there we may put at least the bottom end of a 365 special I've got all disassembled, cleaned, and ready to rebuild with a box of parts from Bob spike60.

So Jack I'll keep you posted -- no worries for now I'll take the muffler off and checkout piston and cylinder and do some further diagnosis.
If it works out we can meet up -- potentially at Dans or if you want to make the trek to Massachusetts I'll let you know!

Cheers!
 

malk315

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Sorry to jump in here but what is the high idle on a 346???? I have had two of these. Still have them. One is needin a crank... I know nothing of this high idle

Hey Jake -- no need for apologies! Are you asking what the RPMs are for high idle or more for how it works mechanically?

On the mechanical part if you pull the choke it sets high idle. At cold start pulling choke out chokes the saw and sets high idle to help get the "pop" where it runs for a moment and quits after a few pulls.

If you push the choke in, the high idle remains set until you pull the throttle trigger and the mechanical stop that keeps the throttle butterfly open a bit more gets out of the way and you will idle normally.

For when a saw is not cold, but also not very warm (sat for 45 mins say on a cool day) I will pull the choke and push it in and try starting -- does the trick many times on my 372. If it doesn't start w/ just the high idle set, I then pull the choke and give it a couple pulls til the saw pops, push choke in, start saw and let it warm for a bit on high idle and go back to work.

If you know all of this already no worries! Might be good info if some folks new to saws or the forum reads this.

Cheers.
 

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jakethesnake

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Hey Jake -- no need for apologies! Are you asking what the RPMs are for high idle or more for how it works mechanically?

On the mechanical part if you pull the choke it sets high idle. At cold start pulling choke out chokes the saw and sets high idle to help get the "pop" where it runs for a moment and quits after a few pulls.

If you push the choke in, the high idle remains set until you pull the throttle trigger and the mechanical stop that keeps the throttle butterfly open a bit more gets out of the way and you will idle normally.

For when a saw is not cold, but also not very warm (sat for 45 mins say on a cool day) I will pull the choke and push it in and try starting -- does the trick many times on my 372. If it doesn't start w/ just the high idle set, I then pull the choke and give it a couple pulls til the saw pops, push choke in, start saw and let it warm for a bit on high idle and go back to work.

If you know all of this already no worries! Might be good info if some folks new to saws or the forum reads this.

Cheers.
10/4 I’m with you now. I guess somewhere in my brain I knew that. Never tried starting one that way though. Thanks for the summary. I’m now with you
 

Jchin

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I am planning to attend Dan's CT GTG in April and hoping to meet fellow OPE members. I don't mind making the trek to Mass at all. I enjoy driving and maybe we can fix your 346 now, to see if we can cure your problem before April. Your call....
 
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