2511t: Four years on the truck

[Ketchup]

I had a couple of 2511T's on the bench today, one didn't need anything but the other was leaking at the cylinder/base as well as the crankcase itself. I was able to get both the cylinder and crankcase sealed using Dirko HT.

I was curious about this removable bit in the transfers. Slips right in there and the saw was running fine (eventually) once I got it back together. It did not appear to be broken, actually looked like it's designed that way.

View attachment 384242

I'm not sure who did the port work or muffler mods on these two but they are snappy.

Can anyone explain how to access the fuel lines? They didn't need anything now but I expect one day it will be necessary to replace them.

Mark

Looks like the transfer insert has been modified for more flow. They just sit in there. I’ve glued a few in, modded lots and now I think you can just get rid of it altogether (if you grind the upper).

The fuel lines are on top of the tank assembly under a plastic cover plate that snaps in. There’s a main tank grommet with the vent spigot and holes for the pickup and return lines.


The other side is mostly molded pieces that fit in and through the carb box. All of it can be removed or installed without pulling the handle. I haven’t seen many problems with fuel lines on these. Just the leaky tank vents.

 

[huskihl]

I had a couple of 2511T's on the bench today, one didn't need anything but the other was leaking at the cylinder/base as well as the crankcase itself. I was able to get both the cylinder and crankcase sealed using Dirko HT.

I was curious about this removable bit in the transfers. Slips right in there and the saw was running fine (eventually) once I got it back together. It did not appear to be broken, actually looked like it's designed that way.

View attachment 384242

I'm not sure who did the port work or muffler mods on these two but they are snappy.

Can anyone explain how to access the fuel lines? They didn't need anything now but I expect one day it will be necessary to replace them.

Mark

Be mindful of your Dirko. That cylinder extension bottoms out about .005” before the base seats tight to the cylinder. Given Dirko’s known traits, it may very well last forever.

 

[heimannm]

Kevin - I did not use a straight edges and feeler gauge, but using my thumbnail it did not seem to be proud of the base.

Ketchup - thanks for that, if they come back at least I will know how to get at the fuel, vent, and return lines.

Mark

 

[Ketchup]

@vrex , @Crocky28


Finally got a .325 nano setup. It trims better than expected and removes a little worse. Cuts are very clean down to 3/4” diameter and the nose isn’t bad at all for sneaking around stuff you don’t want to cut. But in bigger dead wood the chain chatters. That’s a 14” and the saw will pull it, but if I push too hard or get aggressive with the dogs it will bite too deep and jam. The bar also seems to hold back on oil. The chain was looking (and feeling) dry in anything bigger than 10” cuts.

This was my first day using it, I’ll run it for the week and see how it does.

 

[vrex]

@vrex , @Crocky28
View attachment 386168

Finally got a .325 nano setup. It trims better than expected and removes a little worse. Cuts are very clean down to 3/4” diameter and the nose isn’t bad at all for sneaking around stuff you don’t want to cut. But in bigger dead wood the chain chatters. That’s a 14” and the saw will pull it, but if I push too hard or get aggressive with the dogs it will bite too deep and jam. The bar also seems to hold back on oil. The chain was looking (and feeling) dry in anything bigger than 10” cuts.

This was my first day using it, I’ll run it for the week and see how it does.

I’ve been running the same bar, and finding it’ll work through a 10 limb ok with modulation. Who has time for modulation? Gotta keep moving, tree wont disassemble itself. My saw has one of Joe’s dogs on it, not too big, not too small, good bite. I’m curious, is the saw this bar on fully worked over in terms of porting? Mine is has a BGD, air filter modified, and Egan pipe. It’s probably poorly tuned, like not overly rich but I bet there’s more in there. My fleabay tac of unknown accuracy reads 13,200-400 free revving. Laziness has kept me from spending time actually dialing it in in the cut. She cleans up when buried and pressure modulated but I’m sure there’s more rpm available. Anyhow, I’m wondering if a fully ported 2511 can outrun this chain, causing binding. Does tightening the chain up a smidge help for you? I agree about oiling, it’s not the saw it’s the bar. She slings oil on the stock bar but I think the oiler hole in the bar could be opened up a hair. In the end, I suspect 3/8 .043 on a fully ported 2511 will be the ticket, but I find this to be quite capable setup as I sit now.

 

[vrex]

Or 1/4 .050 stihl 13rm, if one chooses to figure that out bar wise.

 

[ZERO]

Nice thread. Thanks for posting. Good to see how one is holding up after that amount of time. I think they’re pretty strong wee saws apart from some plastic parts.

I have a lot out there that I’ve ported and I’ve never had one back. I think for the money, weight and power you can get out them there’s no reason to be climbing with anything else.

Mark nice to see they are holding up well.

Only reason I stayed away from these is that I do not have a local drive to dealer.

 

[Crocky28]

Mark nice to see they are holding up well.

Only reason I stayed away from these is that I do not have a local drive to dealer.

Definitely worth a look at next time you’re thinking of one. Parts are readily available online. I wouldn’t be worried about dealer support. They’re a great wee saw.

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Hey Ketchup, hows that freeporter working, i got carried away and ended up taking like .1 off the base to catchup to my squish band. Are you still jbing the intake? Im thinking 110, 130, Im at 75ish on intake are you filling them up to 65ish?

 

[Ketchup]

I haven’t noticed any issues with the freeport but I only took .058” off the base. I think 75 intake should be fine. Not sure what mine is at. 78?

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Thanks to my new janky precision router table, a little sketchy but way better than the sander. Now i can do the 201's without losing the ears and case compression.

 

[davidwyby]

Thanks to my new janky precision router table, a little sketchy but way better than the sander. Now i can do the 201's without losing the ears and case compression.

*&^$$ you been?!

 

[Nutball]

I haven’t noticed any issues with the freeport but I only took .058” off the base. I think 75 intake should be fine. Not sure what mine is at. 78?

No problems with the ring running off the plating? Is that .058 off and no gasket, or with gasket? Any particular port mods that really make a noticeable improvement? I'm about to put my strongest 2511t back together for the gtg and am wondering if I should tweak anything. I really didn't do much to it.

 

[Ketchup]

No problems with the ring running off the plating? Is that .058 off and no gasket, or with gasket? Any particular port mods that really make a noticeable improvement? I'm about to put my strongest 2511t back together for the gtg and am wondering if I should tweak anything. I really didn't do much to it.

With a gasket. I think you could go a little further before you ran out of plating. I was in my notes the other day as well and saw my intake is only 72.

The last few I have done the transfers are wide open but the primaries are at 125 and secondaries 128. Stuffer is gone, piston and flange are matched at BDC. I even clearance the gasket a tiny bit. They may not be faster but I think they perform better in deep cuts.

 

[Nutball]

72 is a good intake for small engines. You don't widen or change it's shape? I don't it doesn't seem to need it. I would think a lower intake might be good for a no stuffers engine. I'm kinda surprised you remove them, though it may help low end torque, right?

I already work the piston and flange. I wouldn't cut more than .058 off the base, it seems too risky, and is more than I usually go, but I already went there with this saw.

Do you cut the squish or make a popup?

 

[Ketchup]

I completely agree. 0.058” is a far as I would go and won’t work with a BGD. 0.050” might be more optimal. I usually do 0.038”
I’ve messed with the intake a variety of ways and haven’t found a definitive gain. This saw is widened just enough to texture it. Most I leave stock.
Piston and squish are cut on this one. 0.021” out of the band and 0.018” off the piston. Still experimenting with the piston. I don’t usually do pop-ups because they make repairs more difficult for the average user.
Same thinking with the gasket. This way you can tear the whole saw apart, clean everything and put it back together in about an hour.

I feel like this saw holds rpm in the cut a bit better with a 14” bar. It still drops well below the scream it has in small cuts, but then it just sits in low gear and moves chips. For the .325 nano or 3/8 .043 I think the bigger transfer is better. Hard to say with a 1/4” setup. I feel like that setup is prone to binding in a full 12-14” depth cut. I’m probably going to leave this one with .325 nano and set up a different saw for pruning.

 

[Nutball]

I usually do 0.038”

Same for me, but I don't cut the squish, just a popup.

 

[Ketchup]

Same for me, but I don't cut the squish, just a popup.

I’ve talked with several people that do it that way. Makes sense. You’re taking 0.018” off the piston?

 

[Nutball]

You’re taking 0.018” off the piston?

Somewhere around there.

 

[ZERO]

In the quarter-pitch realm, any aftermarket stihl or husqvarna bars that will fit this saw, or do they all require some modification?