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RI Chevy

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There are SUPPOSED to be 4 magnets inside the flywheel. I found 2 in place, 1 obviously misaligned and 1 completely missing. Nowhere to be found.
Lol. Yup. That'll do it. Good find.
 
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drf256

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A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't o_O
My welds ain’t too pretty. Truth be told, it’s not easy to make nice beads when one is at different angles with different material that are embedded with impurities. Making on flat plate is easy.

That’s a @Red97 stainless deflector that nearly ruined every thin metal cutting tool I own. It must be .125 thick and the muffler around .030 thick. I had to cover the two holes,made by the poprivets as well, so the entire procedure was “*f-wordit, gotta make this air tight and not blow through the this muffler”.

I shoulda Tig brazed it with silicon bronze filler rod. Would made for a better look with the dissimilar material thickness.

They make stainless and silbronze mig wire. Silbronze is what you guys should try. I hear the mig wire ain’t cheap though.

You can also change the heat of your MIGs by altering your gas a bit. More CO2 makes more heat, more Argon makes less. Your gas supplier should be able to make you up 80/20 or 90/10 Ar/CO2 for a fine tune. Straight CO2 is cheap and will make your settings hotter than they are. Uglier welds, but the CO2 stays in solid form and a bottle lasts about 8x the time the same size Argon mix bottle will.
 
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My welds ain’t too pretty. Truth be told, it’s not easy to make nice beads when one is at different angles with different material that are embedded with impurities. Making on flat plate is easy.

That’s a @Red97 stainless deflector that nearly ruined every thin metal cutting tool I own. It must be .125 thick and the muffler around .030 thick. I had to cover the two holes,made by the poprivets as well, so the entire procedure was “*f-wordit, gotta make this air tight and not blow through the this muffler”.

I shoulda Tig brazed it with silicon bronze filler rod. Would made for a better look with the dissimilar material thickness.

They make stainless and silbronze mig wire. Silbronze is what you guys should try. I hear the mig wire ain’t cheap though.

You can also change the heat of your MIGs by altering your gas a bit. More CO2 makes more heat, more Argon makes less. Your gas supplier should be able to make you up 80/20 or 90/10 Ar/CO2 for a fine tune. Straight CO2 is cheap and will make your settings hotter than they are. Uglier welds, but the CO2 stays in solid form and a bottle lasts about 8x the time the same size Argon mix bottle will.

Your welds aren’t gorgeous, but for unlike materials and different thicknesses; ain’t nothin to be ashamed of. The deflector isn’t going to fall off and the vast majority of people wouldn’t know enough to critique it.

MIG wire isn’t cheap. I am familiar with the use of gas to change weld interactions but I am a little OCD and like the ability to fine tune the power. The amount of stainless I would weld doesn’t justify a special gas blend, at least for me.

I’m selling off a bunch of my old/leftover gear to fund a mini mill. I have some training and experience in a machine shop and know enough to get me in trouble. Vast majority of my machining experience is working on firearms. Working on saws isn’t the driving force; I do A LOT of tinkering and I’m sick of not having the proper tools. Kind of a “jack of all trades” and pride myself on being able to do just about anything. I miss having a full shop at my disposal.
 

Canadian farm boy

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What happened Mike? Screw hole enlarged? You melt/weld some plastic string in there?
That's exactly how I fixed it.
If I had to guess I'd say someone put a screw in there that was to short and it pulled out of the plastic and ovaled out the hole. This is the screw that was in it and the hole was full of siliconeIMG_6586.JPG
 

Cut4fun

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Guy might be backing out of this one. Told him running and now he is hem hawing around. If he does I am going to put a decomp in it with different cyl cover or maybe open a hole.
 

FergusonTO35

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My actual work bench is covered with bullet casting stuff and service manuals, so the service cart and garage floor is basically my work bench. Just finished getting my Murray RER and push mower going. Up next is putting the bumper back on my wife's 2011 Honda Accord. We hit a big tree branch that fell across the road awhile back. It yanked the bumper right off but miraculously did not damage it much other than some plastic panels on the bottom. I just went to Napa today and ordered $30.00 worth of body clips for it, hopefully that is all it will take.
 
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Waiting on parts for both Dolmars (7900 and 133) and both Stihls (038 Mag and 041/041Super).

Headlights on my Expedition are starting to show UV damage, driver’s side being worse that passenger. Popped it off and started to “restore” it. Started wet sanding with 320, then 400 to 600 to 800 to 2000. Headlight looked awesome and was all set for the coating of adhesion promoter and UV protectant. Thouroghly prepped and sprayed the adhesion promoter...... It didn’t take. Instead of staying clear and penetrating, it caked and cracked. Followed the directions precisely. I had no choice but to start all over again! Have to drive to work and appointments today with 1 partially sanded doofy looking headlight. I wanted to throw the damn thing across the garage.
 

tickbitintn

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Once you have it finished with 2000 grit buff it like a paint job. Then wax it and treat it like a painted surface. It works good, and saves you some money.
That's what I do also.
Wax will keep the uv off of it, which is what causes it to yellow.

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