High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

What's on your bench?

heimannm

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I try to leave the shop and museum open even when I am gone for a few hours in case someone stops by and wants to look around or leave something to be worked on.

I came back yesterday after having been out most of the morning to find this...

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The owner did give me a call to let me know the back story. He says he's not planning on running them for a while so I can take my time going over them.

There are a bunch of chains that need attention in the big bucket.

Mark
 

heimannm

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Some weeks back a fellow traded me an anvil in exchange for putting his 285CD back together. He said it just locked up when he was running it and had torn it apart but did not feel confident to put it back together. Piston and cylinder were fine, I think all that happened was the flywheel key had sheared off and the lost bit must have been jammed in somewhere behind the flywheel. The flywheel nut and the threads on the crankshaft were in pretty bad shape so I'm guessing it was never properly tightened to begin with.

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I think those 2 Series saws would be a lot more user friendly if they came with a compression release...

Mark
 

Fleethirte

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Some weeks back a fellow traded me an anvil in exchange for putting his 285CD back together. He said it just locked up when he was running it and had torn it apart but did not feel confident to put it back together. Piston and cylinder were fine, I think all that happened was the flywheel key had sheared off and the lost bit must have been jammed in somewhere behind the flywheel. The flywheel nut and the threads on the crankshaft were in pretty bad shape so I'm guessing it was never properly tightened to begin with.

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I think those 2 Series saws would be a lot more user friendly if they came with a compression release...

Mark
Does the anvil ring pretty loud being welded to a metal stand?
 

farminkarman

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Jred 630V. This was a raffle saw I won a couple years back (not a runner). I got it running and found out the clutch drum was shot and the heated handle switch was broken. The saw didn’t seem as strong as I thought it should be. I think this might splain some of it. Notice the oil? That is what dominator at 32:1 looks like. I got a meteor piston coming for it.IMG_0128.jpeg
 
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Jusgunn3

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Jred 630V. This was a raffle saw I won a couple years back (not a runner). I got it running and found out the clutch drum was shot and the heated handle switch was broken. The saw didn’t seem as strong as I thought it should be. I think this might splain some of it. Notice the oil? That is what dominator at 32:1 looks like. I got a meteor piston coming for it.View attachment 476594
That oil makes me happy, I am going to assume my saws look the same now after switching to Dominator 🙂
 

av8or3

So many saw ... so little time...
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Jred 630V. This was a raffle saw I won a couple years back (not a runner). I got it running and found out the clutch drum was shot and the heated handle switch was broken. The saw didn’t seem as strong as I thought it should be. I think this might splain some of it. Notice the oil? That is what dominator at 32:1 looks like. I got a meteor piston coming for it.View attachment 476594
That piston took a s*it before the Dominator right?
 

Wilhelm

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Well it has become very obvious to me that I somehow sabotaged my own saw. As soon as I started tearing it down, I removed the air filter and noticed that the screws were loose. I looked in the elbow and carb inlet and they were caked in sawdust. That’s not good…

Then when I got around to pulling the cylinder off, it became obvious that this was not a “fines getting through” situation. There was larger sawdust caked all up in the crankcase. I never imagined that a saw could get like this, let alone my own saw. Take a look at the pictures…

Now I know to ALWAYS make sure that the air filter is tightened down before I go cutting.
That is one way to stuff Your saws crankcase!

Now use proper oil to increase compression through carbon buildup.
From experience I can recommend mineral 15W40 (atmospheric diesel tractor engine oil) at 25:1 or higher, does wonders in so many ways. :thumbsup:
 

jacktheripper

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Today I got the crank case together with new bearings. I’ve always used a sealant like dirko on the case gasket, but this will be an experiment. I left the gasket bare.
 

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jacktheripper

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I also went through my new barn find white top 61 practica. I removed the muffler baffle, replaced the coil, rebuilt the carb, and replaced the fuel line and filter.

It was also missing a bar stud, so I modified a 272 bar stud to fit. That involved trimming the rectangular plate on the end of the stud into a square, grinding the shoulder that the bar rests on back, tapping the threads deeper, and trimming the overall length down about a quarter inch.

I didn’t do crank seals and seal carrier o-rings, but I will be doing them soon.

The saw fired up and idled nicely. No obvious evidence of any air leaks. It cleaned up pretty well, but I still have some work to do with removing hardened sap spots on it.
 

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EFSM

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Today I got the crank case together with new bearings. I’ve always used a sealant like dirko on the case gasket, but this will be an experiment. I left the gasket bare.
If the case surfaces are good, bare is as or more reliable than with sealant.
 

singinwoodwackr

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I also went through my new barn find white top 61 practica. I removed the muffler baffle, replaced the coil, rebuilt the carb, and replaced the fuel line and filter.

It was also missing a bar stud, so I modified a 272 bar stud to fit. That involved trimming the rectangular plate on the end of the stud into a square, grinding the shoulder that the bar rests on back, tapping the threads deeper, and trimming the overall length down about a quarter inch.

I didn’t do crank seals and seal carrier o-rings, but I will be doing them soon.

The saw fired up and idled nicely. No obvious evidence of any air leaks. It cleaned up pretty well, but I still have some work to do with removing hardened sap spots on it.
I coulda sent you a stud :p
 

Wilhelm

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A lot nicer than the GENUINE HUSQVARNA OEM one I have! Are these stocking stuffers? 😁
I started just making my own 79xx clutch tool, the prototypes were ugly and the first version skinny.
Then I made 3 Husqvarna versions on a request as apparently the OEM ones don't hold up long to repeated use.
I've been told the OEM Husky & Dolmar clutch removal tools are made out of sun hardened chewed up bubblegum, so my goal was to make mine as beefy as possible which in turn made them very clutch model specific.
I ended up making a severely beefed up Version.2 79xx tool too - very happy how they all turned out.

Stocking stuffers? 🤔
I could be persuaded.
Is this the kind of stockings we are talking about? :p

stockings2.jpg
 
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