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beaglebriar

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When I was a kid we had one similar. It was made to be driven by a car or truck. You had to block up one side of the vehicle and the other side had rollers that the tire sat on. We never could get it to work very well.
 

X 66 stang347 X

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Started on the old model L77. Think I found the parts I need to start. I found a NOS muffler from a member. I also needed a clutch, bushings, Tillotson carb rebuilt, found a piston and ordered from the U.K. And gaskets.
I now remember why my dad quit using it. The paint in the tank started turning loose and kept stopping up the carb then it ran lean. The cylinder cleaned up and still has the cross hatches. This was a NOS cylinder put on in mid 90's so I was glad it came back. I stripped the paint out of the tank and now it's bare. Should I coat it with anything or keep it full of fuel so it doesn't oxidize? I'm still undecided if I want to paint it to factory color or leave it as is. Ive found Parts aren't a dime a dozen since parts haven't been made in 30 years.
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X 66 stang347 X

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I know. I'm putting a 20" on and still keeping the bow. The bow was rebuilt not long before it got out to the pasture. There is no safely anything on this saw. I remember he would cut the tree down and buck it with the bow and these weren't small trees either. I wouldn't attempt to cut a tree down with a bow.
 

PA Dan

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I saw it at the local shop last year for a tune up, couldn't believe my eyes. Exchanged contact info incase he wanted to sell. Sad thing is he was ready when it lost comp. Now it's mine
Awesome! I have one in a box on my bench. It should get together after hunting season ends! No red light on mine!
 

Stump Shot

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When I was a kid we had one similar. It was made to be driven by a car or truck. You had to block up one side of the vehicle and the other side had rollers that the tire sat on. We never could get it to work very well.

While it does not replace a hydraulic splitter, it is handy for the smaller wood that gets harvested on the property here. Splits oak the best, white pine probably the worst as there is always some stringy stuff holding on that needs a quick chop with a hatchet. Has the splitting maul beat all to heck.
 

Landmark

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Started on the old model L77.
I now remember why my dad quit using it. The paint in the tank started turning loose and kept stopping up the carb then it ran lean. The cylinder cleaned up and still has the cross hatches. This was a NOS cylinder put on in mid 90's so I was glad it came back. I stripped the paint out of the tank and now it's bare. Should I coat it with anything or keep it full of fuel so it doesn't oxidize? I'm still undecided if I want to paint it to factory color or leave it as is. Ive found Parts aren't a dime a dozen since parts haven't been made in 30 years.
I used a tank coating in a motorcycle tank once. Not sure it will work the same on a chainsaw. Different material you are adhereing to. Maybe sombody will chime in who knows.
 

Redfin

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Word of advise if you use the tank coatings. The type I have used comes with an etcher to prime the tank before coating. It will eat the paint right now when it touches it.

I have used it on two old motorcycle tanks with good results.
 

Stump Shot

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If I split the cases or it's a tank that splits I clean 'em scuff 'em and re-paint. I tend not to worry about it much otherwise. I only use non ethanol fuel though. I would have to re- think this if I had to run ethanol. So far I'm not noticing any corrosion in the tanks, I think that the oil in the fuel helps. So far (knock on wood) I haven't had to go to too much extreme on the older metal tanked saws.
Finding new tank gaskets and sealing up leaks is a whole other story though.
 

Stump Shot

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@rattler I did ask about the cranks this morning, basically he was ever so slightly shimming the bottom of the counter weight between it and the blocks of steel used in the press. Also said it would go in and out of the lathe up to 50 times, he would hold it in his hand and give it a whack with a soft hammer, then back in the lathe. He also said a jig is the way to go if only working with on style of crank, that's why he does it the way he does, always something different coming along.
He said he has a 2 stroke motorcycle crank to do as some point in the future so I asked if I could get in on his process. So I will try to attend and take some pictures of the process he uses. Sounded to me like a rob Peter to pay Paul kind of a thing as like I wondered, where are you going to find connecting rod bearings? SS
 

rattler

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@rattler I did ask about the cranks this morning, basically he was ever so slightly shimming the bottom of the counter weight between it and the blocks of steel used in the press. Also said it would go in and out of the lathe up to 50 times, he would hold it in his hand and give it a whack with a soft hammer, then back in the lathe. He also said a jig is the way to go if only working with on style of crank, that's why he does it the way he does, always something different coming along.
He said he has a 2 stroke motorcycle crank to do as some point in the future so I asked if I could get in on his process. So I will try to attend and take some pictures of the process he uses. Sounded to me like a rob Peter to pay Paul kind of a thing as like I wondered, where are you going to find connecting rod bearings? SS
Thank you for the info I appericate it alot. I don't know about the bearing but will try to find some information on it I have a old 385 that needs a big end rod bearing.
 

Sty57

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Final wiring done.....
View attachment 40352

Grounding spot is found behind serial tag.
View attachment 40353
Tor, on my Dads 550. The head of that ground screw broke off and the heat didn't work. I still can figure out why the head would of came off.
The only thing I could guess is when it was assembled they tighten it so much that it was just about sheared and just fell off from time.
 
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