What's on your bench?

[eric4]

Spoke with someone on the phone today at LRB, and I gave them the proper dimensions for the circlips. They'll be shipping them out Monday. Fingers crossed these will fit!

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Complete tear down and cleaning of the dolmar 3410th plus porting, MM and timing advance. Ready to go back together, just waiting on a new ring.

 

[bulletpruf]

MDT Field Stock showed up for my Remington 700 in .308. Unfortunately, the OD green ones were backordered so I just got a black one.



And picked up a can of this stuff. Lays down really nice.



Put two coats on it, and then did the stock swap.

 

[Tor R]

346 project:

 

[eric4]

Complete tear down and cleaning of the dolmar 3410th plus porting, MM and timing advance. Ready to go back together, just waiting on a new ring. View attachment 448932

What's the overall opinion on this saw? It's hard to find much, but I've got one in the mail coming my way. Would they benefit from a muffler mod + timing advance, even without porting?

 

[Wilhelm]

What's the overall opinion on this saw? It's hard to find much, but I've got one in the mail coming my way. Would they benefit from a muffler mod + timing advance, even without porting?

I have a PS-3400TH and she is a powerhouse of a top handle fully stock.

I was told to bend the reed valve limiter sheet as far back as possible and enjoy the saw liven up.
Haven't done it yet though.

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

What's the overall opinion on this saw? It's hard to find much, but I've got one in the mail coming my way. Would they benefit from a muffler mod + timing advance, even without porting?

I'm the wrong guy to ask, I've never run one, yet. I never even bothered trying this one stock due to it needing some work. I figured I might as well give it some love while I'm in there.

I did read a timing advance, reed stops bent (carefull here, if you bend the to far they will hit the crank housing) out, and a muffler mod really wakes them up. I'm doing all that, plus I cut the base and bearing pockets to tighten the squish up, and ported it.

It should be a runner.

 

[bulletpruf]

Removed the 24" OEM barrel on the Remington 700 .308 and replaced with a RemAge 22" heavy barrel - MTU profile - made by Faxon.

Getting the barrel off was tough; had to use heat and a cheater bar on my action wrench. Setting the headspace was a bit tricky and time consuming. Otherwise, it was pretty straightforward.

 

[jacktheripper]

Removed the 24" OEM barrel on the Remington 700 .308 and replaced with a RemAge 22" heavy barrel - MTU profile - made by Faxon.

Getting the barrel off was tough; had to use heat and a cheater bar on my action wrench. Setting the headspace was a bit tricky and time consuming. Otherwise, it was pretty straightforward.

View attachment 449940

View attachment 449937View attachment 449938View attachment 449939

love those Faxon barrels

 

[eric4]

I'm the wrong guy to ask, I've never run one, yet. I never even bothered trying this one stock due to it needing some work. I figured I might as well give it some love while I'm in there.

I did read a timing advance, reed stops bent (carefull here, if you bend the to far they will hit the crank housing) out, and a muffler mod really wakes them up. I'm doing all that, plus I cut the base and bearing pockets to tighten the squish up, and ported it.

It should be a runner.

So cool, I didn't know this type of engine could have it's squish cut! I'd love to hear about how your muffler mod goes. Do you plan to uncrimp the muffler to remove the internals?

This dolmar 3410 will be my first 'reed' valve saw, so I'll have to do some reading up on bending it...

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

So cool, I didn't know this type of engine could have it's squish cut! I'd love to hear about how your muffler mod goes. Do you plan to uncrimp the muffler to remove the internals?

This dolmar 3410 will be my first 'reed' valve saw, so I'll have to do some reading up on bending it...

You definitely do all the normal cutting of the squish and base on a clam shell saw. The added work I'd cutting bearing pocket the the crank moves closer to the squish band to get the desired squish. Depending on how far you go you will also need to open up the crankcase are to clear the crank weights.

All the work is done to the saw. I'm still waiting on a ring before assembling it.

I'll post some pictures later.

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

@eric4 heres the pictures.

Baffle mods of the 3410th muffler. The exit of the Baffle is bigger than the entrance.

I like to leave the baffle for the extra support it offers.

Stock.


Modded.

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

@eric4 3410th muffler exit mods.

I always try to retain the spark arrester/screen, due to the fact I don't want to be guilty of starting fire. We have more month of dead grass than green grass.

Stock.


Modded, more than doubled in size, could go more.


Stock screen baffle.


Screen removed and the gole opened up some. The screen is now on the first hole.


Done.


By dimensions I've more then doubled the flow through the muffler. The next one I'll take even farther.

 

[farminkarman]

550xp squish band cut. I never noticed the factory band is tapered on these before today.

 

[Woodslasher]

Got a bigger carb put on the 361, modified an extra 066 linkage to fit. Then, because I'm on the West Coast, I rasped a wee little half moon outta a Maxflow cage to make it fit on the saw. Lastly, since the OP lever was m.i.a. I cut a piece of inner tube to keep the spring in place.

 

[Agent Smith]

Working on cleaning up husky 51 pieces on this snowy shìt stain of a day. Something i think some overlook is the crankshaft and cleaning off the baked on crud and maybe light corrosion from the seal and bearing areas. Roughness will quickly wear new seals to an air leak situation or leak right away if bad enough. I even hit the small end with a split mandrel and gray scotchbrite. Don't need to spend all weekend in there, just a few laps and its good. These surfaces need to be returned to a polished state for good sealing and bearing life imo. Obviously if there's pitting in the seal area, well the cranks junk unless one feels like welding, truing, machining, making sleeves, whatever.

 

[Agent Smith]

Someone was hungry for some well done clutch cover because things definitely got toasty in there and warped the shìt out of it. Spent an hour with the heat gun getting the warpage out and shaving melted plastic out with a razor blade. Seems more gooder now

 

[Woodwackr]

Working on cleaning up husky 51 pieces on this snowy shìt stain of a day. Something i think some overlook is the crankshaft and cleaning off the baked on crud and maybe light corrosion from the seal and bearing areas. Roughness will quickly wear new seals to an air leak situation or leak right away if bad enough. I even hit the small end with a split mandrel and gray scotchbrite. Don't need to spend all weekend in there, just a few laps and its good. These surfaces need to be returned to a polished state for good sealing and bearing life imo. Obviously if there's pitting in the seal area, well the cranks junk unless one feels like welding, truing, machining, making sleeves, whatever.

View attachment 450642View attachment 450643View attachment 450644View attachment 450645

But, but...with a lathe? Dang, wish I had one...and knew how to use it
I've always polished cranks with green scotchbrite, either by hand or with a slotted mandrel in the Fordum.

 

[Partner]

And who will forbid a rich person I wonder if it is with or without shaft support

 

[Agent Smith]

But, but...with a lathe? Dang, wish I had one...and knew how to use it
I've always polished cranks with green scotchbrite, either by hand or with a slotted mandrel in the Fordum.

Long ago, I used to chuck the crank up in a 1/2" cordless drill and go to town. It worked