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What's on your bench?

Wilhelm

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What? He did THIS on purpose? :eek:
I don't know what to tell You, I keep urging him to bring the saw/chain by whenever he is not using it - he just keeps saying "no need, still cuts great".
F-it, not my saw.
Even though, I am still the idiot that grinds off 2-3mm off all teeth each time he brings his chain/saw to me.
I guess I am lucky I purchased my MAXX PRO grinder, considering I used to file all chains!

I don't understand how someone responsible for providing required annual firewood for 2-3 decades and doing so by felling, limbing and bucking standing trees doesn't know what a sharp chain is!

People mock me when I make a couple bucking cuts, hit some embedded dirt and stop cutting because "the chain is dull".
Yet their yaws drop to the ground in disbelief when my saws make straight cuts through large diameter logs barely dropping in cut rpm and me NOT even touching the logs with my saws bucking spikes.

Each to their own, but I am getting sick of other peoples so called "knowledge" and I am in the process of cutting ties.
Life is to short and busy to endure others bulls#it!

The chain is still with me, I'll get "after" pictures.
 

WillG

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009L for a little love. Carb kit, fuel line and filter, tank vent and hose, spark plug and recoil rope
641d682f035b9727a88e6917223d80c2.jpg


Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
 

Matt Ellerbee

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PB8010 that I put a top end on a few months back. Any ideas what caused this? Both piston pin clips are in their place. 823C22A5-7E34-4C5C-9C90-94764C00BAD5.jpeg
Cylinder is unharmed, surprisingly. Small knick on rod too.E6269ED8-6122-4DF7-AF27-90A3DCA2C94A.jpeg
 

Matt Ellerbee

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Is the spark plug still intact?
Yes it is. I believe I found it. Big bearing race is missing a piece on inside. Hard to see, but she gone!8D89964C-01FB-498C-9B11-4D196D88F156.jpegE7FCC82C-9728-4665-8669-E94C24AEA1B6.jpeg
Guy said he was using it, and it just cut off. I did the usual checks, fuel, spark and compression felt good on the rope.
 

mettee

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Thanks, plan on having it buttoned up and running tomorrow. If not I will be sending you a pm.

Just be real focused when you put the cover on and use the two guide bolts to hold it up while you slide it on. You only have less than 30 minutes until the silicone sets and the torque sequence is a real *b-word. It takes longer. At least I did, but I only went over by 5 minutes.

Hopefully that makes sense.

Also, even though the water pump has an o ring use your finger to put some silicon on the outside of that o ring as a secondary external failure point.

It will still leak from the weap hole onto the alternator if the bearing fails, that's the tatle tail for the water pump.

timing cover.jpg

Ignore the first part of this blurb, and pay attention only to the torque spec. Wasnt sure if you had a manual or not, but it wasnt in the one I got and had to get it from my buddy at Ferd. Follow the numbered sequence up ^ there in that image. When you get to 21 and 22 pull out the "dowels" shown below and place the appropriate bolt there and torque it(last image).

upload_2022-9-20_23-32-43.png

I made these two bolts like this. You cut the heads off, and when you go to install the cover you use these to support the cover and slide it directly on and keep it from moving. If it moves that's bad. Put these in the top two inner bolt holes.

20220920_233302.jpg
 
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