Ok i got to ask only cause i here it a lot on here. What are you all talking about when you say its a 4 or 5 cube saw?View attachment 322737 View attachment 322738 View attachment 322739
One of my plans this year is to start adressing some of the mid range Homelite saws I own, the big 6 cubes are perfect runners when they need to be but I really would like some reliable 3-5 cubes ones to run along with the big ones.
First things first, I'll be doing seals for at least 3 Super Xl-12s and go from there.
There's a few aftermarket seal options now so I didn't have to mess around with 40yr old seals or hunting some elusive crossover.
I don't know for sure but my guess would be cubic inches, like a 4 cube saw would be a 65cc saw.Ok i got to ask only cause i here it a lot on here. What are you all talking about when you say its a 4 or 5 cube saw?
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Yup, Saws from 65-82 CC's. Probably used more to mean 60-80 CC's.I don't know for sure but my guess would be cubic inches, like a 4 cube saw would be a 65cc saw.
Got some more saw stuff. This will keep my busy for a bit now.
Ok i got to ask only cause i here it a lot on here. What are you all talking about when you say its a 4 or 5 cube saw?
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Does it have an impulse driven fuel pump?I have a GX390 clone that is kicking my butt. Fed by a fuel pump, for the last couple of months it has been dumping gas into the oil. I have had the carb off a couple of times. Float bowl is pristine, float has no liquid in it, pivots freely, needle valve, seat and spring look good. Runs great at full throttle, starts okay most of the time, but fills the sump with gas at idle or while ignition is on and I’m pulling the cord. Nothing has changed with the pumpitself, it’s been on there for years working fine till recently.
Is there a pop off type test for a float bowl carb? I know a full bowl should seal the valve, but if is not holding pressure, how do I know it is not half empty and calling for fuel?
I’m about ready to give up and just buy a new carb.
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If the pump bolts to the side of the block, and has a rod that is cam activated, the pump is leaking fuel into the crankcase. If electric or gravity, the needle is not holding or the float has a hole in it.I have a GX390 clone that is kicking my butt. Fed by a fuel pump, for the last couple of months it has been dumping gas into the oil. I have had the carb off a couple of times. Float bowl is pristine, float has no liquid in it, pivots freely, needle valve, seat and spring look good. Runs great at full throttle, starts okay most of the time, but fills the sump with gas at idle or while ignition is on and I’m pulling the cord. Nothing has changed with the pumpitself, it’s been on there for years working fine till recently.
Is there a pop off type test for a float bowl carb? I know a full bowl should seal the valve, but if is not holding pressure, how do I know it is not half empty and calling for fuel?
I’m about ready to give up and just buy a new carb.
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Looks like you need to get into that carb. Toothpaste on a q-tip in a drill on the needle seat, and make sure the float is not full of fuel and floats. Submerge in water and look for bubbles. Carb might just be dirty.Electric pump pulling from a belly tank. It’s a transplant into an old Deere AMT replacing the original Kawasaki engine with a cracked case.
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Wonder how bad it would have looked if you got the colors wrong.Built a ms 440 and decided to do something a little different, took me about 5 hours to get the colors just right. Fresh rebuild using oe. Parts, plastics were AM, no real steal covers were hurt in this process.lol, still waiting on some parts to come in.View attachment 322962 View attachment 322963