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What's on your bench?

Woodslasher

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I went down to the shop to grab a few parts and some boxes so I can re-home the parts when I got started on a cleaning spree. 3 hours later I'd stripped everything I needed off of this junk 235RII case and installed it on the good used one I got, cleaned off my bench, and collected all the parts and boxes I'd initially set out to get. Gee, I wonder where the air leak was?
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Agent Smith

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tickbitintn

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Almost finished up my 550 cylinder this afternoon, a little more smoothing on the lowers and I'll be done. Just a base cut, pop up and widen the exhaust.

View attachment 300007
In my opinion that looks smooth enough, all the ridges and sharp edges are gone.
I'm sure others may disagree but that should be good enough IMO.

I'm logging off soon, I have an ortho appointment in the AM. I have the rest of the day to read all the responses. LOL
 

Ronie

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In my opinion that looks smooth enough, all the ridges and sharp edges are gone.
I'm sure others may disagree but that should be good enough IMO.

I'm logging off soon, I have an ortho appointment in the AM. I have the rest of the day to read all the responses. LOL
I'm going to leave the finish the way it is, there's just a couple of spots I want to get a little smoother.

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Egg Shooter

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Wonder if you could shoehorn one of those onto a weedeater?
Im sure you could. They have the same footprint from the 23cc - 32cc. The 23 has 2.5 hp lol. No load piss rev is 19,500 rpm in the 23 and 26 cc units. Not much torque but you would have a bad arse trimmer.
 
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Egg Shooter

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Nice. Used to have some duratrax nitro cars back in the day. Now I have 2 crawlers. They're my speed these days lol
Crawlers are my favorite. I was into them before you could buy one. It was all built from pieces and parts like everyone else did. Axial had just released the first crawler a couple weeks before these pictures. About a year after I had built mine. A crawler is next. Gotta finish the two buggies first.
c2~2.JPG c6~2.JPG
 

Mastermind

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In my opinion that looks smooth enough, all the ridges and sharp edges are gone.
I'm sure others may disagree but that should be good enough IMO.

I'm logging off soon, I have an ortho appointment in the AM. I have the rest of the day to read all the responses. LOL

I agree. I like the transfer ports, and the intake to have an 80 grit finish.
 

Sagebrush33

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I agree. I like the transfer ports, and the intake to have an 80 grit finish.
That's how I used to do heads for hopped up street cars. The 80 grit kept the velocity down a bit while the porting added the volume.
On all out drag cars, a slightly finer grit like 120 was used. Would this hold true on all out race saws?
 

Mastermind

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That's how I used to do heads for hopped up street cars. The 80 grit kept the velocity down a bit while the porting added the volume.
On all out drag cars, a slightly finer grit like 120 was used. Would this hold true on all out race saws?

Good question. I'm not sure though.
 

Sagebrush33

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That's how I used to do heads for hopped up street cars. The 80 grit kept the velocity down a bit while the porting added the volume.
On all out drag cars, a slightly finer grit like 120 was used. Would this hold true on all out race saws?
@Canadian farm boy any insight on this? You have a bit of experience in both worlds.
 

Canadian farm boy

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@Canadian farm boy any insight on this? You have a bit of experience in both worlds.
I was always told that everything pre fuel can be polished and everything post fuel needs to have some texture. I believe the theory is that the textured surface causes some slight turbulence to the air and fuel flow. This helps to keep the fuel suspended in the fresh charge
 

Sagebrush33

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I was always told that everything pre fuel can be polished and everything post fuel needs to have some texture. I believe the theory is that the textured surface causes some slight turbulence to the air and fuel flow. This helps to keep the fuel suspended in the fresh charge
I learned the opposite. Get the heat out ASAP and leave a little texture to help mix the fuel and air on the intake side. Over the years I've also heard leave texture in the exhaust to promote back pressure. All in all, engines are air/heat pumps. Unless it's a diesel, I believe heat, above operating temperature, to be at a disadvantage.

I'm still learning why my old boss named his car ''Black Magic.''
 

Woodslasher

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Well, the 350 from hell is back on the bench. I wanna punch the dummy who designed the clamshell-normal cylinder hybrid. Right now I'm running in circles chasing an air leak, I think. When I got it the saw would fire right up, but it would just start screaming. I tracked the leak down to the fw side clamshell and re-sealed it. I also put in a new carb kit and a new piston, but the saw still just screams. It won't even begin to hold vacuum, but pressure only shows me I need to come up with a better system for blocking off the intake and exhaust. I thought I had a breakthrough at one point, but it turned out I'd just accidentally pushed in the decomp. :facepalm:
 

RI Chevy

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Damn Hooskies. Does it have the plastic wire tie clamp?
Just funnin.
 

tickbitintn

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It did, now it wears a 390 clamp and the updated plastic impulse/boot bit, which is another thing I hate about that saw. I miss working on pro saws. :(
For a "cheap" saw when you get all the bugs worked out they actually run quite well. (346 top end helps)
I do agree they can be a PITA to work on.

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